Homage would be the kinder term, but no matter how you slice it, the Hulu sitcom “Mid-Century Modern” is a “Golden Girls” ripoff. Three gay best friends sans significant others — played by Nathan Lane, Matthew Bomer and Nathan Lee Graham — decide to become roommates and share a spacious home together. Instead of Miami, the setting is Palm Springs, which is a distinction without a difference when it comes to a vaguely gestured-at backdrop of palm trees and retirees.

I actually don’t mind the recycled template. In an era defined by old intellectual property reanimated into its latest zombie form, it was inevitable someone would reimagine this ’80s TV stalwart, which still holds up (boy, does it hold up). Technically, “Mid-Century Modern” is an original show, not a reboot. But in spirit? Rebootapalooza. Even the general layout of the set is reminiscent of the “Golden Girls” house. If only the similarities extended to the show’s quality overall.

The series comes from “Will & Grace” creators Max Mutchnick and David Kohan, who understand the mechanics and rhythms of a sitcom. The cast, however, does not (with one exception), which is perhaps why it feels like everyone is playing to the back row. It’s so bad in the pilot that I’m curious if people will stick around and keep watching. I hope so, because the show improves. Not enough. But it’s better than the first episode suggests.

The owner of the house is Bunny (Lane), a mostly retired founder of a Victoria’s Secret-esque company. His snazzy, opinionated mother also lives with him, and zingers aplenty from this one. She’s played by Linda Lavin, the only sitcom veteran in the main cast and who instinctually knows what’s required here. She’s brilliant. The newcomers to their abode are Jerry, a hunky Mormon flight attendant (Bomer), and Arthur, a haughty fashion doyen recently fired from Vogue (Graham). As longtime friends, this setup is just what they need at this point in their lives, with everyone feeling somewhat adrift.

All good, in terms of the general framework. I’m dying — dying — for a traditional-style sitcom, laughtrack and all, that really works. The great James Burrows directs, and his legacy includes everything from “Cheers” to “Friends.” What could go wrong?

Quite a bit, actually. The show keeps getting in its own way, mostly because the characters lack distinct personalities. Bunny is … a lot? Arthur is … a lot too, but with a supercilious edge? Jerry is … blissfully dim? (He’s the obvious “Golden Girls” corollary, playing a version of Rose). These barebones traits don’t help you peg who they are in this little world. What do they want, as individuals? What is their comedic function within the show? None of this has been worked out. The creators go heavy on ribald, sometimes overworked, banter — “You don’t look sad, you just look like a reluctant bottom” — which in general can be fun (though in lighter doses than we get here), but only if it feels specific to each character, not just a dirty line anyone in the scene would rattle off.

That’s where “The Golden Girls” could have been instructive, because the punchlines on that show are tailored to each person’s nature and temperament and outlook on life. If “Mid-Century Modern” had a clearer idea of who its central characters were (aside from Lavin, who is perfect), the sweaty need to sell, sell, sell every joke probably wouldn’t weigh on everyone so heavily. When Bunny becomes flustered in front of an attractive man, the double entendre tumbles out of his mouth as he likens the hot guy’s storytelling skills to a one-man stage show: “People would definitely come, I’d come every night!” But Lane’s delivery doesn’t finesse the line so you laugh despite yourself; the delivery feels focused on ensuring audiences get it. Yes, we get it. Stop pushing so hard. Lane is a wonderfully versatile actor, it’s troubling to see him working to overcompensate for such an amorphously written role.

They all get COVID in one episode and are stuck at home trying to amuse themselves, and I at least appreciate that a TV show — any TV show — is acknowledging that COVID is still an ongoing reality. Another storyline sees the men taking a trip to Fire Island to recapture their youth, which doesn’t go as planned, and it’s one of the season’s strongest episodes. Pamela Adlon shows up occasionally as Bunny’s younger sister and she brings a much needed piquant energy to the proceedings. Bomer is good when Jerry the ding-dong must navigate a moment of real sentiment or complication; the juxtaposition is effective.

