4 epic waterfall road trip itineraries in Colorado

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TLC famously said don’t go chasing waterfalls. But during the Colorado summer, there are few more fun things to do than hop in the car, hit the trail and bask in the spray of cascading snowmelt.

We designed four different road trip routes that start in Denver and take drivers to some of the state’s best waterfalls. They vary in distance and region, so you can choose one that fits your schedule and destination preferences.

The waterfalls on these itineraries are just as variable. Some can be viewed from easily accessible overlook areas and short, paved paths, while others require a moderate or potentially arduous hike to view the falls. By now, most trails should be melted, but it’s worth doing extra research to ensure you’re well-equipped for each respective environment.

Lastly, remember these are just suggestions. The perfect waterfall road trip isn’t defined by how many Instagram-worthy destinations you check off a list, but rather the memories you make along the way.

So start your engines, the waterfalls are waiting.

Route 1: The south loop

Estimated drive distance: 334 miles

Travelers looking to stay relatively close to the Front Range have waterfall options before they even stray from I-25. Start this journey at The Broadmoor Seven Falls in Colorado Springs, a storied and well-developed tourist attraction that takes you to multiple waterfalls in less than a mile’s walk. (Requires an entry fee; $13-$19)

Thereafter, hop in the car and head west to the Buena Vista area where there are waterfalls aplenty. Agnes Vaille Falls Trail in Nathrop, Colo. is one of the most accessible requiring a short out-and-back hike with about 500 feet of elevation gain. Another popular option nearby is Browns Creek Falls, though the hike to get there is much longer.

Enjoy a scenic drive north before stopping at Staunton State Park near Conifer for a lengthy trek to Elk Falls. Thanks to a new parking lot, the hike has been shortened to 8 miles from 12 miles, and our resident outdoorsman said the falls are worth every step.

The last stop on this road trip is just a short drive to Conifer where you can see Maxwell Falls by hiking a roughly 4-mile loop before heading back to Denver.

Route 2: The extended south loop

Estimated drive distance: 650 miles

If you have a few extra days, you can make a larger loop by starting with The Broadmoor Seven Falls and then heading south to hit Zapata Falls near Alamosa, billed as a rocky oasis surrounded by desert.

From there, venture to North Clear Creek Falls near Creede, which cascades more than 100 feet down canyon cliffs. This one doesn’t require much of a hike, as there is an observation point that’s accessible by car.

To make a loop, swing through Lake City. If you have enough time and the right kind of vehicle, you could traverse Engineer Pass, which includes several waterfalls. Otherwise, hit Gunnison and then head east toward Agnes Vaille Waterfall in Nathrop and back to Elk Falls in Staunton State Park or Maxwell Falls in Evergreen, or both.

Route 3: I-70 and north loop

Estimated drive distance: 523 miles

I-70 may be one of Colorado’s busiest highways, but it’s also an apt thoroughfare for waterfall viewing. Drivers starting in Denver could stop as soon as Idaho Springs, park and walk a paved path to see the Charlie Tayler Water Wheel flanked by a waterfall up close.

Continue driving to Dillon to hit the Snake River Falls, located on a 6.3-mile out-and-back trail. That may sound long, but there’s very little elevation gain, so the trail is accessible to many skill levels.

Rifle Falls State Park is so named for its main attraction. The falls are easily accessible with a short walk from the parking lot. The park also features limestone caves and a hatchery. (Tiney Ricciardi, The Denver Post)

Further west, there’s Booth Falls in Vail. The trailhead is close to the highway, though seeing the falls requires a steep out-and-back hike over the course of 4 miles. Next, you could snag a highly coveted reservation ($12 per person) to hike to the iconic Hanging Lake in Glenwood Springs; however, reservations are few and far between this year due to a reconstruction project that seeks to mitigate the damage from wildfires that ravaged the area in 2021.

The next stop on this itinerary is Rifle Falls State Park where the falls are visible with just a short walk from the parking lot. It’s worth hiking around the falls to see limestone caves and a hatchery. There are additional trails near the falls for those looking to add a few more miles to the excursion.

