Bordering on Cowardice

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In an otherwise strong State of the Union address this March, President Joe Biden breathed new life into a term the immigrant rights movement has spent years pushing out of the Democratic vocabulary. He was stumbling over a sentence; right-wing Congresswoman Marjorie Taylor Greene was heckling him from the audience about a young woman in Georgia who’d allegedly been killed the month prior by a non-U.S. citizen. Apparently parroting Greene, Biden confirmed that the woman, Laken Riley, had been killed “by an illegal.” 

Backlash was swift from pro-immigrant Congress members and advocates who’ve long fought for the idea that “No human being is illegal.” (For what it’s worth, the alleged killer had reportedly been released into the country through a stopgap parole mechanism.) “The rhetoric President Biden used tonight was dangerously close to language from Donald Trump that puts a target on the backs of Latinos everywhere,” warned San Antonio Congressman Joaquin Castro.

The president went on television two days later to acknowledge he should have used a more respectful word like “undocumented,” describing such rhetorical choices as a “difference between Trump and [him].” Asked point-blank if he regretted his wording, he said yes. But—after Biden’s apparent apology was mocked by Trump and the GOP U.S. House speaker—a White House spokesperson insisted at a press briefing, “The president absolutely did not apologize.”

At best, Biden’s use of a retrograde xenophobic insult could have occasioned a sincere apology and a forceful insistence on the basic fact that undocumented immigrants are less likely to commit crimes than the native-born. But the president’s PR shop felt it more important to (unsuccessfully) avoid looking soft on unauthorized immigration. This decision was but a minor example of Biden’s overall reelection strategy of shifting right on immigration to try to neutralize his opponent’s top issue. 

The real crisis is that we are perilously close to abandoning the dream of bringing our neighbors “out of the shadows.”

It’s all a far cry from 2020, when Democrats had polarized leftward on immigration and then-candidate Biden spoke boldly of restoring “our historic role as a safe haven for refugees and asylum-seekers” and called migrants “an irrefutable source of our strength.” On taking office, Biden paused deportations and submitted to Congress a desperately needed reform proposal including increased visas and a path to legalization for the nation’s 11 million undocumented residents. But, despite campaign pledges, he never threw his weight behind the bill. Eventually, as the pandemic waned worldwide, arrivals at the U.S.-Mexico border increased, GOP fear-mongering accelerated, and polling showed the public somewhat reverting to nativist alarmism. With reelection looming, Democrats began throwing 2020 positions overboard, retreating to more hawkish views common in the party pre-Trump.

Early this year, Biden spied a political opening. He caved to a GOP congressional ploy to pair unrelated foreign aid with a border crackdown, embracing a bipartisan Senate bill over strenuous objections from Latino Democratic senators. The bill would have profoundly undermined asylum law by granting the president a convoluted new power to shut down the border, while generally raising the bar for securing asylum. Unlike previous attempts at “comprehensive immigration reform,” the measure did not even offer citizenship to the so-called Dreamers—immigrants brought as children who’ve often known no other home. “Democrats have really ceded a lot of ground to the Republican position,” one advocate told Al Jazeera in February.

To the seeming delight of Biden world, Republicans ultimately killed the bill, giving the president a talking point he’s since treated like a rented mule: It is the GOP, in fact, who won’t secure the border. As Politico reported in March, “The president’s team believes [it’s been able] to neutralize the political backlash Biden was facing and even reap some benefits in the polls.”

This cynical gambit may or may not work. It will be difficult to steal Trump’s border-crackdown thunder, but Biden probably sees a no-lose situation because pro-immigrant voters have nowhere else to go. If reelected, Trump would likely hand the immigration keys to his top nativist advisor Stephen Miller, who’s been planning what he calls “the most spectacular migration crackdown.” Meanwhile, Dems are letting robust pro-immigrant arguments go to rust and possibly undermining long-term chances for enduring reform.

Take, for example, Dallas Democratic Congressman Colin Allred, now running to unseat GOP Senator Ted Cruz. Allred has vaulted atop the border-hawk bandwagon, signing on to a misleading Republican-led House resolution in January denouncing Biden’s “open-borders policies.” Last fall, he went so far as to praise Biden’s decision to build 20 miles of noncontiguous border wall in South Texas’ Starr County, a move that the president himself described as pointless but out of his hands to stop. 

