At North Loop’s new Dario, handmade pasta is the star

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My name is Jess, and I love pasta.

Fresh noodles and dumplings are the food I’m probably most likely to overindulge in if given the chance.

It’s so hard to find really great fresh pasta, though. Stuffed pastas must be rolled thinly, and the inside ingredients must be the right consistency — not too thick or chewy, but also not too runny. And die- or hand-cut pastas must be cooked in a flash, leaving some springiness in the center.

Pasta — good, handmade pasta — is also very labor intensive.

So when I saw Dario’s menu, with 10 fresh pasta options, I was eager to see what the new North Loop restaurant from chef Joe Rolle, formerly of Borough, Il Foro and Martina, was up to.

A few girlfriends and I had tickets to a show in downtown Minneapolis recently, so I made a reservation.

The Wittkamper Studio-designed restaurant, with its retro/modern pastel pink, teal and white accents, turned out to be the perfect spot for a ladies’ night out.

We were seated close enough to see the action in the muted pink-tiled kitchen and to peep the equipment in the glass-enclosed pasta room — used by day to mix and roll out the noodles and dumplings and by night as extra seating or space for private dining.

Good cocktails are a boon to any ladies’ night, and Stephen Rowe, who worked for a decade at the now-closed Marvel Bar, has created an excellent menu of classic and not-so-classic drinks. Many of the original creations skew toward the lower-alcohol end of the spectrum, and a few of us enjoyed the slightly sweet and complex rum-based Kelly Kapowski and the floral, delicate gin-based The Gardener’s Break.

Dario’s menu, which is made for sharing, is more than just pasta — raw dishes, vegetables and main dishes are all available. We were in a time crunch so decided to start with a few vegetables, move into pasta and sample the brick chicken, sort of as an afterthought.

Marinated beets at Dario in Minneapolis’ North Loop. (Jess Fleming / Pioneer Press)

Butternut squash scarpinocc at Dario in Minneapolis’ North Loop. (Jess Fleming / Pioneer Press)

Beef short rib agnolotti at Dario in Minneapolis’ North Loop. (Jess Fleming / Pioneer Press)

Spicy rigatoni alla vodka at Dario in Minneapolis’ North Loop. (Jess Fleming / Pioneer Press)

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The marinated beets featured larger wedges of the root vegetable draped with pretty, thin beet ribbons and topped with some dill pickle chips and little sprigs of dill. A sauce gribiche, which featured finely chopped hard-boiled egg, tied the whole thing together.

Grilled cabbage, served piled into a little hut disguising creamy, horseradish-spiked potatoes beneath, was up next, a stick-to-your-ribs, very northern European-feeling dish. And because we are good midwesterners, we followed that with the crispy potatoes, topped with creamy melted comte cheese and sweet caramelized onions. No one complained about the extra potatoes.

And the pasta! It was as wonderful and varied and delicious as I had dared hope.

Silky spaghetti spiked with briny blue crab, mild Meyer lemon and a little kick of chili. Perfectly textured rigatoni, a bright vodka sauce nestled between the pasta’s ridges, with fennel-spiked sausage providing richness. Little envelopes of agnolotti stuffed with short rib so tender and beefy that it melted on my tongue, paired with a funky hit of gorgonzola. And my favorite, scarpinocc, stuffed with sweet butternut squash, its little dimple a genius vehicle for nutty browned butter and a drizzle of balsamic vinegar.

The afterthought brick chicken was also fantastic — ultra juicy with a lovely sear and a briny, nutty, browned butter-caper sauce.

We didn’t have time for dessert, but given the outstanding quality of the rest of the menu, I can guarantee that when I return, which will be soon, I’ll make time to give it a try.

Dario

Where: 323 N. Washington Ave., Minneapolis

Contact: 612-614-2560; dariorestaurant.com

Prices: First courses and vegetables, $14-$30; pastas, $23-$29; fish and meat, $26-$62

Good to know: North Loop parking can be a challenge; ride share or public transportation is a good idea. Pastas are hand-made and cannot be made gluten-free. Reservations recommended.

Small Bites are first glances — not intended as definitive reviews — of new or changed restaurants.

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Inver Grove Heights considers moving to 4-year mayor term, but city council not fully convinced

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Inver Grove Heights is considering joining the majority of Minnesota cities by adopting a four-year mayoral term, rather than the current two-year term.

The City Council approved the first reading of the four-year term ordinance earlier this week, with all but one council member voting in favor. Before the ordinance can be adopted, it must be read and approved three separate times by the city council.

