5 quick chicken recipes to cook again and again

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A wild, groundbreaking statement: I love chicken. I love how readily available and relatively inexpensive it is. I love chicken breasts; I love chicken thighs; I love chicken wings. I often think about what Fuchsia Dunlop wrote in her cookbook “The Food of Sichuan.” “The chicken has a place at the heart of Chinese gastronomy: Not only is its meat enjoyed in countless dishes,” she writes, “but its natural juices are thought to possess the very essence of flavor.” The very essence of flavor! And chicken plays so nicely with other flavors, textures and aromas across countless cuisines. Three cheers for chicken!

So this lineup of weeknight-friendly recipes includes five New York Times Cooking chicken recipes that I cook again and again. Several are made in one pan, most should be eaten with rice, and all are fantastic.

1. Sheet-Pan Paprika Chicken With Tomatoes and Parmesan

Sheet-pan paprika chicken with tomatoes and Parmesan. When you don’t have Parmesan, serve this chicken with an artsy swoop of plain yogurt or labne. Food styled by Eugene Jho. (Christopher Testani/The New York Times)

This deeply savory, weeknight-friendly sheet-pan chicken is worth buying a new jar of sweet paprika for, especially if you can’t remember when you got the one in your spice drawer (for those Fourth of July deviled eggs several summers ago?).The fresher the spices, the more intensely flavorful the dish. This one is as pretty as it is complex, with a mix of colorful cherry tomatoes and peppers that soften and absorb all the chicken juices as they roast. Serve it with something to catch the saucy tomatoes: Crusty bread, polenta or couscous all work well.

By Melissa Clark

Yield: 4 servings

Total time: 45 minutes

INGREDIENTS

3 pounds bone-in, skin-on chicken parts (breasts, drumsticks, thighs or a mix)
Kosher salt
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
1 1/2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar, plus more for serving
2 garlic cloves, finely grated
1 tablespoon sweet paprika
1 teaspoon Espelette pepper or smoked hot paprika (pimentón)
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 pint cherry tomatoes (preferably different colors), halved
1 poblano chile or 1 small green bell pepper, thinly sliced
1 cup thinly sliced sweet bell peppers (red, yellow or orange)
1/3 cup grated Parmesan
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley, for serving
Freshly ground black pepper

DIRECTIONS

Heat oven to 425 degrees. Season chicken all over with salt, and place it on a rimmed baking sheet.
In a small bowl, stir together olive oil, vinegar, garlic, paprika, Espelette and oregano. Pour over chicken, tossing to coat.
Add tomatoes, poblano and sweet peppers to baking sheet, spread vegetables around the chicken. Season vegetables lightly with salt and drizzle with a little more olive oil. Sprinkle Parmesan all over chicken and vegetables.
Roast until chicken is golden, crisp and cooked through, 25 to 35 minutes. Stir the vegetables halfway through cooking but don’t disturb the chicken. If white meat is done before dark meat, remove it as it finishes cooking.
Transfer chicken to plates. Stir vegetables around in pan, scraping up all the delicious browned bits from the bottom and sides of pan, and stir in the parsley and black pepper to taste. Taste and add salt if needed, and a drizzle of vinegar if you like. Spoon vegetables over the chicken to serve.

2. Panang Curry

Rich with coconut milk and crushed peanuts, panang curry, also known as phanaeng or panaeng curry, is subtly spiced with coriander and cumin. This version is made with chicken, but you’ll often find it made with beef and sometimes prawns. Panang curry is sometimes mistakenly linked to Penang, a Malaysian island, but it actually originated in Thailand. According to Pim Techamuanvivit, chef and owner of Nari and Kin Khao restaurants in San Francisco, and executive chef of Nahm Bangkok in Bangkok, it’s important to use thick coconut milk for the creamiest results, and be sure to break the sauce by simmering until a layer of bright red oil shimmers on top. Purchase panang curry paste online or at an Asian market and add crushed peanuts to it if it doesn’t include them (not all of them do), or prepare your own paste, as is done here.