But overall the show is missing the kind of scenes that allow the core ensemble to sit around the kitchen table and share absurd stories with one another about their lives.

Lavin died in December at 87, before filming on the season finished. “I’m thrilled you’re gonna move in here,” she says to her son’s friends, “it’s gonna be so good for Bunny to not be alone when I’m gone, which won’t be for a long while!” She yells that last part for emphasis. It’s a line that leaves a lump in your throat.

Her death is incorporated into the final two episodes, leaving the show with an unfillable hole. The finale suggests that if the show is renewed, the creators might simply add yet another gay guy to the mix. But that doesn’t change up the energy the way Lavin’s character did. Her glamorous and slightly tacky presence served to pour cold water on whatever emotional spiral the men were in the midst of, and that was a source of real comedy. If there’s a Season 2, here’s hoping the show can conceive of the right kind of person — and the right kind of actor — who can recreate that energy.

“Mid-Century Modern” — 2.5 stars (out of 4)

Where to watch: Hulu

Nina Metz is a Tribune critic.

The blood in “Death of a Unicorn” comes in two colors: the familiar shades of red for humans and a deep purple for the mythological creature of the title. Writer and director Alex Sharfman’s splurchy dark comedy carves itself into halves, a clever first half followed by a more routine second one. Yet it’s a feature film debut signaling a filmmaker of actual wit. So you go with it — I did, anyway, most of it, more or less — even when its sense of tone and direction goes sideways.

This is social satire plus cautionary parenting tale plus monster movie, which is quite a lot. Corporate lawyer Elliot, played by Paul Rudd, and his daughter Ridley, played by Jenna Ortega, have flown to a remote corner of the Canadian Rockies (played by Hungary, where the film was shot) for a working retreat hosted by the pharmaceutical billionaires for whom Elliot works. En route, in their rental car, a distracted, multitasking Elliot drives headlong into an animal crossing the road.

It’s a unicorn, and it’s alive, and Elliot takes a tire iron and kills it, shoves in the car, and continues on, disheveled and slightly blood-spattered, as is Ridley. Soon enough, they learn the horned miracle is not dead. Its magical regenerative properties and golden, glowing horn signifies something amazing is afoot. And once the dying CEO (Richard E. Grant), his blithely callous wife (Téa Leoni) and their slovenly La-Z- Boy of a son (Will Poulter) realize the potential billions to be made from unicorn-based medicine patents, “Death of a Unicorn” pits humans against beasts, with the injured-presumed-dead creature’s larger, angry parents ready for payback.

From “The Menu” to “Knives Out” to the current “Opus,” we’ve seen more than a few eat-the-rich allegories in the last few years. Scharfman’s is buoyed by the comic wiles of its key players. Which brings us to Leoni, although too few movies have brought to us to Leoni lately.

It’s the highest compliment to say Leoni has the throwaway flair, the verbal invention and the comic timing of the great stars associated with peak Hollywood screwball and high comedy. She’s Jean Arthur/Carole Lombard-level good.

Scharfman underuses her a little, which is too bad. Most of Leoni’s best moments happen very nearly under her breath. Her confusion about the family’s latest philanthropic venture, for example (she’s fuzzy on whether the refugees she’s helping to save are getting evacuated or vaccinated), or the way she casually gestures with a few twirls her wrist, as if on a Maggie Smith-sponsored internship — these small flourishes add so much.

Everyone’s good in the movie, and Rudd and Ortega anchor it. Their characters are still reeling from the death of Elliot’s wife, and Ridley’s mother, which gives the actors plenty to play underneath the escalating panic. Just past the midpoint, “Death of a Unicorn” settles in for a series of bombastic suspense sequences, capped inevitably by an impaling or a de-entrailing. It’s more than a lurch into action/horror/gore yuks territory; it’s a different movie.

At this point, Scharfman is a better writer than director. But this is only his first directorial feature. He’s full of ideas. The selectivity will come in time.

“Death of a Unicorn” — 2.5 stars (out of 4)

MPA rating: R (for strong violent content, gore, language and some drug use)

Running time: 1:47

How to watch: Premieres in theaters March 28

Michael Phillips is a Tribune critic. 