It’s sad enough for a Texas politician to promote the forced taking of Texans’ private property to build pointless bits of wall, but Allred’s move was also politically hackish. In 2018, he’d called the border wall “racist” and said his generation would “tear it down”—comments the Cruz campaign has predictably used to call out Allred’s “cowardly flip-flopping strategy.” 

Meanwhile, Democratic mayors in the North have made matters worse. Starting in 2022, Texas Governor Greg Abbott began busing migrants to out-of-state blue cities, a gambit to troll so-called sanctuary cities. Fearing local backlash, these panicked mayors have played into Abbott’s hands, with Eric Adams even claiming the arrivals would “destroy New York City.” 

There are, of course, some bright spots within the Democratic Party, including Latino Congress members from Texas’ big cities: San Antonio’s Castro, El Paso’s Veronica Escobar, Greg Casar of Austin, and Sylvia Garcia in Houston. 

But the overall debate has devolved to the point that some Dems could stand to crib a few lines from Texas Republicans of yore. Contradictory policies notwithstanding, George W. Bush described the undocumented in 2006 as “decent people who work hard, support their families, practice their faith, and lead responsible lives,” and Rick Perry said of Dreamers in 2001: “We don’t care where you come from, but where you are going, and we are going to do everything we can to help you get there.” 

Yes, Trump killed that strain of Republican politics. But Trump is also one of history’s small men. The question of human freedom of movement is enormous and will outlast this man who presently warps our nation’s moral compass. 

In 2017, thousands in Dallas joined the “Immigration Reform Mega March,” an homage to a 2006 march that drew out half a million participants. (Gus Bova)

We live in an era of mass migration fueled by war, climate change, and post-pandemic economic crisis, along with ease of international travel and communication. Long past 2024, America’s leaders will face a fundamental dilemma: Deterring migrants from seeking U.S. safety and prosperity requires measures that are cruel, expensive, and possibly illegal under international law. Outsourcing our border enforcement to Mexico, as Biden has begun attempting, may seem to work for a time but is amoral and unsustainable. Moving beyond the model of deterrence is the true challenge, and liberal leaders should be wedded to that cause. 

The federal asylum process—just one small corner of the immigration system—is indeed outdated, but the odds of Congress justly reforming it while today’s Republicans control the House are nil. And to risk gutting it without even legalizing the undocumented is ethical negligence. Our leaders need not always tail our worst instincts but may call us to our best. Any Texan, in particular, can cast propaganda aside and simply look around to see that our state is built, maintained, and improved every day by unauthorized workers. These same laborers send money back home, transforming their families’ lives, in quantities that make a laughingstock of any foreign aid program the United States even contemplates. 

The real crisis is that we are perilously close to abandoning the dream of bringing our neighbors “out of the shadows.” It is that what good steps Biden has taken on immigration—through executive action—can be immediately undone by a reelected Trump. It is that we could be demagogued into losing one of the things that makes this country, born of indelible sin, worth a damn: our fragile yet tenacious understanding that we are a nation of immigrants.

NYC Stabilized Tenants Face Another Round of Rent Hikes

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 In a swerve from precedent, the Rent Guidelines Board’s two tenant members dismissed Tuesday’s preliminary vote as a sham, casting a vote of no confidence in both the board and Mayor Eric Adams. 

Adi Talwar

Tuesday night marked the Rent Guidelines Board’s annual preliminary vote, which has historically set the goalposts for rent adjustments for stabilized tenants.

An already eventful year for tenants across New York City’s nearly 1 million rent stabilized apartments just got more raucous.

Tuesday night marked the Rent Guidelines Board’s annual preliminary vote, which has historically set the goalposts for rent adjustments for stabilized tenants, who also benefit from lease renewal rights. Renters and landlords alike will have chances to voice their concerns at public hearings in the coming weeks, ahead of a final vote on June 17. 

Gathered at LaGuardia Performing Arts Center in Long Island City, Queens, seven of the board’s nine mayoral appointees voted 5-2 in favor of rent hikes between 2 and 4.5 percent for a one-year lease and 4 to 6.5 percent for two years. Minutes earlier, its two tenant members had walked out in protest, along with most of the chanting crowd.

Board members Adán Soltren, a tenant lawyer, and Genesis Aquino, executive director of the organization Tenants and Neighbors, dismissed the process as a sham, casting a vote of no confidence in both the board and Mayor Eric Adams.