By Panang Curry

Yield: 4 servings

Total time: 35 minutes

INGREDIENTS

For the panang curry paste:

1/2 teaspoon coriander seeds
1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds
1/4 cup/1 ounce dry-roasted, unsalted peanuts
2 to 4 tablespoons red curry paste, to taste (see Tip below)

For the curry:

1 pound boneless, skinless chicken breasts or thighs
2 teaspoons fish sauce, plus more as needed
1 (13.5-ounce) can full-fat coconut milk (do not shake)
8 makrut lime leaves, deveined, 6 torn and 2 thinly sliced, or 1 teaspoon grated lime zest, for serving
1 1/2 teaspoons palm, granulated or brown sugar, plus more as needed
1 small, mild, thin-skinned pepper, such as a Fresno, Anaheim or banana pepper, or 1/2 small red bell pepper, thinly sliced
Thai basil, thinly sliced, for serving (optional, if makrut lime leaves are not used)
Rice, for serving

DIRECTIONS

Prepare the curry paste: Heat a medium saute pan over medium. Add the coriander and cumin. Swirl the pan around, or toss the seeds with a wooden spoon, and gently toast until fragrant, about 1 minute, taking care not to burn the spices. Transfer to a small plate and cool, then place in a spice grinder or mortar and pestle, and grind to a fine powder.
Add the peanuts and finely grind until smooth. Transfer the mixture to a small bowl, add the red curry paste and stir until mixed.
Thinly slice the chicken into 1 1/2-inch-long pieces. Place in a medium bowl, drizzle with the fish sauce and mix until coated.
Heat the same pan over medium-high. Scoop 4 tablespoons of the thick cream off the top of the coconut milk and add it to the pan; it will immediately sizzle. Stir until thickened and bubbling on the sides, about 30 seconds. Stir in the curry paste, to taste. Reduce to medium, and cook the paste, continuously stirring, until a thick paste forms and the coconut oil separates (the sauce “breaks”), 2 to 3 minutes. If it starts sticking, add a splash of coconut milk and scrape up anything from the bottom of the pan.
Add the torn lime leaves or zest and sugar. Cook, continuously stirring, to dissolve the sugar and infuse the flavors, about 2 minutes. Add the remaining coconut milk, increase to medium-high, bring to a boil and cook, continuously stirring, until the curry has thickened enough to coat the back of a spoon and has a layer of bright red oil on top, 4 to 8 minutes. The curry should be at a lively simmer; adjust the heat as necessary.
Add the chicken and cook, stirring frequently, until cooked through, 3 to 4 minutes. If using, stir in the peppers, saving a few for serving, and cook until just incorporated, about 1 minute. Taste and add more fish sauce and sugar, if needed. (Be mindful, this is not a sweet curry; the sweetness should hit a back note, not lead with it.)
Garnish with the sliced lime leaves or Thai basil and reserved peppers. Serve alongside rice.

Tips: Different brands of curry paste vary in spice levels. Taste a little first and determine how much to use.

3. Oyakodon (Chicken and Egg Rice Bowl)

Oyakodon (chicken and egg rice bowl). Bryan Washington’s recipe is sweet, salty, savory and a snap to make. Props styled by Sophia Pappas. Food styled by Maggie Ruggiero. (Chris Simpson/The New York Times)

Oyakodon is pure bliss, combining the ease of lightly poached chicken with the velvety richness of eggs and onions simmered in sauce. In Japanese, oya means parent, while ko translates to child. Consequently, chicken and egg come together in a blend of dashi, mirin and soy sauce. A perfect weekday meal, oyakodon cooks in just under 30 minutes and is delightful alongside pickles and a bowl of miso soup. The chicken and egg bowl is a dream of soulfulness ladled over rice. Leftovers, if you have any, will hold in the refrigerator for a day.

By Bryan Washington

Yield: 2 to 4 servings

Total time: 40 minutes

INGREDIENTS

2 cups Japanese short-grain rice
1 pound boneless, skinless chicken thighs, sliced into bite-size pieces
1 tablespoon sake
1 cup dashi
2 tablespoons mirin
2 tablespoons soy sauce, or more to taste
1 tablespoon sugar, or more to taste
1 small onion, thinly sliced
4 large eggs
2 scallions, sliced, or 3 sprigs mitsuba
Togarashi (optional), for serving