After Rifle, prepare to swing north for a scenic drive that takes you to Fish Creek Falls in Steamboat Springs. The lower falls overlook point is a quick, quarter-mile walk from where the parking area, while a trek to the upper falls is a longer and more moderate adventure.

On your way back southeast, go by the YMCA Snow Mountain Ranch in Granby and hike the lush, 2.2-mile Waterfall Trail, which requires a day pass to access ($29 for adults, $14 for children, free for YMCA members). On your way home, take Berthoud Pass and pull off at the Cascades to enjoy the scenery before jumping back on I-70 and heading east to Denver.

Route 4: A statewide tour

Estimated drive distance: 1,015 miles

If you want to see Colorado’s largest, free-standing waterfall, you need to visit Telluride, so why not make a statewide waterfall tour out of the journey? Our suggested route combines the best of the aforementioned loops and could go in either direction.

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To start with a scenic drive, head southwest out of Denver on U.S. Highway 285 to Maxwell Falls in Conifer first, with the option to hit Elk Falls in Staunton State Park next. Trek far south to Zapata Falls near Alamosa and hit North Clear Creek Falls while in the area.

Next, the route swings through Pagosa Springs, Durango and Cortez – all destinations in their own right – on your way to Telluride’s Bridal Veil Falls, a stunning 365-foot waterfall accessible by an equally stunning hike. Since you’re there, consider checking out Bear Creek Falls as well.

Leaving Telluride, head north and stop off in Ouray, home to several, easily accessible waterfalls such as Cascade Falls and Box Cañon Falls Park (entry $5-$7 per person). Take US-550 north until you hit I-70 in Grand Junction and head east with detours to Rifle Falls State Park, Booth Falls in Vail, and Snake River Falls in Dillon.

Lakeville man charged with killing pregnant sister, dismembering body

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A 23-year-old is charged with killing his pregnant sister at his Lakeville home and dismembering her body.

Jack Joseph Ball faces two counts of second-degree murder for Thursday’s deaths of 30-year-old Bethany Ann Israel and her unborn child, who was four months along, the charges say.

Ball was arrested late Thursday in Rosemount, about five miles northeast of the homicide scene, and had a self-inflicted knife wound across his throat. He’s been at Region’s Hospital since.

Ball appeared in Dakota County District Court through video conferencing from Regions. Judge Bryce Ehrman set bail at $2 million without conditions, or $1 million with conditions. After Ball is medically cleared, he will be booked into the Dakota County Jail.

According to the criminal complaint and Lakeville police:

Israel’s mother called 911 just after 11 p.m. and reported that she believed her daughter had been killed inside a home in the 17000 block of Encina Path.

When officers arrived, the mother said Israel went to the home around 6 p.m. that night to have dinner with her brother, who was identified as Ball.

She said family had not heard from Israel and were concerned and so she drove to the home to check on her. She said when she arrived, Ball “tore out of the house.” She went inside, saw a large amount of blood and called 911.

Officers entered the home and saw a pool of blood on the kitchen floor and blood under the sink and on cabinets. They saw a saw, hatchet and large knives, all of which were covered in blood.

They saw a knife on the living room floor near the staircase that led to the second level. “In continuing their search, they located several dismembered body parts believed to be those of (Israel),” the complaint says.

Israel’s mother told police that she believed Ball may have gone to a cemetery in Rosemount because relatives were buried there. Rosemount and Apple Valley police officers searched for Ball.

Police received a 911 call from a Rosemount homeowner who reported that a male was seen on their front door Ring camera placing what appeared to be a body part on the front step. Officers arrived and confirmed it was a body part, believed to be that of Israel.

Officers found Ball near a shed in the backyard of the home where his car was parked. He had blood on his head, shirt, arms, legs and pants, and a knife wound across his throat.

Despite the injury, the complaint notes, “(Ball) was able to communicate with officers and accurately told them the date, time and name of the current president.”

Police searched the area and found several dismembered body parts they believed to be those of Israel.

Lakeville police investigators learned from Israel’s family that she was pregnant with her first child.