“Framing the issue as one of degrees of suffering between… owners who have negative consequences from business decisions and tenant suffering is abhorrent,” Soltren said in lengthy remarks before leaving the stage. “They are not, nor will they ever be equal, and the practice of treating the two as though they are is morally indefensible.” 

Above: Board members Adán Soltren, a tenant lawyer (left), and Genesis Aquino, executive director of the organization Tenants and Neighbors (right), walked out of the heating in protest. Photos by Adi Talwar.

Preliminary ranges and final rent increases have been relatively consistent during Adams’ first term, harkening back to the Bloomberg era. Last year saw a 3 percent increase for one year leases signed starting Oct. 1 and an unusual split for two-year leases, equivalent to a 4.4 percent hike.  

Jay Martin, executive director of the Community Housing Improvement Program (CHIP), a landlord trade group, stated Tuesday night that his members need a rent increase “near the highest part” of the range. He also bemoaned how the meeting played out, calling it an “appalling circus.” 

During former Mayor Bill de Blasio’s tenure, the board instituted the only one-year rent freezes in its history, in 2015, 2016 and 2020. Unlike de Blasio, who was explicit in calling for freezes, Adams often urges consideration of small property owners. “Everyone is dismissive of them,” he charged at an April 2 press conference. 

Following Tuesday’s vote, Adams stated that the board must strike a balance between protecting tenants and helping landlords maintain buildings, but that 6.5 percent is “far beyond what is reasonable to ask tenants to take on at this time.” His administration has defendended the board process as independent and data-driven. 

This year’s expected rent increases come on the heels of a tense state budget season, resulting in new eviction defenses for New York City tenants who don’t live in stabilized apartments. But the Good Cause Eviction law has numerous carve outs, and comes with the most significant changes to rent stabilization law since 2019. 

The deal at least doubled the Individual Apartment Improvement (IAI) cap, which limits how much stabilized landlords can increase rents to cover renovations. At a late April Rent Guidelines Board (RGB) meeting, real estate industry representatives dismissed these increases as insufficient to get empty apartments ready for market. 

“Legislators who did their own renovations were joking, ‘Maybe that gets me a new bathroom and a new kitchen.’ Forget about making things lead-safe… [or] electrical code upgrades,” said Reggie Thomas, senior vice president of government affairs at the Real Estate Board of New York, which participated in budget negotiations. 

Adi Talwar

Tenants rallying at the Rent Guidelines Board preliminary vote Tuesday night.

But tenant advocates have urged the board to take these newly-allowed rent hikes into consideration. Esteban Girón, an organizer with the Crown Heights Tenant Union, told City Limits Tuesday that the prospect of larger IAIs for vacant apartments makes it “crucial” to maintain affordable rents for existing tenants. 

Since late March, the RGB has also been reviewing a series of staff reports, aimed at assessing the economic conditions tenants and landlords are facing. 

Some landlord metrics have improved recently. For example, one study calculates their net operating income, or NOI, which is revenue after operating expenses, albeit with a one-year lag. Citywide NOI for buildings with rent stabilized units increased 10.4 percent between 2021 and 2022, after falling nearly as much the year prior. 

Landlord trade groups have dismissed the citywide NOI as misleading, noting that the biggest gains took place in Manhattan south of West 110th and East 96th streets, where NOI increased 42.3 percent following a temporary pandemic dip. In the Bronx, by contrast, NOI dropped 14 percent. Brooklyn and Queens saw modest gains. 

Joseph Condon, general counsel at CHIP, recently urged the board not to be “distracted” by the rosy citywide figure. He drilled down further to NOI data for older buildings, which he argued are in more dire straits than new rent stabilized buildings, which benefit from tax breaks. 

“If you peel out Core Manhattan, and you peel out all of the post-[19]73 regulated buildings, you’re looking at a citywide drop of around 16 percent,” he said at an April 25 board meeting.

But tenant advocates have argued that many real estate portfolios are geographically diverse, suggesting a cushion for landlords’ various pain points. Oksana Mironiva, housing policy analyst at the Community Service Society of New York (a City Limits funder) recently cited analysis from the tenant-aligned nonprofit JustFix. 

Adi Talwar

Tenant groups Marched through Queens on their way to the Rent Guidelines Board preliminary vote.

According to JustFix, 54 percent of rent stabilized buildings in Core Manhattan share owners with rent stabilized buildings in other parts of the city. “Even though Manhattan may be an island, property ownership is not,” Mironova testified on April 25. 