DIRECTIONS

Cook rice according to package directions.
Meanwhile, stir chicken and sake in a bowl. In a measuring cup or bowl, stir dashi, mirin, soy sauce and sugar until sugar dissolves. Add more soy sauce or sugar to taste.
In a deep medium frying pan (or an oyakodon pan, if you have one), add dashi mixture and then onion. Bring to a simmer over medium-high, then add chicken in a single layer, making sure the dashi mixture covers the chicken and onion.
Bring the heat down to medium-low. Cook for 2 minutes, then flip each piece of chicken with a pair of cooking chopsticks or tongs. Continue cooking until chicken is just cooked through and onion has softened, about 3 minutes more.
In a measuring cup or small bowl, lightly beat eggs. Bring the heat up to medium, and add three-quarters of the eggs in a clockwise pattern over the chicken. Allow the mixture to simmer, swirling the pan to ensure the eggs cover it throughout. When the eggs are slightly set, around 1 minute, add the remaining eggs around the pan’s edges in a clockwise fashion. Once again, swirl the pan to ensure coverage.
Continue to cook the oyakodon to your preferred doneness (less than a minute or so is great), then add scallions (or mitsuba) to the pan.
Divide the rice among individual bowls, then slide enough of the oyakodon over the rice to cover. Serve immediately and sprinkle with togarashi if preferred.

4. Sheet-Pan Chicken With Apple, Fennel and Onion

Sheet-pan chicken with apple, fennel and onion. This Colu Henry dish is fast, beautiful and exactly what you should make when you think you have the energy to make an apple pie but definitely do not. Food styled by Simon Andrews. (Con Poulos/The New York Times)

Chicken thighs are roasted with classic fall ingredients for a quick, flavorful sheet-pan supper. The toasted fennel seeds subtly amplify the anise flavor of the roasted fennel and play nicely with the apples and onions. Look for an apple on the tart side as it will naturally sweeten as it cooks in the oven. If you want to use bone-in chicken breasts you can, just make sure to cut the cooking time by a few minutes so they don’t dry out. Serve with a bright, bitter green salad flecked with blue cheese and toasted walnuts.

By Colu Henry

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

Total time: 40 minutes

INGREDIENTS

2 teaspoons fennel seeds
2 1/2 to 3 pounds bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs, patted dry
3 tablespoons olive oil
Kosher salt and black pepper
1 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced (about 1 1/2 cups)
1 medium fennel bulb, tough outer leaves removed, cored and thinly sliced (about 1 cup)
1 tart apple, such as Mutsu (Crispin) or Granny Smith, halved, cored and cut into 8 wedges
4 sprigs rosemary
Flaky salt, for serving

DIRECTIONS

Heat oven to 425 degrees. In a small skillet, toast the fennel seeds over medium-low heat, stirring frequently until fragrant, about 2 to 3 minutes. Pound into a coarse powder with a mortar and pestle or, alternatively, roughly chop. In a large bowl, toss together the chicken with 1 tablespoon olive oil and the fennel seeds and season well with salt and pepper.
Place the onion, fennel and apple slices on the sheet pan. Toss with the remaining olive oil and season well with salt. Spread in an even layer. Add the chicken skin side up on top of the vegetables and lay the rosemary (distributing evenly) on top of the chicken. Roast for 25 to 30 minutes until the chicken is cooked through and the onions, fennel and apples are softened and have begun to caramelize at the edge of the pan.
Turn the oven to broil and move the oven rack to sit right below it. Remove and discard the rosemary sprigs and broil the chicken for 1 to 2 minutes until the skin of the chicken is crispy and golden. Season with flaky salt.

5. Nasi Goreng Ayam (Indonesian Chicken Fried Rice)

Nasi goreng ayam (Indonesian chicken fried rice). If you have boneless, skinless thighs and leftover rice in the fridge, you can make Kayla Stewart’s nasi goreng ayam, adapted from a recipe by Lara Lee, for dinner. Food styled by Rebecca Jurkevich. (Johnny Miller/The New York Times)

Nasi goreng, which translates to “fried rice,” is one of Indonesia’s best-known dishes, and it’s prepared in numerous ways around the world. Like many other fried rice recipes, this version, from chef Lara Lee’s “Coconut & Sambal,” blends crunchy vegetables with piquant rice, but the addition of ginger and white pepper offer spice and aroma, while kecap manis, a velvety sauce, adds a slightly sweet balance to the dish. Don’t skimp on the fried egg or the fried shallots; both add essential crunch and texture. This is an ideal for a dinner for two.