By Gretchen McKay, Pittsburgh Post-Gazette

Home cooks looking to stay on budget often opt for simple Italian dishes as a way to save a buck or two.

And more often than not, choosing an easy-to-make dish like spaghetti with marinara makes good, economical sense. Dried pasta is one of your more inexpensive pantry items, and so is the quick-cooking red sauce that accompanies it if you use canned tomatoes and everyday spices like salt, red pepper and garlic.

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But fresh, homemade pasta dishes can be just as thrifty and pack even more flavor at dinnertime.

One tasty example is this budget meal featuring Italian crepes called crespelle stuffed with a creamy mix of three cheeses. Topped with a simple red sauce, it’s served with tender spring asparagus that’s been tossed in olive oil and roasted, and crispy, homemade garlic bread.

It also includes a simple, old-school dessert that ends dinner on a sweet and crunchy note: sugary crinkle cookies spiced with lemon zest and ginger.

Total cost for a family of four, with leftovers? A very affordable $21.03, or just a little more than $5 per serving for a nutritious, home-cooked meal.

How, you ask?

You have to do a little work, of course, both beforehand and also day-of in the kitchen. But by making and sticking to a shopping list, taking advantage of sales, choosing seasonal produce and opting for cheaper store brands over national labels, it’s completely doable.

I’ve been a fan of manicotti composed with homemade crepes ever since my Italian neighbor, Josephine, taught me how to make the dish more than a decade ago. The occasion: a surprise birthday party for my husband. The goal: a dish that would feel special but still prove affordable since I would be feeding a crowd.

Manicotti checked both boxes brilliantly, and is now a staple at family gatherings both large and small. It should be in your regular rotation, too, since it’s a hearty dish that satisfies even big appetites but manages to also taste delicate. Made with eggs and milk, the light and fluffy crepes become incredibly tender when baked. Not surprisingly, they also have a much better flavor than dried pasta tubes.

At first glance, the recipe might give one pause because eggs still cost a king’s ransom. But you need only four, which adds just $1.80 to the overall cost of the entree.

In fact, the $3 Italian loaf used to make the garlic bread was the most expensive item on my shopping list — more costly than a pound of super-thin asparagus I found on sale for $2.49, and also pricier than each of the store-brand cheeses that went into the rich, velvety pasta filling.

Cook’s note: Crepe-making can be really intimidating if you’ve never tried it. But with a little practice and a good nonstick pan, you’ll soon be a pro. And diners will immediately notice the difference.

As always, shop your fridge and pantry before heading to the grocery store. For this meal, “freebies” included all the spices, the cooking oil, the baking soda, the cream of tartar and the sugar sprinkled on top of the cookies.

Buon appetito!

This budget dinner for 4 includes crepe-like homemade cannelloni, garlic bread, roasted asparagus and lemon crinkles for dessert. (Gretchen McKay/Pittsburgh Post-Gazette/TNS/TNS)

Garlic Bread

Serves 4-6, PG tested

This recipe is so easy — you just have to spread a split loaf of French or Italian bread with a heady mix of garlic, butter, salt and fresh parsley. Then, bake until golden and crispy.

INGREDIENTS

1/2 cup unsalted butter, 1 stick, at room temperature

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh parsley

2 garlic cloves, minced

1/2 teaspoon sea salt

1 (15-ounce) loaf French or Italian bread or baguette

Flaky sea salt

Red pepper flakes, optional

DIRECTIONS

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees and line a baking sheet with parchment paper; place oven rack in the top third of the oven.
In a small bowl, stir together the softened butter, parsley, garlic and salt.
Using a serrated knife, slice the bread in half lengthwise, then slather the cut sides with garlic butter.
Place bread cut side up on baking sheet, and bake until the butter is melted and bread is crispy around the edges, 8-10 minutes.
Sprinkle with salt and red pepper flakes, if using, slice and serve hot.