At the crime scene, investigators found journals and other handwritten paperwork belonging to Ball. Ball wrote that he was angry his sister was pregnant and “no longer innocent.”

An autopsy by the Hennepin County Medical Examiner’s Office showed she died from complex homicidal violence, and that she was between 17 and 18 weeks pregnant.

“The allegations in this case are deeply disturbing and horrific — words can’t describe what our law enforcement partners encountered during the investigation,” Dakota County Attorney Kathy Keena said in a Tuesday statement. “My office will work hard to ensure the victims receive justice and will provide the necessary support for the victims’ family.”

Ball’s next court appearance is scheduled for June 10.

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New information about the mystery of Janet Halverson, book design icon, surfaces

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It was a mystery.

That’s what we were left with when I last wrote about Janet Halverson, the creator of iconic book covers from the 1950s to the 1990s, including Joan Didion’s “Play It As It Lays,” Maya Angelou’s “I Know Why the Caged Bird Sings” and Jack Kerouac’s “Big Sur.”

Despite creating indelible designs for classic books, Halverson herself is largely unknown and unheralded. And that shouldn’t be.

That’s what Michael Russem, book designer and owner of Katherine Small Gallery near Boston, thought. So after years of tracking down everything he could about Halverson and her work, Russem mounted an exhibit of her designs.

As Russem, who’s also a friend, told me earlier this year, he’d been shocked at how little information there was.

“There’s nothing about her anywhere. There are all sorts of magazine articles about these other guys, but nothing about her,” he’d said then. “Graphic designers … all recognize her work and recognize it as being good. But she just went unnoticed, which is true of all the women of her generation. There are no magazine articles about any of them.”

Even after years of searching, he’d come up empty. Then something changed.

“I got an email not long after your article came out from one of Janet’s nieces,” Russem told me this week, adding that Halverson’s niece Susan lives a little more than 10 miles away from him. “She’d found your piece online.”

“That is something I never expected to happen,” says Russem about connecting with a family member so near. “Somehow we caught her at just the right time.”

Book covers from “Janet Halverson: An Introduction.” (Courtesy of Katherine Small Gallery)

Halverson’s niece told him that the designer had died in early 2018, having spent the last few years of her life battling Alzheimer’s disease. Russem invited Susan and her husband to come see what he’d collected.

“They came to the store. Unfortunately, the show had just closed. So we didn’t get to look at the show, but I pulled out some of the books and we talked about them … Janet was Susan’s aunt, not ‘a famous graphic designer,’ so I learned about her as a person, not necessarily what she thought about design,” he says.

I asked Russem how they’d described Halverson. She could be challenging in certain circumstances, he was told, but she could also be a charmer.

“She was smart and funny. She skipped grades in school, which explains how she graduated from college at age 19 – that was something I’d always found weird. She hung out with artists and writers and she lived the life of an artist. And then when she was no longer designing,” he told me. “She switched to painting.”

Was there anything he learned about her work? Apparently, Russem says, Halverson loathed her design for the ’70s blockbuster novel “The Thorn Birds” – the publisher had insisted on a naturalistic illustration – and never wanted to see it again.

Halverson’s niece remembered seeing her aunt’s designs in bookstores as a child. How did she and her husband respond to an entire exhibit devoted to the work?

“They were kind of surprised by all this, even though they had known from googling her that people were interested,” says Russem, who then poses his own question. “Why were people interested? There was just something special about her work – and then to know this work was made by a woman at a time when women weren’t getting any attention made her story even more special.”

Book covers from “Janet Halverson: An Introduction.” (Courtesy of Katherine Small Gallery)

Despite the belief that Halverson’s materials, papers and letters did not survive, it’s possible there will be more to unravel, more to learn. A library sciences student has already reached out to Russem about Halverson’s work, he says.

And for Russem, connecting with Halverson’s family was a powerful experience on its own, whatever comes next.

“Oh my gosh, I was ecstatic, because I’d hoped that this would provide all the missing answers,” says Russem. “It didn’t, which I’m almost glad for because then it would mean this was all done and over.”

See more of Russem’s collection of Halverson’s designs at The People’s Graphic Design Archive or visit Katherine Small Gallery.