As for tenants’ economic conditions, the RGB found that average inflation-adjusted wages fell 6.1 percent from late 2022 to mid 2023. Residential evictions also increased nearly 200 percent in 2023, hitting 12,139—still lower than 2019, before the COVID-19 pandemic slowed housing court.  

Rent stabilized households have a lower median income than their market rate counterparts, according to the latest Housing Vacancy Survey: $60,000 in 2022, compared to $90,800. 

The survey also found that 20 percent of rent stabilized tenants are food insecure, or unable to afford either full or balanced meals at least part of the time, compared to 12 percent of market rate renters. 

In a historically tight rental market, stabilized apartments are a precious resource, according to Lucy Block, senior research and data associate at the Association for Neighborhood and Housing Development (ANHD), a member group of nonprofit developers and tenant groups. 

Her recent analysis found that over 700,000 New York City renters would need to find apartments renting for less than $1,100 to escape living with rent burden—a federal designation for spending more than 30 percent of one’s income on housing. 

Yet there are only 2,300 such apartments available, according to the HVS. Just over a quarter of the city’s rent stabilized apartments are in this most sought-after rent category, according to Block. 

“If the RGB votes to increase stabilized rents, we will lose even more of the city’s extremely limited low-rent housing stock,” she said in a written statement ahead of Tuesday’s vote. 

Paying the rent is already a challenge for Viola Bibins, a 77-year-old rent stabilized tenant from Crown Heights who attended Tuesday’s vote. “I have to decide: should I pay for my medication or should I pay my rent?” she told City Limits. “I am on a fixed income because I’m retired, and my rent isn’t that high but I still can’t afford it.” 

Adi Talwar

“I have to decide: should I pay for my medication or should I pay my rent?” said Viola Bibins, 77, a rent stabilized tenant from Crown Heights, Brooklyn.

To the extent that there is distress across rent stabilized buildings, it would be neither fair nor effective to compensate landlords with rent increases, tenant advocates have argued. Particularly when renters may not be able to pay the difference. 

In his board testimony this month, Jacob Udell, director of research and data at the University Neighborhood Housing Program, said these issues are better addressed with government subsidies like rental vouchers, and through regulatory interventions like the preservation plan set up following Signature Bank’s collapse last year. 

The RGB has a hammer, he testified earlier this month. But that “does not mean that the host of problems in the rent stabilized market is a nail.”

To reach the reporter behind this story, contact Emma@citylimits.org. To reach the editor, contact Jeanmarie@citylimits.org

Want to republish this story? Find City Limits’ reprint policy here.

Morning Report pets in April

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The Morning Report, our newsletter, signs off with photos of readers’ pets on weekdays.

In April, we featured cats, dogs … and pigs!

Sign up for this free newsletter at twincities.com/newsletters.

Monday, April 1

“Going to the vet each year for a checkup is not Archie’s idea of a good time,” Richard writes. “More like horrible. Getting him there is exhausting. Once there, he at least hunkers down with a frown.

“Here, Archie is lying low in resignation.

Archie at the vet.

“In this picture, he has an expression of resigned disbelief as his nails are trimmed.”

Archie’s nail trim.

Tuesday, April 2

“Sookie — Patrick and Karen’s rescue dog — greets her Grandpa, Chuck,” Geri writes.

Grandpa and Sookie.

Wednesday, April 3

“This is Bentley and Lincoln,” Heather writes. “They are best friends and love running off to go on adventures.”

Bentley and Lincoln.

“Bentley is a 5 yr old Shih Tzu. He loves kids and giving kisses. He has a silly personality, loves to play with toys and bury bones.

“Lincoln is a 1-year-old Springer mix. We adopted him from the Babinski Foundation. He loves to be outside and chase squirrels. He is a big goofy puppy who loves treats, running through the woods, and getting attention.

Thursday, April 4

Scout

“This is our rescue, Scout, who is now 2 years old,” Julie writes. “He was thanking his foster, Chrissy from NDLB (No Dog Left Behind). We included this in her card when she got married recently!”

Friday, April 5

Fauci

“Fauci is a Spinone Italiano, a great all around upland game hunting machine,” Kate from Mahtomedi writes. “She is also a huge goofball and epic napping companion. She was a pandemic puppy and we are so happy to have her in our lives!”