Recipe from Lara Lee

Adapted by Kayla Stewart

Yield: 2 to 4 servings

Total time: 30 minutes

INGREDIENTS

2 boneless, skinless chicken thighs (about 7 ounces total), cut into bite-size cubes
1/4 teaspoon sea salt and a scant 1/8 teaspoon white pepper, plus more as needed
3 tablespoons coconut oil or sunflower oil
2 shallots, preferably Thai, or 1 small banana shallot, peeled and thinly sliced
1 (3-inch) piece fresh galangal (or ginger), peeled and woody stem removed, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced
1 cup green beans, chopped
2 scallions, chopped into large chunks
1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric
3 1/2 ounces uncooked jasmine or basmati rice, cooked and cooled (about 3 cups)
2 tablespoons store-bought or homemade kecap manis (see Tip for recipe)
2 teaspoons light soy sauce
1 1/2 teaspoons fish sauce
2 large eggs, or duck eggs
1 tablespoon store-bought or homemade crisp fried shallots
1/2 long red chile, such as cayenne, thinly sliced
Prawn crackers, for serving

DIRECTIONS

In a medium bowl, season the chicken pieces with the salt and white pepper.
In a large wok or skillet, heat 1 tablespoon oil over high heat until it melts or shimmers. Fry the chicken, stirring frequently, until cooked through, about 5 minutes. Remove and set aside.
Add another 1 tablespoon oil to the pan, then add the shallot, galangal and garlic, and cook over medium-high until fragrant. Add the green beans, scallions and turmeric and cook for 1 minute.
Add the cooked rice to the pan, breaking up any clumps with a wooden spoon and stirring until combined and warmed.
Return the chicken to the pan. Stir in the kecap manis, light soy sauce, fish sauce, a large pinch of white pepper, and extra salt if needed.
Meanwhile, fry the eggs: Place a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat and add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Once shimmering, crack the eggs directly into the oil. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes until the whites are partially cooked. Tilt the pan and spoon the hot oil over the egg whites until they are fully cooked. Season with salt.
Divide the fried rice between two serving plates and top with the fried shallots, sliced chile and fried eggs; serve with crackers.

Tip: To make your own kecap manis, in a medium saucepan, bring 3/4 cup light soy sauce or gluten-free tamari with 1 1/4 packed cups palm sugar or light or dark brown sugar to a simmer over medium. Reduce heat to low and cook until mixture thickens to the texture of maple syrup, about 5 minutes. Let cool. Cover and refrigerate for up to a few weeks. Makes about 3/4 cup.

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The pantry staple that can change your cooking

posted in: Adventure | 0

Raised in an Armenian household in Santa Clara, California, Levon Minassian recalls trips to the Middle Eastern spice shop where his parents bought Aleppo pepper, the mild, fruity red-chile flakes named after the Syrian city, to use in all manner of dishes at home. Culled from big bins and decanted into bags dragged home, the crimson powder was sprinkled over labneh, baba ghanoush and soups, each pinch a burst of sunlight.

Now, as a founder of Fire Tongue Farms, about 30 miles south in Santa Cruz, Minassian, 34, grows fresh Aleppo peppers and many other chile varieties, dries them and processes them into flakes. At the moment, his Aleppos are green, but soon they will be red, sun-dried and milled, fragrant with the sweetness of time.

Like Aleppos (also known as Halaby peppers), many of the world’s most delicious dried red-chile powders and flakes belong to the Capsicum annuum species, a plant with many varietals and what the chef and food historian Maricel Presilla calls, in her book “Peppers of the Americas,” “both the greatest world traveler of all peppers and the one found in the most incredibly diverse forms.” These include jalapeños, cayenne and bell peppers.

You know what else is part of this pepper group? Gochugaru, the sweet, fragrant Korean chile flakes that dye kimchi red; togarashi, a bright-orange powdered chile from Japan; fruity, moderately spiced Espelette pepper, named for a French commune and prevalent in Basque cooking; ground chipotle, jalapeños that have been dried and smoked; paprika, which comes in many styles but especially sweet, hot and smoked; and more.

By viewing chiles not just by heat level but by flavor, we the curious — home cooks who like to linger in the kitchen — can wander a world of culinary possibilities. So my question to you is: What’s in your pepper pantry?