Jenny Erpenbeck, International Booker Prize winner, in Southern California

Writer Jenny Erpenbeck signs books at the Wende Museum in Culver City on May 18, 2024. (Photo by Erik Pedersen/SCNG)

This week, the writer Jenny Erpenbeck won the International Booker Prize for her novel, “Kairos.” Translator Michael Hofmann shares the prize with her.

Just a few days prior, I ventured out to the Wende Museum in Culver City to see Erpenbeck in conversation with Louise Steinman. It was a blustery day and a community event in the park nearby added to the festivities (and the dearth of parking), but it was a pleasure to return to the unusual museum, which is a “art museum, cultural center, and archive of the Cold War.”

Held outside, the discussion was a little hard to hear in some spots, but it was being recorded (I reached out to the museum to find out if it would be made available to the public but hadn’t heard back as I wrote this). Erpenbeck, as she began to read from “Kairos,” joked that Southern California was good for her: “I don’t need my glasses. I become younger here.”

Afterward, I was able to chat with the author for a few minutes as the book signing got underway, mentioning that I’d been introduced to her work by Jean Gillingwators who runs Blackbird Press in Upland and who has great, eclectic taste in books (so I may have picked up a copy for her along with my own from Village Well, which was the event vendor).

And in keeping with the event’s small world feeling, I also ran into Laura Silverstein and Tom Nissley of the excellent Phinney Books, one of my favorite bookstores in Seattle, who were visiting. (Tom is another Backlisted podcast fan, too.) They were with Krank Press printer Elinor Nissley and jack-of-all-cool-trades Alex MacInnis who made a series of audio programs called Valley of Smoke that I really liked. They’re an accomplished bunch – google Tom’s “Jeopardy” run, for example – but also friendly folks. It made the day even better.

Why am I sharing all this? Possibly as a suggestion that it can be a good idea to go to an in-person author reading and pick up a signed book or three. Or that Southern California had the International Man Booker Prize winner in our midst, and it was pretty terrific.

Julia Hannafin likes the covers of old paperback novels

Julia Hannafin is the author of “Cascade.” (Courtesy of Great Place Books)

Julia Hannafin is the author of the novel “Cascade,” published in April by independent press Great Place Books. They have worked as a staff writer on Showtime’s “The L Word: Generation Q” and as an assistant to screenwriter Eric Roth while he was writing the script for Denis Villeneuve’s “Dune.” 

Q: How do you decide what to read next?

A mix of friends’ recommendations, Twitter, and following the syllabi of the online classes I’ve taken after college. Rabbit holes of writers I admire.

Q: Do you remember the first book that made an impact on you?

I was a big reader as a kid and don’t remember the first. But I loved Gabrielle Zevin’s “Elsewhere” and her vision of an afterlife. I read the Tamora Pierce series on Alanna’s journey to becoming a knight cover to cover. And my middle school English teacher made us memorize poems and perform them, which introduced me to e.e. cummings, who showed me I could do whatever I wanted with nouns and verbs.

Q: What’s something – a fact, a bit of dialogue or something else – that stayed with you from a recent reading?

I’m thinking about what Hanif Abdurraqib said in a recent interview, how in a desire to love someone in a big way, we can rush to love the imagined person, not the actual. Also, from Maya Binyam’s “Hangman”: “I tried to go home — home was inside of me.” And from Annie Proulx’s “Brokeback Mountain,” “If you can’t fix it you got a stand it. … I been looking at people on the street. This happen a other people? What the hell do they do?”

Q: Do you have any favorite book covers?

I love small, ‘70s and ‘80s style paperbacks — graphic and bright and simple. I also love the Clarice Lispector series of books where her portrait comes together in four parts.

Q: Do you have a favorite book or books?

“Things We Lost in The Fire” by Mariana Enríquez, “Jesus’ Son” by Denis Johnson, “The Parable of the Sower” by Octavia Butler, “To The Lighthouse” by Virginia Woolf.

Q: Which books do you plan, or hope, to read next?

José Saramago’s “Blindness.”