Monday, April 8 (Memorial Monday)

“This is my favorite photo from the puppyhood of Tucker the Wonder Dog, our Very Good Boy, furry family member and my constant companion for the past 15 years,” writes Nina of Chanhassen.

Tucker

“Unfortunately, Tucker developed a cancerous tumor on his liver that doubled in size in just a year, making it quite difficult for him to breathe and eat. So with the help of Dr. Rebecca from MN Pets, Tucker crossed the bridge last month in the peace and comfort of our home with his family gathered around him to send him off with snuggles, kisses and many, many tears.

“I cannot recommend MN Pets more highly to those who must make this heart-wrenching decision for their pets.”

Find out more at mnpets.com.

Tuesday, April 9

“Max enjoyed Easter very much,” Angie writes, “despite some candy goo sticking to his nose.”

Max

Wednesday, April 10

“New friends Ruby (Cocker Spaniel) and Oakley,” Edla writes. “Sitting patiently and waiting to see who will get the tennis ball first.”

Waiting for the tennis ball.

Thursday, April 11

“Puggy Sue is back at UW-Stout where her dad works,” writes her dad, Frederick. “She is working on another degree at Stout following previous stints at UW-Eau Claire, Stout and before that at Luther College. She is missing her grandma, Nana, who passed away in February.”

Puggy Sue

Friday, April 12

Recently, Mary sent us a photo of her pet pig.

Now, she’s sent us photos of her friends’ pigs. They tell us more:

Ozzie and Harriet

“This is Ozzie and Harriet (Harriet has the dark snout),” write Claudia and Colleen. “Our mother named them because they acted like an old, married couple. They are 14 years old now.

“They live in their own heated pig house, but come on the porch for breakfast, dinner and happy hour. Ozzie is a food thief and eats like a pig. Harriet eats daintily like the queen that she is.

“They are both rescues from a hoarder. Harriet had a broken leg at the time, and she couldn’t stand up. Ozzie would cover Harriet with a blanket as he was her protector. Harriet has since lost 147 pounds and is now able to walk without pain.

“They are extremely smart, clean and friendly and love attention. Ozzie likes to sleep under his plastic kiddie pool. When he stands up, he takes the tub with him on his back. He looks like he could be some alien being.

“The neighbors love them, feed them snacks, and help look after them. The kids saw the pigs get healthy and learned the importance of taking care of animals in need.”

Monday, April 15 (Memorial Monday)

“Good morning,” Ellen writes. “Here is a picture of our sweet Ruby. She was a Red Setter or officially, an Irish Setter field dog, who was the best bird dog my husband ever had. She had a quirky personality and was so sweet. She unfortunately died too soon of liver cancer. Hopefully she is pointing pheasants in bird dog heaven!”

Ruby

Tuesday, April 16

“Coco was hurled from a pickup in Texas when she was about 8-10 months old,” Jan writes. “Shattered her face bones. She was scraped off the side of the road and taken to a local pound, which scheduled her for euthanasia because of the extent of her injuries.

Coco

“Fortunately, a worker there contacted Chihuahua Rescue & Transport, which bailed her out, paid for be needed surgeries, and placed her in foster care to recover. She was brought to Wisconsin by members of Southwest Airlines’ SWATT team of flight attendants who volunteer to fly rescued dogs to their fosters and adopters.

“Di Ponzo fostered Coco in southern Wisconsin, and then flew her to the small airport in Bay City, Wis., where I picked her up.

Coco, rescued.

“Here is the SWATT team with Coco, and Coco herself, now recovered, safe, and happy.”

Wednesday, April 17

“This is a snapshot of the ongoing romance between Tink, age 2, rescue chihuahua, and Moggy, 14-year-old cat who had been awaiting to be adopted at Animal Humane Society’s Woodbury shelter,” Jan writes.

Tink and Moggy.

“From the start of their relationship, these two have adored each other. They play-box and nap together. They are the self-appointed busybodies on our block in St. Paul, surveilling foot traffic.”

Thursday, April 18

“Meet my grand dog, Sally,” John writes.

Sally

“Sally is a tea cup Yorkie, all 4.5 pounds of her. Aside from being incredibly cute, she loves to play fetch and tug of war. She also loves to steal socks fresh out of the dryer.”

Friday, April 19

Awhile ago, we told you about a family of four cats — the Carnegie sisters — who needed to find one home.

They are still waiting.

The four Carnegie sisters are still seeking one home through Feline Rescue.