There’s nothing wrong with the shaker of pizza shop red-pepper flakes — the one next to the oregano and Parmesan — but it’s just one color in a spectrum of chile possibilities. The joy of cooking with dried chiles is mixing and matching. Why paint in gray when you can access a full palette of brilliant colors?

It all comes down to preference, in the end. “Do you want it sweet or do you want it hot or do you want it red or do you want it yellow?” said Ethan Frisch, a founder and CEO of Burlap & Barrel, a company that sells single-origin spices.

For Frisch, 37, who has bought various red peppers from Minassian’s farm for Burlap & Barrel, each dried chile flake has a story: As with coffee and wine, terroir is a key determinant in the ultimate flavor of a chile. “It doesn’t take long for the chile to start evolving, to meet the demands of its local climate,” he said. “And that, of course, changes the flavor and also is, of course, shaped by human interest.”

As an example: An old friend from high school, James Dong, recently gave me a plastic resealable sandwich bag of Korean red chiles he had grown in Georgia (from seeds he bought on Etsy), smoked and crushed himself to make gochugaru. His chile flakes had the same red glint and jammy savoriness of those grown in Asia, but through the smoking process, they had taken on the fragrance of Mexican chipotles. The blazing perfume was so strong, it felt like I was carrying around a flame. I reached into that bag to sprinkle over all kinds of meals throughout the month, but the most delicious use of it was in this tomato sauce.

Whichever pepper you choose to stock, this recipe takes full advantage of Capsicum annuum’s flavor and heat, and celebrates its journey. Using a mix of dried chile flakes, and accepting that it’s all right to have more than one in your pantry (they all taste so different!), leads to exciting results.

A homage to Marcella Hazan’s famous tomato sauce, this recipe has you switch the order: First, the butter is melted, so it can bloom a heaping tablespoon or two of your favorite mix of chile powders and flakes to bring out their fruity heat. In lieu of red-pepper flakes made by a childhood friend, you can use regular gochugaru, Aleppo pepper or even togarashi, among others, along with a little smoked paprika to replicate the explosive flavor that smoking gives beautiful red chiles.

At the end of the day, dried chiles have so much to offer, beyond just their spiciness. All it takes is a little playful tinkering in the kitchen to bring out those coveted qualities.

Spicy Pizza Sauce

By Eric Kim

An homage to the famous Marcella Hazan tomato sauce, this iteration has you switch the order: First, the butter is melted, so it can then bloom a heaping tablespoon or two of chile flakes to bring out their fruity heat. Any kind works, but what this recipe can teach you is how to mix and match between different chile powders to find exactly the flavor you’re craving in any given moment. Because at the end of the day, chiles have so much flavor, so much nuance, beyond just their spiciness. Use this all-purpose red sauce for pizza, pasta, sandwiches and everything in between.

Yield: About 1 quart

Total time: 1 hour, largely unattended

INGREDIENTS

5 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 to 2 tablespoons red chile powder or flakes (any mix of gochugaru, togarashi, Aleppo pepper, Espelette pepper and red-pepper flakes, plus 1 teaspoon smoked paprika)
1 (28-ounce) can whole plum tomatoes, crushed with your hands
1 large red or yellow onion, quartered lengthwise and peeled
1 (2-inch square) Parmesan rind
Salt
1 teaspoon sugar (optional)

DIRECTIONS

In a large saucepan over medium, melt the butter, then add the chile powder and stir until fragrant, just a few seconds (be careful not to burn the chiles). Add the tomatoes, along with 1/2 cup water swished around the can to catch any clinging sauce. Stir in the onion, Parmesan rind, 1 teaspoon salt and the sugar, if using.
Bring to a boil, then lower the heat to simmer. Partially cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sauce is thick and jammy, about 45 minutes. Discard or eat the onion. Discard the rind. Taste and add more salt or sugar as needed.
Use right away or store in a tightly sealed container. The sauce should keep for up to 5 days in the refrigerator (and is even easier to cook with when cold).

— This article originally appeared in The New York Times.

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Taylor J. Swift: Congress must get serious about its capacity or cede power to courts

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The Supreme Court’s recent decision to strike down a cornerstone of administrative law known as the Chevron doctrine represents a seismic shift in the balance of power between the three branches of government.