—Gretchen McKay, Post-Gazette

Roasted Asparagus

Serves 4, PG tested

Asparagus is one of the first vegetables to arrive in spring and often is on sale. Usually steamed, it’s tossed in olive oil in this recipe and roasted until fork-tender. So simple, so delicious.

INGREDIENTS

1 pound asparagus spears, woody ends snapped off

Drizzle of olive oil

Pinch of kosher salt

Ground black pepper

1/2 lemon, for squeezing

DIRECTIONS

Preheat oven to 425 degrees and line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.
Place asparagus on the sheet and drizzle with 1 or 2 teaspoons olive oil, just enough to lightly coat the asparagus. Sprinkle salt and pepper on and toss until the spears are lightly coated in oil. Spread them out in a single layer on the pan.
Bake just until the base of a stalk is easily pierced. Very thin asparagus will only take as little as 9 minutes; thicker spears might take 15-20 minutes.
Transfer roasted asparagus to a serving platter. Add a squeeze of lemon juice. Serve.

— Gretchen McKay, Post-Gazette

Homemade 3-Cheese Manicotti

Makes about 15 crepes, serving 4-6; PG tested

Making crepes is just like making pancakes — the first one or two probably won’t be perfect, but once you get the hang of things (and the right heat in the pan), it’s easy. You do, however, have to be speedy and keep swirling the pan the entire time — crepes cook in around 20 seconds.

Be sure to chill the batter before cooking so the flour can fully absorb the liquid. (The crepes will be more tender.) I whisked it by hand, but you also could whirl it in a blender.

If the tomato sauce seems too thin, add a little tomato paste to thicken.

INGREDIENTS

For sauce

1 large garlic clove, crushed

1 28-ounce can crushed plum tomatoes

Pinch red pepper flakes

Pinch dried oregano, optional

For crepes

4 eggs

1/2 cup water

1/2 cup milk

1 cup flour

Pinch of salt

For filling

15-ounce container ricotta

1/2 cup grated or shredded Parmesan cheese, plus more for sprinkling

2 cups shredded mozzarella

Pinch of red pepper flakes

1 tablespoon chopped parsley

1 teaspoon salt

A few pinches of freshly ground nutmeg

DIRECTIONS

Prepare sauce: Add olive oil to a medium saucepan set over medium-high heat. When it sizzles, add garlic and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute.
Add crushed tomatoes and 1 cup water, along with a pinch or two of red pepper flakes and oregano, if using. Stir to combine, then season to taste with a pinch or two of salt. Turn heat to medium-low and let simmer while you prepare crepes and filling.
Make crepes: In medium bowl, whisk eggs, milk and water together until well combined. Slowly add flour, continually whisking until you have a smooth batter with a texture of heavy cream.
Place in refrigerator to rest for at least 30 minutes. (This will make the crepes more tender.)
Prepare filling: In a large bowl, add ricotta, Parmesan, shredded mozzarella, a pinch of red pepper flakes, parsley, salt and nutmeg. Taste, and add more salt if it seems underseasoned.
Preheat oven to 375 degrees and lightly brush a 9-by-13-inch baking dish with oil.
Make the crepes: Remove batter from fridge and whisk it briefly to dissolve any lumps. Heat an 8-inch nonstick crepe pan over medium heat. (You also can use a regular nonstick pan, or a cast-iron skillet brushed with melted butter.)
Add a scant 1/4 cup of batter (just enough to cover the bottom of the pan) and swirl it in a circle to spread a thin, even layer of batter on the bottom and up the sides of the pan.
When bubbles spring up and crepe edges appear dry, about 30 seconds, use a rubber or offset spatula to carefully flip it over and continue cooking for another few seconds.
Transfer to plate to cool, and repeat with remaining crepe batter. Don’t worry about stacking them — they won’t stick. (If you’re not using right away, cover with plastic wrap and store in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.) You should get around 15 crepes.
Spread 2 generous tablespoons of cheese mixture across each crepe, and roll up burrito style. Spread a layer of marinara in the bottom of the baking pan(s) and place crepes seam-side down on top of sauce. Spread a little more sauce on top and sprinkle with additional Parmesan.
Cover with foil, and bake for 25-30 minutes, until sauce is bubbling and cheese is browned. Serve hot, with a little more grated cheese for passing.