While Feline Rescue continues to seek an adoptive home for the sisters, Kate King, executive director of the St. Paul nonprofit, tells us about a cat with special needs who has also been waiting … and waiting … for a home:

Cyrus is a stray cat from West St. Paul.

Cyrus

The 3-year-old male cat is a social butterfly, but would do best as an only cat. He likes chasing laser pointers, accepts head pats and loves looking out the window.

“Cyrus has been in our care for 397 days,” his foster parent wrote recently. “He’s a real love bug, but he’s got some health issues that have kept him with us for far too long!”

Those issues include a prescription urinary diet and medication for anxiety.

“He also has Feline Leukemia, which sounds scarier than it is,” his foster parent writes. “He will likely have a shorter lifespan and we are happy to provide information and education for any potential adopter who is unsure about the condition.”

To see more photos of Cyrus, watch a video or inquire about adopting him, visit felinerescue.org or click here.

Monday, April 22 (Memorial Monday)

“Our beautiful white cat, M.C. (for Mama Cat or ‘Emcee’ for her extra loud meow, as if she was announcing something) has been gone almost three years now — April 28th, 2021,” Joyce and Doug write.

M.C.

“She’d ‘adopted’ us 13 years before that; just showing up in our driveway … and after feeding her a can of tuna and a little cup of milk … she stayed! Very loving from the get go, loved roaming our property all day and enjoyed long lap petting sessions in the evenings. She gave us two litters of sweet kittens, nine total (all with loving families now) She was only ill two days before she crossed over the Rainbow Bridge and we were devastated. This picture was taken a couple days before that; capturing her sweet face in mid-lick. We miss her sooo much.”

Tuesday, April 23

Caly

“Caly, a rescued barn kitten, is now a happy house cat,” Matt writes. “She is glad she has a warm place to sleep.”

Same here.

Wednesday, April 24

Bailey and Diesel

“Bailey, the (mostly) black lab finds Diesel (Great Pyrenees/German Shepherd) is a warm comfy cushion,” Steve writes. “Though Bailey is much smaller than Diesel, she is the boss — albeit a very gentle one — and this pair is inseparable.

“Bosco is the third member of the trio and a bit more independent but a good companion of this pair.”

Bosco

 

Thursday, April 25

Lilyrose

“We adopted Lilyrose, aka Lily, last year,” Joann writes. “She was previously owned by an elderly woman who had to enter assisted living. The foster mom said she believes Lily is a Chihuahua/Pug mix. There might be some Dachshund mixed in too, because her body is so long that we buy Dachshund coats for her winter wear. She loves, loves, loves to play fetch inside and outside the house. And she adores being cuddled. A great companion for our retirement years.”

Friday, April 26

“Thank you for your pictures of the pets, I enjoy seeing them every day,” writes Toni of Prescott, Wis.

Toni, who fosters dogs, sent us a couple of photos:

“The first picture is of Fox, my foster fail Pomeranian, and his foster sister Angel,” Toni writes.

Fox and Angel

“The second picture is Angel and her sister, Hope. Angel, 9, and Hope, 11, are Shih Tzus who are so sweet! Hope is totally blind and makes her way around by following my voice and by scent. They are available through Second Chance Animal Rescue.  Hope and Angel are bonded pair, so they must be adopted together.

Angel and Hope

“By the way, Second Chance is celebrating 30 years of rescuing cats and dogs this year.”

Monday, April 29

A rescued Chihuahua named Coco — featured here earlier in April — prompted Roni to send us another dog’s story.

“Well, it’s happened again,” Roni writes. “I guess its bound to, when you foster a lot, but Coco is the exact replica of Mama Tot, now Peach, who was recently adopted from Northern Lakes Rescue.

Peach

“She was also a Texas transport, as so many are. She arrived to me very pregnant, with Papa Tot. She gave birth to Pringles and Ruffles shortly after their arrival. And just for fun, Papa Tot and the babies are attached.”

Papa Tot and puppies.

Tuesday, April 30

“Max was patiently waiting for me to reopen the screen porch,” Linda writes. “He is now a happy camper.”

Max

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How to make Chinese dumplings at home

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When it comes to Chinese comfort food, nothing beats a really good bowl of hand-pulled noodles or a steaming, silky bowl of mapo tofu. Yet our love affair with Chinese food often centers around dumplings.