After 40 years of relying on federal agencies to interpret legislative ambiguities when implementing regulations, it’s now up to courts to discern congressional intent. The Supreme Court did not “return” power to Congress, but it did put the onus on an under-resourced legislative branch to be much more clear in writing laws. If Congress fails to exercise its lawmaking power, it will cede power to the judiciary.

As the “first branch,” Congress must now reassess its ability to fulfill this increased responsibility effectively. A recent House hearing highlighted the urgency of this issue: Witnesses called for Congress to increase its resources to ensure that lawmakers can respond to the needs of constituents, engage in effective lawmaking and maintain robust oversight.

Even with a spotlight on its diminished capacity, the House began summer recess early after failing to pass its latest legislative branch appropriations bill, underscoring the difficulty in securing the necessary funding to strengthen congressional operations. Provisions to increase funding for member and staff salaries should not be controversial, but are typically dead on arrival, leading to chronic underfunding and a congressional “brain drain” that has crippled the institution.

After decades of underinvestment, Congress must rebuild its workforce and equip its employees with the tools they need. The legislative branch operates with roughly 1/120th of the resources of the executive branch. The legislative branch has only 31,000 employees across the House, Senate and support agencies with an annual budget of $7 billion, while the executive branch employs 2.97 million individuals and operates with trillions of dollars annually. Funding for congressional operations has not kept pace with other increases in government spending, causing further imbalances and resource constraints.

Legislative branch appropriations have increased only 50 percent from fiscal 2001 to fiscal 2022 while non-defense discretionary spending grew by over 90% in the same period. And most increases in the legislative branch budget went to maintaining buildings and policing the Capitol rather than enhancing legislative capacity.

This constrained funding has taken a toll on the institution and its capacity. From 2011 to 2021, House staff salaries were effectively cut 20% when adjusting for inflation while the cost of living in the nation’s capital significantly increased. And since the original Chevron decision in the 1980s, Congress has seen a 41% reduction in House committee staff and a 25% downsizing in critical support offices like the Congressional Research Service and the Government Accountability Office.

This decades-long lack of investment has also coincided with an increase in legislative activity and oversight. The number of legislative drafting requests to the House Office of Legislative Counsel has surged by 76% since the 115th Congress, while the number of proposed amendments has increased by 39%. Despite this growing workload, the Office of Legislative Counsel’s operating budget has increased by only 17% when adjusted for inflation.

Congress must build on recent modernization efforts to enhance its capacity and reassert its legislative authority. To provide stability, Congress could mandate that annual legislative branch appropriations increase proportionally with non-defense discretionary spending each fiscal year. Implementing this policy beginning in fiscal 2025 would tie legislative funding growth to the overall growth in federal discretionary budgets. Excluding the Capitol Police funding from this proportional growth policy would account for its unique budget needs.

This approach would prevent legislative capacity from lagging and enable investments in staff, technology, operations and infrastructure to support congressional duties. Stable funding would allow congressional offices and agencies to better project budgets over the long term and — most importantly — fortify the first branch of government’s ability to fulfill its constitutional responsibilities.

The overturning of Chevron is a wake-up call for a Congress that has often found it difficult to invest in itself or hold its constitutional ground. The ball is on Congress’ court, but if lawmakers don’t step up, it will be the courts that run the game.

Taylor J. Swift is director of government capacity at POPVOX Foundation. Prior to joining POPVOX Foundation, he was a senior policy advisor at Demand Progress, focusing on Congressional transparency, efficiency, capacity, and modernization. He wrote this column for The Fulcrum,  nonprofit, nonpartisan news platform covering efforts to fix our governing systems.

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Matthew Yglesias: The breakout star of the Democratic Convention was … YIMBY

posted in: Politics | 0

Barack Obama’s speech at last week’s Democratic National Convention marks what is almost certainly the high-water mark for the political visibility of the YIMBY movement.

Taking a cue from one of the main themes of the week — “We’re not going back” — the former president noted that the nation needs “to chart a new way forward to meet the challenges of today.”

For example, he noted, “if we want to make it easier for young people to buy a home, we need to build more units and clear away some of the outdated laws and regulations that have made it harder to build homes for working people in this country.”