Q: What’s something about your book that no one knows?

I think part of my writing this book was an attempt to understand my mom Dawn better, whose father, my grandfather, died from a heart attack and the disease of alcoholism. She was pregnant with me when he died.

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Hari Kunzru’s new novel, “Blue Ruin” largely takes place on an estate in upstate New York during the 2020 lockdown. (Photo credit Clayton Cubitt / Courtesy of Knopf)

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Amy Tan, the critically acclaimed author of “The Joy Luck Club” and other works, will discuss her new book “The Backyard Bird Chronicles” at two Southern California venues on May 20 and 21. (Photo by Kim Newmoney/Cover image courtesy Knopf)

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Check out the next event with Alex Espinoza and Mike Madrid

June 21 at 5 p.m. Sign up for free now.

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Have you read anything you’d like to share with other readers? Email epedersen@scng.com with “ERIK’S BOOK PAGES” in the subject line and I may include your comments in an upcoming newsletter.

And if you enjoy this free newsletter, please consider sharing it with someone who likes books or getting a digital subscription to support local coverage.

Thanks, as always, for reading.

Column: Cannes we not? This year’s film festival left a sour taste

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Each year, the Cannes Film Festival offers an early glimpse of some of the most ambitious filmmaking about to hit the market, with a forward-facing emphasis on the art rather than the commerce of cinema. (Make no mistake, behind the scenes the latter is a key element of the festival as well.) But something about this year’s fest, which wrapped Saturday, left a sour taste. Filmmakers seemed disconnected from reality. The concerns of festival workers about unfair labor conditions were barely covered by U.S. journalists. And the self-congratulatory way the celebrity industrial complex kept chugging along as if nothing was amiss in the world felt … amiss.

At least that’s how it played out for me, taking it all in Stateside. Apparently many of the films are quite good. I won’t be writing about that here because I haven’t seen them yet. What I can comment on is the vibe and a general sense of cluelessness emanating from the festival this time out.

Writing for the Hollywood newsletter The Ankler, Claire Atkinson found that nearly everyone she spoke to “at the rooftop parties, in the street, in the see-and-be-seen hotel lobbies or even over the phone, says the same thing: This is the year that excitement about movies has returned.”

That may be wishful thinking. It was business as usual at the star-studded press conferences and red carpet events. But “the movies” as we know them are undergoing an existential crisis. What kind of theatrical life is any film destined to have? Director Sean Baker echoed this concern when he picked up the top prize Palme d’Or for his romantic comedy “Anora.” The world, he said, “has to be reminded that watching a film at home, while scrolling through your phone and checking emails and half-paying attention is just not the way, although some tech companies would like us to think so. Watching a film with others in a movie theater is one of the great communal experiences.”

Director Sean Baker poses with the trophy during a photocall after he won the Palme d’Or for the film “Anora” during the closing ceremony at the 77th annual Cannes Film Festival in Cannes, France, on May 25, 2024. (Sameer Al-Doumy/AFP/Getty Images/TNS)

Alas, box office results have been telling a different story. The walls are crumbling down around the industry, but the parties on yachts continued unabated and the pro forma standing ovations following screenings were dutifully timed and reported by journalists, as if this information meant something.

A primary concern of the Hollywood strikes last year was the threat of AI, not that you’d know it at Cannes, where a producer was on hand with a “sizzle reel of AI-translated trailers of international films,” according to the Hollywood Reporter, noting the tech is a “chance for hit international films to cheaply produce a high-quality English-language dub that will make them more attractive for the global market.” That’s bad news for actors who make a living dubbing foreign films. It gets worse. Also being shopped was a biopic about Vladimir Putin that uses AI to re-skin an actor with Putin’s face, creating a deep fake. The film’s Polish director Patryk Vega, also known as Besaleel, told the Hollywood Reporter that he predicts “film and TV productions will eventually employ only leading and perhaps supporting actors, while the entire world of background and minor characters will be created digitally.” Perhaps in the coming years, Cannes will simply introduce a new award category called the AI d’Or.