Inver Grove Heights Mayor Brenda Dietrich (Courtesy of Brenda Dietrich)

Mayor Brenda Dietrich and Councilmembers Sue Gliva, John Murphy and Tony Scales made up the ayes with Councilmember Mary T’Kach voting no.

A four-year mayoral term would match city council seats, provide more consistency for city projects, which can take years to complete, said City Administrator Kris Wilson during Monday’s presentation. A four-year term also would allow the mayor more time to settle into the role before planning for reelection.

On the other hand, with a two-year mayoral term, the majority is in the voters’ hands as every two years three of the five city council seats – mayor and two councilmembers – are up for reelection, Wilson said.

In Minnesota, 75 cities have four-year mayoral terms, according to Inver Grove Heights staff, and 27 cities have two-year terms.

Mendota Heights and West St. Paul are the only other Dakota County cities that have a two-year mayoral term, Wilson said, adding that Inver Grove Heights is the largest city in the state with a two-year term.

According to city records, a four-year mayoral term was discussed in 2010, but no action was taken. It may have been discussed informally at other times, Wilson said, but 2010 was the last time the topic was listed on a city council agenda.

Opposing council members

T’Kach expressed concern about the timeline, which, if approved, would require the ordinance to be adopted and published four weeks prior to June 4, when the election filing period closes.

Inver Grove Heights Councilmember Mary T’Kach (Courtesy of Mary T’Kach)

“It feels odd for us to be making such a big decision in the community and for the community during an election year,” T’Kach said Monday, adding that she wished it had come up last year.

Scales disagreed, saying, “As long as we hit our standard practices, our first, second and third readings without trying to squeeze them together, I don’t feel like it’s rushing.”

Murphy, who is serving as acting mayor while Dietrich is away, said Monday that he had spoken with residents about a four-year mayoral term in recent years and ”without fail, they are all supportive of a four-year term for mayor,” he said.

The city plans to inform residents about the potential change through its website, social media accounts and the spring edition of the city’s INSIGHTS newsletter, which is expected to hit mailboxes early April.

The second reading of the ordinance is scheduled for the March 18 city council meeting and the third on April 22. Both meetings will be open to the public for comment and residents are also able to submit comments to cityclerk@ighmn.gov.

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Yoán Moncada aims for a healthy 2024 after back issues led to 2 IL trips last season for Chicago White Sox 3B

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Yoán Moncada pulled a double into the right-field corner during the second inning of an April 2 game against the Houston Astros last season at Minute Maid Park.

The Chicago White Sox third baseman doubled again — this time pulling a grounder that just stayed fair down the first-base line — in the sixth inning. Batting left-handed again, the switch-hitter capped the day by going the other way with a two-run home run to left field in the ninth.

Moncada had a strong start to the season, going 8-for-18 (.444) with two homers and four RBIs in the series against the Astros as he built off his All-Tournament Team performance for Cuba during the World Baseball Classic. Then came the back issues that led to two trips to the injured list.

“During the first half of that season, it was painful, stressful,” Moncada said through an interpreter Thursday at the Boys & Girls Clubs of Chicago in Bridgeport. “I couldn’t do anything. I wanted to do stuff and help the team but I couldn’t. It was a really tough time for me.”

He was out from April 11-May 12 with lower back soreness and again June 14-July 25 with lower back inflammation.

Moncada rebounded after returning from the second IL stint, slashing .280/.323/.430 with two home runs and 12 RBIs in August and .298/.344/.560 with six home runs and 12 RBIs in September.

“Once I started getting better and stronger, I felt much better and I felt good,” Moncada said. “That was why I was able to finish the way that I did and that’s how I feel right now.”

The 28-year-old is aiming to use that late-season bounce back as a springboard for 2024.

“He feels great, the back feels great, he’s motivated,” manager Pedro Grifol said. “He’s going to get to spring training early on the 31st of January or first of February, which is a great sign and he’s going to put himself in a position to have a great year. We need Moncada.

“He’s motivated to having a full season under his belt, which is good for him.”

Moncada slashed .260/.305/.425 with 11 home runs and 40 RBIs in 2023. After appearing in 144 games in 2021, Moncada played 104 games in 2022 and 92 in 2023.

His offseason work has included strengthening his abs, back and legs to “get all that core really strong,” he said.

“The way I’m preparing myself for this coming season is to play 202 games,” Moncada said, when asked about attempting to play as close to 162 games as possible. “That’s an exaggeration, but that’s how I’m preparing myself.

“I want to be healthy. I want to be on the field every day.”

Moncada said he is motivated and excited because he’s healthy.