Whether they’re boiled, steamed or pan-fried, it’s just so easy to eat five, six or even a dozen of the plump and juicy dough bundles stuffed with ground meat and/or vegetables. And you don’t even need to head to your favorite Chinese restaurant or order takeout to enjoy them.

With a bit of practice, most home cooks will find jiaozi fairly easy (and fun!) to make, especially if you get an assembly line going and opt for pre-made wrappers.

Because they’re shaped like ancient Chinese ingots, dumplings are often a celebratory food in China, enjoyed during holidays such as the Lunar New Year, when they symbolize wealth and prosperity for the upcoming year. But that’s not always the case. Former Pittsburgher Hannah Che, who wrote the James Beard Award-winning “The Vegan Chinese Kitchen” in 2022, grew up eating them any time the family got together.

Dumplings take quite a few forms in China, depending on the province and region, says Che. Since both parents are from northern China, her family mostly ate boiled dumplings. Dumpling-making was also very much a joint effort, with her father rolling the homemade dough wrappers, most everyone else filling and pleating them and her mom handling the cooking.

It would have been quicker and easier to use the inexpensive frozen wrappers you can find in any Asian market, and she’s quick to point out there’s no shame in going the convenience route. In fact, this is how many Chinese home cooks make dumplings.

“It’s just we always made the dough from scratch,” Che says on an early morning phone call from Dali in China’s southwestern Yunnan province, where she is working on a second cookbook that will focus on tofu.

Dumpling do’s and don’ts

Gretchen McKay places filling in her homemade dumplings before she broils them in her kitchen on Wednesday, April 3, 2024, in Avon. (Benjamin B. Braun/Pittsburgh Post-Gazette/TNS)

Dumplings from scratch are better for one simple reason: texture.

“Homemade dumplings just always have a more satisfying mouth feel,” Che says.

Also, scratch wrappers only require mixing all-purpose flour and water, then letting the dough rest for a little bit to become smooth and silky before kneading and rolling it out. “You don’t need any leavening.”

That said, she still has some tips to make rolling, stuffing and pinching homemade dumplings a little easier for beginners.

For starters, if you’re going to boil the dumplings, it’s important to use cold water when mixing the dough because it will give you a thicker skin. Otherwise, they will fall apart in boiling water. (If you’re going to pan-fry the dumplings, however, use hot water for a more delicate wrapper.)

You need to get the proportion of water to flour just right; if it’s too soft, it will fall apart under the weight of the filling. This is the one time you might consider using a scale to weigh both water and flour.

“It should be really elastic, but still stiff,” Che says.

Take a rest

Gretchen McKay pinches one of her homemade dumplings to keep the filling in before she broils it in her kitchen on Wednesday, April 3, 2024, in Avon. (Benjamin B. Braun/Pittsburgh Post-Gazette/TNS)

It’s also essential to allow the dough to rest on the counter (to relax it and make it easier to roll), and aim for consistently sized portions when you pinch or cut the dough after rolling or spinning it into ropes.

Rolling the dough between two pieces of parchment paper eases the process. You also might consider using a tortilla press if you’ve got one handy — especially if you’re intimidated by the thought of all that rolling.

“It’s a definite time saver!” she says.

The wrappers don’t have to be a perfect circle, just roundish.

When it comes to preparing a meat filling, combinations are endless, but Che says it’s important to add in some chives, green onions or chopped cabbage “so there is something juicy (but not watery) in there besides the meat.”

If you’d rather go vegetarian, you need similar aromatics along with “something meaty” like tofu or tofu skin to give the dumpling some heft.

“You can also include vermicelli or glass noodles because you can chop it up really nice, and it adds this richness and texture to the filling that is really satisfying,” she says.

Just be sure to squeeze a vegetarian filling to remove any excess water. And you’ll also want to go heavier on the salt than you would ordinarily on both varieties because the dough wrapper will subdue the seasonings.

Mixing and stuffing

Gretchen McKay mixes homemade dumpling filling in her kitchen on Wednesday, April 3, 2024, in Avon. (Benjamin B. Braun/Pittsburgh Post-Gazette/TNS)

Another time-saver: Use a food processor instead of mixing all the ingredients by hand.

“It really saves a lot of time, and you want something pasty,” says Che.

Now you’re ready to stuff and pleat the bundles.

Since the primary goal is to keep the filling inside, and elaborate pinches take a lot of practice, settle for a basic half-moon shape unless you really want to make it look pretty. This is especially true if you’re simply going to boil them, says Che. Fancy edges are more for steamed dumplings served for dim sum, where the presentation is more refined.