Let’s turn to filmmakers who are still doing it the old fashioned way. Francis Ford Coppola brought his $120 million, years-in-the-making allegory of our times “Megalopolis” to Cannes in the hopes of finding a buyer. At his press conference he noted, “It’s not people who become politicians who are the answer (to our nation’s problems) but the artists of America.” A lofty statement. But if he genuinely believes it, who does he think will fund and distribute films that challenge and critique the very systems studios actually benefit from? (Coppola is an outlier who is rich enough to self-fund his latest movie.)

Here’s what was conspicuously missing from much of the coverage around Coppola: Only days earlier, a report emerged that the filmmaker behind “The Godfather” and “Apocalypse Now” had allegedly behaved inappropriately during the filming of some scenes for “Megalopolis.” According to The Guardian: “Coppola came on to the set and tried to kiss some of the topless and scantily clad female extras. He apparently claimed he was ‘trying to get them in the mood.’”

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These accusations were seemingly a non-issue at Cannes. Perhaps that’s fitting. One of Coppola’s stars who walked the red carpet was Shia LaBeouf, who is being sued by former girlfriend FKA Twigs. The civil case, which is pending, alleges “‘relentless’ abuse by the actor, including claims that he strangled her, knowingly infected her with a sexually transmitted disease and threatened to crash a car they were both in.” Producers were also at Cannes pre-selling a crime drama to star LaBeouf.

Other producers were selling an action-thriller starring James Franco. Two years ago, he settled a class action lawsuit brought by former acting students alleging they were sexually exploited by him. The presence of both LaBeouf and Franco prompted Variety to ask: “Is anyone really canceled in Cannes?” The Ankler’s Atkinson quoted a culture editor at at French TV channel who said 75% of the films at this year’s fest have a female protagonist “seeking revenge, fighting back, finding her place.” How does that square with Cannes welcoming, with open arms, men who put real women in those kinds of circumstances?

Meanwhile, Cate Blanchett was at the fest promoting a dark comedy called “Rumours,” about world leaders who find themselves lost in the woods, literally. Sitting for an interview, she talked about the persistent lack of women working behind the camera: “There’s 50 people on set and there’s three women. It’s like, when is this going to deeply, profoundly shift?” Her concern rings hollow: Blanchett is an A-list talent who is likely key in securing financing — if she believes things need to change, she could start by leveraging her own clout.

Cate Blanchett at the 77th annual Cannes Film Festival. (Andreas Rentz/Getty Images)

Even the red carpet — heavily photographed for its supposed glamour — took on a nasty tinge this year. Singer Kelly Rowland attended a premiere and was rudely hustled up the steps by an usher who kept her arm extended behind Rowland as a barrier, as if she were a bouncer escorting a rowdy patron off the premises. Afterwards, Rowland said: “There were other women that attended that carpet who did not quite look like me and they didn’t get scolded or pushed off or told to get off.” The same usher was subsequently filmed being aggressive with at least three other women, going so far as to physically accost one of them.

Kelly Rowland arrives for the screening of the film “Marcello Mio” at the 77th annual Cannes Film Festival in Cannes, France, on May 21, 2024. (Antonin Thuillier/AFP/Getty Images/TNS)

The fest has long cultivated a culture of elitism and exclusion, as Deadline critic Valerie Complex put it, writing about her experiences a couple years ago as one of the few Black writers in attendance. The microaggressions, she said, were constant: “I sat down in a reserved row, and three different seat ushers came over to my seat to check my ticket to make sure I was in the proper place. They weren’t checking anyone else’s tickets, just mine.”

Let’s wrap it up on a positive note, because there was one bright spot at the fest this year: Yet another dog to steal everyone’s heart. Last year’s Palm Dog winner (a real award) was Messi, the dog in “Anatomy of a Fall.” This year the honor went to a mixed breed named Kodi, who appears in the Swiss-French film “Dog on Trial,” a courtroom drama about a lawyer who takes on a dog — who has bitten three people — as a client. The story is apparently loosely based on a real case in France.

If Cannes is going to the dogs, at least there are actual dogs around to lighten the mood.

Nina Metz is a Tribune critic