“That’s the only thing I want — if I’m healthy, I know I can do a lot of good things in the field,” Moncada said. “I’m excited right now to get to spring training and start working.

“I think God has saved something good for me. Hopefully we are going to see that. Hopefully I’ll be able to be healthy and really show and really display all I can do on the field.”

Moncada’s best season was in 2019, when he established career highs in several categories, including OPS (.915), doubles (34), home runs (25) and RBIs (79). He signed a five-year, $70 million extension in March 2020 — a deal in which the Sox hold an option for $25 million in 2025 with a $5 million buyout.

The solid defensive third baseman knows he’ll be fielding questions from reporters about the future.

“I would love to stay with the White Sox if they want me here,” Moncada said. “I’m very thankful for the White Sox for the opportunity they have given me after I was traded from the Red Sox (in December 2016). They’ve been treating me very well. I like the organization, I like the city, I like the fans. I would like to stay here.”

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Eagan man convicted in 2005 stranger rape of Wisconsin college student

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A jury in Wisconsin has convicted an Eagan man of raping a college student by knifepoint near a bike path in Madison nearly two decades ago.

DNA from the victim’s sexual assault kit led to the identification of Aidison Yang in 2021, according to last year’s Dane Court Circuit Court criminal complaint charging him with three counts of first-degree sexual assault by use of a dangerous weapon.

Aidison Yang (Courtesy of the Carver County Sheriff’s Office)

Jurors deliberated about three and a half hours last week before finding Yang, 42, guilty of all three counts in the October 2005 attack. Yang’s sentencing date has not been set.

“After all these years we are finally able to hold Aidison Yang accountable for this horrible crime,” Madison Police Detective Kelly Dougherty said in a statement issued by the Wisconsin Department of Justice after the verdict. She said it has been “incredibly inspiring” working with the victim.

After the DNA match, law enforcement discovered that Yang lived in Madison at the time of the attack. In recent years, he lived in Lakeville and on St. Paul’s East Side before moving to Eagan.

According to the complaint, a Madison police detective learned in September 2021 that there was a match in a national law enforcement database that linked the rape suspect’s DNA to Yang.

The complaint does not specify why Yang’s DNA was in the national database, but does mention that in 2020 he was convicted in Hennepin County of criminal vehicular operation-causing substantial bodily harm while under the influence of alcohol. As part of Yang’s sentence, he was ordered to submit a DNA sample, court records show.

He followed her on bike path

The 22-year-old woman, a University of Wisconsin-Madison graduate student, reported to police on Oct. 15, 2005, that she had been sexually assaulted by a stranger just off a bike path in the Atwood neighborhood on the city’s east side.

After Dougherty learned of the DNA match, she re-interviewed the woman in 2022. She told the detective that she left her home around 8 p.m. to walk to a coffee shop. While on the path, she noticed a man following her. He caught up with her and with a knife in his hand said, “You had better come with me,” she told the detective.

She said he pulled her off the path and over to some trees and said, “Don’t scream or I will kill you.” He put her on the ground and raped her.

She said she kept her hand on his hand that was holding the knife because she was afraid she was going to die. The man ran away with her purse.

She ran home and immediately reported the assault. Police took her to the hospital, where a sexual assault nurse examiner checked for injuries and collected evidentiary swabs from her body.

Yang lived in Madison, then Twin Cities

After the DNA match, Dougherty and other investigators began looking into where Yang was living at the time of the assault.

Dougherty learned that about six months before the attack, Yang, while living in Madison, was charged in Dane County with possession of methamphetamine and carrying a concealed weapon. He pleaded guilty to the weapons charge and was sentenced in November 2005.

An agent with the Wisconsin Department of Justice reviewed Yang’s income tax records, which showed he filed for the years 2006, 2008 and 2009-14, with a Madison address. Yang’s income tax records showed he lived in Lakeville in 2017 and in 2019, and on St. Paul’s East Side in 2018, the complaint said. His first name was also spelled “Addison” in a record.

Yang was arrested in Chanhassen on Feb. 10, 2023, a day after the charges were filed. He was booked into the Carver County jail, pending extradition to Wisconsin, which happened a month later.

In Yang’s Hennepin County case, the complaint said he was driving drunk in Brooklyn Park, ran a stop sign while speeding at 60 mph and crashed into the side of a car. The other driver sustained a broken collarbone and arm.

The complaint also said Yang was convicted of driving while impaired in Wisconsin in October 2010.

Yang has one other conviction in Minnesota, for giving a peace officer a false name after a traffic stop in Edina in 2021.

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