Make sure the finished dumplings are flat on the bottom. It makes them easier to pick up with a pair of chopsticks.

Che’s final words of advice: Find a partner or, even better, several.

“Dumpling making is definitely more enjoyable when it’s a communal activity,” she says.

All those bodies working in unison, in fact, is what makes dumplings a celebration food in Chinese culture.

“It takes so long, you might as well have lots of hands,” she says, laughing.

Homemade jiaozi (dumplings)

This dough comes together, rolls out easily and can be used regardless of filling or the cooking method. Since I was making them by myself, I halved the recipe for a smaller batch of about 50 dumplings stuffed with a classic cabbage-and-pork filling.

If you’re going to freeze the dumplings, place them in a single layer on a cookie sheet and freeze until hard before storing in a plastic bag.

For an easy dipping sauce, stir together 2 tablespoons of black vinegar, 2 tablespoons of soy sauce, a pinch of sugar and a heaping teaspoon (or more) of chili crisp, chili oil or sriracha.

INGREDIENTS

For dough:

4 cups (560 grams) all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
3/4 teaspoon salt
1 cup plus 3 tablespoons (280 grams) cold water

For filling:

1 pound ground pork
1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger root
4 cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons thinly sliced green onion
4 tablespoons soy sauce
3 tablespoons sesame oil
1 cup finely chopped Chinese cabbage

DIRECTIONS

Prepare dough. Put flour in a large bowl and add all the water. Mix together with a pair of chopsticks until all the flakes come together in a shaggy ball. Start kneading dough with your hands and incorporate any remaining flour. Let rest 5 minutes, then knead again until it is taut, smooth and firm, about 7 minutes.
Cover with a tea towel and allow dough to rest for 15 minutes. Dough should feel slightly tacky, but not damp.
While dough is resting, prepare filling. In a large bowl, combine pork, ginger, garlic, green onion, soy sauce, sesame oil and cabbage. Stir until well mixed.
Once rested, divide dough in half. Form one portion into a ball, poke a hole in the center and shape like a doughnut. Lift dough so gravity causes the bottom to stretch and gently shape with your hands as it grows skinnier, forming an O-shaped rope.
When the rope is 3/4 inch in diameter, break doughnut into a long rope and tear off 3/4 -inch pieces with a sharp, quick snap of your wrist. (They should weigh about 10 grams.) You can also use a knife or pastry scraper. Dust pieces with flour and repeat with remaining dough.
Roll each piece into a small ball, then flatten it between palms to create a disc resembling a wafer cookie. Press thumb into dough to create a “belly” in the center.
Roll dough ball into a circle about 3 inches in diameter. (The edges should be thinner than the center.) Don’t worry if it’s not perfect; it only needs to be roundish. The key is to keep size consistent so dumplings cook consistently.
Place 2 teaspoons of filling onto each dumpling round. If you don’t want to pleat the dumplings, the easiest way to seal them is to fold the wrapper over the filling into a half-moon shape. Match the edges together and press as if you were sealing an envelope. There is no need to seal homemade wrappers with water. (There is enough moisture in the dough to seal.)
Hold sealed edge of dumpling between fingers, press bottom belly of the dumpling into a board so it stands up. Place on baking sheet lined with parchment paper and repeat with remaining dumplings.
To boil: Bring 4 quarts water to a boil. Add 10-12 dumplings and gently stir. When water returns to a boil, add 1 cup of cold water and bring water back to a boil. Dumplings are done when they are puffed up and floating on the surface, about 5 minutes. Remove from pot to plate with a large slotted spoon or strainer.
To steam: Line steamer basket with steamer paper and place prepared dumplings in a single layer in the basket, with 1 inch between each. Place basket on top of pot and steam, covered, for 8-10 minutes, or until wrappers puff up. (Meat fillings will take longer.)
To pan-fry: Preheat a 9-inch skillet over medium heat for 1 minute. Add enough vegetable oil to coat bottom surface, then carefully arrange dumplings in a single layer, flat side down. Add 1/2 cup water to skillet and cover immediately. Cook for 7-9 minutes, until water has evaporated and bottoms of dumplings are golden brown.

Makes about 48 dumplings.

— adapted from “The Vegan Chinese Kitchen” by Hannah Che (Clarkson Potter, $35)

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