For us veterans of the land-use reform movement, it was a thrilling moment. Not that these ideas are brand new to Obama. His administration embraced the basic analytic viewpoint of YIMBYism during his second term, most clearly in its 2016 Housing Supply Toolkit but also in various budget requests and remarks by administration officials over the years. President Joe Biden’s administration has similarly been officially YIMBY in a low-key way.

What we never got from either president, however, was the kind of high-profile endorsement that Obama delivered last week. Under the circumstances, it would be extremely churlish to offer any reaction other than a simple, “Thank you.”

And yet here I am.

While tackling regulatory barriers to housing construction in high-demand areas is absolutely an important long-term issue for the U.S. economy, in the short term federal policymakers have more powerful tools.

For better or worse, the U.S. is currently building dense housing at the highest rate since the mid-1980s. It’s true that anti-density rules are still too strict, and that rolling them back would have large economic benefits. But restrictions on apartments don’t explain very much about why housing-cost pressures are so much more severe today than they were a decade ago. What’s happened instead is that construction of single-family homes is running at a dramatically slower rate than in the 1990s, to say nothing of the aughts.

In 2010 or 2014, nobody found the low rate of housebuilding remarkable. There had just been an enormous housing market crash, after all, and homebuilding was recovering from a low level. But the slow recovery has basically plateaued since the pandemic, even though demand keeps rising. What gives?

Some analysts, such as Kevin Erdmann at the Mercatus Center, point the finger at Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac noting that tighter lending standards adopted after the financial crisis mean that mortgage lending to lower-income families has dried up.

Without any eligible purchasers of cheap starter homes, it doesn’t really make sense to build them. Despite the hype around private equity funds investing in single-family homes as rental properties, single-family rentals are a very small and unproven business. The majority of investment in purpose-built rental housing is multifamily apartments, just as it’s always been.

Investment in this sector is in fact up in response to the rise in demand, but it is running into the regulatory constraints Obama is talking about. Lifting these constraints is important and useful, but a series of state-by-state, city-by-city, zoning-board-by-zoning-board battles is a generational struggle — it’s not a quick fix for suffering families. Mortgage lending standards, by contrast, are set nationally by the Federal Housing Finance Agency (and to an extent the Consumer Financial Protection Bureau) and could simply be made more lax.

Would this be courting another financial catastrophe?

I’m skeptical. For starters, the rules can be altered without going all the way back to the “liar loans” of yesteryear — there’s such a thing as an overreaction to a real problem. More to the point, trying to avoid financial crises at that end of the funnel is just a slightly odd idea. The federal government regulates the overall riskiness of banks’ loan portfolios with regulations on stuff like capital and liquidity. The recent trend at the Federal Reserve has been toward weakening these rules in pursuit of economic growth. It would make more sense to be lax on mortgage lending and strict on bank capital, letting investors risk their money on loans if that’s what they want to do.

There is also the construction market, which is significantly influenced by the interest-rate environment. Democrats are aware of this when they talk about their hope that the Fed will cut rates this fall. But they are less aware that the capacity of long-term rates to fall — unless unemployment surges — is limited by the size of the budget deficit.

Fiscal discipline and bank deregulation was the housing-policy formula of another former Democratic president who spoke last week: Bill Clinton. But ever since the financial crisis, he hasn’t liked to talk about it so much — even though, as housing policy, it worked pretty well.

America’s current home dearth is a reminder that every choice in life comes with trade-offs. There are downsides to getting too lax with mortgage origination rules, and downsides to getting too strict. And over time, the U.S. does really need to address zoning and other land-use practices that block apartment construction from too many communities.

But America suffers from a housing shortage right now, and if Democrats want to fulfill Kamala Harris’ pledge to end it, then they will need some powerful, fast-acting tools. That means making use of the federal government’s vast power over home financing instead of its limited influence over local building regulations.

Matthew Yglesias is a columnist for Bloomberg Opinion. A co-founder of and former columnist for Vox, he writes the Slow Boring blog and newsletter. He is the author of “One Billion Americans.”

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Serge Schmemann: Putin is getting rattled

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Ivan Eland: Solutions to the Supreme Court’s presidential immunity disaster

Opinion |


Galvao, Klutsey: Teaching civil discourse — a classroom blueprint for America

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Jackie Payne: Undecided moderate women could be the tipping point this November