— Gretchen McKay, Post-Gazette

Lemon Ginger Crinkles

Makes about 4 dozen cookies, PG tested

INGREDIENTS

Lemon zest and ginger give these traditional sugar crinkle cookies a gentle flavor boost.

1 cup packed brown sugar

1/2 cup vegetable shortening

1 tablespoon lemon zest, from 1 lemon

1 egg

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon ground ginger

1/4 cup granulated sugar, for rolling

DIRECTIONS

Heat oven to 350 degrees.
In large bowl, mix brown sugar, shortening, lemon zest and egg until well combined.
Stir in egg, flour, baking soda, cream or tartar, salt and ground ginger.
In small bowl, place granulated sugar. Shape dough into 1-inch balls; dip tops into granulated sugar.
On 2 ungreased cookie sheets, arrange balls, sugared sides up, about 3 inches apart. Press with a fork to create ridges.
Bake cookies for 10-11 minutes, or until almost no indentation remains when touched. Immediately remove cookie sheet to cooling rack, and repeat with second cookie sheet.
Continue forming and baking cookies with remaining dough.

— “Betty Crocker Found Recipes: Beloved Vintage Recipes Worth Sharing”

©2025 PG Publishing Co. Visit at post-gazette.com. Distributed by Tribune Content Agency, LLC.

By LAURA UNGAR, Associated Press

Scientists have developed a device that can translate thoughts about speech into spoken words in real time.

Although it’s still experimental, they hope the brain-computer interface could someday help give voice to those unable to speak.

A new study described testing the device on a 47-year-old woman with quadriplegia who couldn’t speak for 18 years after a stroke. Doctors implanted it in her brain during surgery as part of a clinical trial.

It “converts her intent to speak into fluent sentences,” said Gopala Anumanchipalli, a co-author of the study published Monday in the journal Nature Neuroscience.

In this photo provided by researchers researchers at UCSF and UC Berkeley, a UCSF clinical research coordinator connects a neural data port into the head of Ann, a participant in a study on speech neuroprostheses, in El Cerrito, Calif., on Monday, May 22, 2023. (Noah Berger/UCSF, UC Berkeley via AP)

Other brain-computer interfaces, or BCIs, for speech typically have a slight delay between thoughts of sentences and computerized verbalization. Such delays can disrupt the natural flow of conversation, potentially leading to miscommunication and frustration, researchers said.

This is “a pretty big advance in our field,” said Jonathan Brumberg of the Speech and Applied Neuroscience Lab at the University of Kansas, who was not part of the study.

A team in California recorded the woman’s brain activity using electrodes while she spoke sentences silently in her brain. The scientists used a synthesizer they built using her voice before her injury to create a speech sound that she would have spoken. They trained an AI model that translates neural activity into units of sound.

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It works similarly to existing systems used to transcribe meetings or phone calls in real time, said Anumanchipalli, of the University of California, Berkeley.

The implant itself sits on the speech center of the brain so that it’s listening in, and those signals are translated to pieces of speech that make up sentences. It’s a “streaming approach,” Anumanchipalli said, with each 80-millisecond chunk of speech – about half a syllable – sent into a recorder.

“It’s not waiting for a sentence to finish,” Anumanchipalli said. “It’s processing it on the fly.”

Decoding speech that quickly has the potential to keep up with the fast pace of natural speech, said Brumberg. The use of voice samples, he added, “would be a significant advance in the naturalness of speech.”

Though the work was partially funded by the National Institutes of Health, Anumanchipalli said it wasn’t affected by recent NIH research cuts. More research is needed before the technology is ready for wide use, but with “sustained investments,” it could be available to patients within a decade, he said.

The Associated Press Health and Science Department receives support from the Howard Hughes Medical Institute’s Science and Educational Media Group and the Robert Wood Johnson Foundation. The AP is solely responsible for all content.