If you’re looking for some of the freshest, most delicious Mexican food in the Twin Cities, head to … Apple Valley.
No, I’m not punking you. The new Homshuk Mexican Kitchen and Bar, on an unlikely corner in a very suburban suburb, is serving tender, smoky octopus, juicy Picanha steak, rich mole, house-made tortillas and so much more in a very modern space. And adjacent to the restaurant is a Latin market that makes its own nixtamalized tortillas, sports a vast bakery and deli counter, and even butchers its own meat.
The restaurant is not a secret among southern suburban residents — the parking lot has been packed both times we visited — but the space is big enough to accommodate the crowds and will be especially equipped to do so when the pretty patio is open.
I highly recommend you start your meal with nachos, which consist of house-made chips loaded with refried beans, house-made queso, pico, guacamole, salty cotija cheese and fresh red serrano chiles. You can end things there for a light meal, or dig into the extensive menu.
We couldn’t resist the octopus, or Pulpo a La Parilla, after seeing it being plated while we waited for a table (there’s a giant window into the kitchen near the entrance). We were not disappointed by the tender, smoky meat, grilled over a wood fire. Wrapped in a fresh corn tortilla and drizzed with a little bright, spicy tomatillo salsa, it was even better.
The Picanha steak, also known as the sirloin cap, was a perfectly charred, beefy marvel, served with a solitary mole enchilada and a cactus salad along with the requisite rice and beans. We also loved the chile relleno, a giant poblano pepper, stuffed with gooey cheese and bathed in a mildly zippy tomato sauce.
After following the restaurant on social media, I had to order the wet burrito, which was easily two or three meals worth of rice, beans, cheese and flavorful chile verde pork stuffed into a giant tortilla and bathed in the restaurant’s excellent queso.
We all ordered margaritas — from a spicy pineapple to a tangy hibiscus, they were all fresh and excellent. And at $11 apiece, less expensive than many in the core cities.
I returned a few weeks later to check out the neighboring Bodega 42 Fresh Market, hoping to score some fresh, nixtamalized corn tortillas (they were out) but instead finding some amazing roasted tomato salsa, a beautiful produce section (I bought some verdant, fat asparagus, and was tempted by an array of tropical fruits and fresh garbanzo beans, among other hard-to-find vegetables and herbs) and a bakery section that rivals any of the best Mexican bakeries in the core cities.
It was cool to see the area in the back where the tortillas are made, and I’ll definitely be back earlier in the day to try to score some.
Honestly, it’s worth a little road trip to the south to check out Homshuk — and if you live in the area, what are you waiting for?
Small Bites are first glances — not intended as definitive reviews — of new or changed restaurants.
Homshuk Mexican Kitchen and Bar
Where: 6999 W. 152nd St., Apple Valley
Contact: 651-300-1380; homshukmexicankitchen.com
Prices: Appetizers, $8.50-$15; entrees, $13-$24
Good to know: Neighboring market Bodega 42 has takeout deli options (bodega42freshmarket.com). Ample on-site parking, gluten-free and vegetarian options. Open for lunch and dinner daily, brunch on Saturday and Sunday.
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