Other voices: Cyberattacks are up. So why are US defenses down?

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America’s enemies are growing bolder and more sophisticated in cyberspace. To fend them off, the government must stop unilaterally disarming.

Two recent reports underscore the danger. In mid-October, Seattle-based cybersecurity firm F5 Inc. acknowledged a “catastrophic” breach of its systems, which may have allowed Chinese hackers to penetrate networks used by federal agencies and Fortune 500 companies. Less than a week later, a congressionally mandated watchdog, the Cyberspace Solarium Commission, warned that US cyber readiness had for the first time regressed since the body was formed five years ago. Nearly a quarter of the group’s recommendations judged to have been “fully implemented” had lost that status.

Much of the damage has occurred at the Cybersecurity and Infrastructure Security Agency, responsible for coordinating defense of the nation’s civilian networks. Launched in 2018, the agency has generally won plaudits for helping secure election systems around the country, providing early warning of attacks, and helping companies and infrastructure managers bolster their cyberdefenses. Since January, the agency has lost nearly a third of its personnel — including most of its senior staff — to layoffs, buyouts and early resignations. About two-thirds of the remaining employees were furloughed during the government shutdown, while others have been transferred to agencies focused on deportations. At one point, fewer than 900 were still on the job.

Meanwhile, a key law offering liability protections to companies when they share information about attacks with the government and each other lapsed temporarily, slowing down potential responses. While Congress has revived it through the end of January, a long-term fix is still needed. The administration’s proposed budget for 2026 would slash nearly $500 million from CISA’s funding, further shrinking collaboration with states and companies, as well as education and training programs.

Although the White House defends the cuts as streamlining the agency’s mission, cybersecurity professionals and members of the Cyberspace Solarium Commission are alarmed. Artificial intelligence tools threaten to supercharge the capabilities of criminals and US adversaries even as, according to the commission’s new report, the “nation’s ability to protect itself and its allies from cyber threats is stalling and, in several areas, slipping.” States and infrastructure operators can’t easily replicate the resources and bird’s-eye view of the federal government, nor can they play the same coordinating role. If that delays responses to hacks of critical systems, including energy grids and hospitals, attacks could swiftly cascade.

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Congress should heed the warnings of its own commission. The information-sharing law in particular has widespread support across both sides of the aisle and across industry. It should be extended beyond January, and a replacement found for the public-private council that formerly allowed industry to discuss sensitive security information with the government.

When legislators finally get around to drawing up a new budget for next year, they should also restore funding and staffing for CISA, preferably on a multiyear basis to insulate the agency against future shutdowns. While it may be difficult to restock the ranks with experienced professionals given more lucrative private-sector opportunities, the government should at least strive to retain those that are left and to restore the pipeline for new recruits.

Threats to the nation’s digital networks are not going to shrink. Neither should the agency tasked with helping to defeat them.

Following panettone acclaim, Cossetta’s expands bakery, launches national sales

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At Cossetta’s, panettone is moving upward — literally and figuratively.

Up till now, head pastry chef Jaime Martinez and his team have made the classic Italian Christmas bread in a subterranean bakery under the gelato shop at the St. Paul culinary institution. But starting in December, the company’s panettone operation is relocating up to the second floor of Cossetta Eventi, the company’s catering space on Exchange Street, into a custom-built, 15,000-square-foot panettone production facility.

In conjunction with the move, said owner Dave Cossetta, the company is launching an e-commerce platform Dec. 1, at cossettas.com, to ship panettone nationwide year-round.

Cossetta head pastry chef Jaime Martinez pushes an inverted cooling rack of panettone loaves on Nov. 20, 2025, at the new bakery facility dedicated to the Italian bread. Led by Martinez, panettone made by the Cossetta’s team won first place across North and South America at a recent competition. (Jared Kaufman / Pioneer Press)

Panettone is famously difficult to master. The treat is a round loaf that starts with a fermented “mother” dough like sourdough, but with a buttery texture that rivals the silkiest croissant. Loaves are flavored with orange and vanilla and speckled with candied fruit, and they cool upside-down in specialized racks so the domed tops don’t collapse. Start to finish, a single batch takes anywhere from 50 to 70 hours and requires near-constant attention.

“This ain’t for the weak at heart,” Cossetta said after a ribbon-cutting ceremony for the new kitchen space. “We’re serious.”

And already, Martinez and his team make the best panettone on the continent: In September, team Cossetta’s swept at the biannual Panettone World Cup Americas Division, winning the top prize for traditional panettone in the U.S. for the fourth consecutive time and being named the best panettone overall across North and South America.

During the ribbon-cutting event on Nov. 20, St. Paul Mayor-elect Kaohly Her lauded Cossetta’s success at producing traditional foods like panettone as a win for St. Paul and an example of the long-term rootedness of immigrant-founded cultural business in the city.

“Not only is this a validation of the dreams that our ancestors bring with when they start something new, but it’s also a validation of our city — that we can grow businesses, grow restaurants that produce products on this level,” she told the crowd of about 200.

Cossetta’s new panettone kitchen includes both must-haves — a humidity-controlled environment for the fermented “mother” dough; rotating proofing boxes and ovens; a mixer that can hold about 500 pounds of dough — plus some new bells and whistles. With a roller coaster-esque chain lift, one particularly staggering contraption elevates the gargantuan mixing bowl about eight feet in the air and slowly rotates it, dumping the dough cleanly onto a wooden work surface so chefs don’t have to manually transfer a quarter-ton of dense dough before shaping it into loaves by hand.

And from the new kitchen, Dave Cossetta hopes Martinez and his longtime team of panettone chefs Rafael Morán, Ariana Anaro Montoya and Carelys Santeaga — who between them have more than seven decades of pastry experience at Cossetta’s alone — can launch the bakery’s panettone upward in the global World Cup rankings.

A half-loaf of Cossetta’s panettone sits on a pedestal alongside a trophy on Nov. 20, 2025, at a ribbon-cutting ceremony for the company’s new panettone bakery facility. (Jared Kaufman / Pioneer Press)

Cossetta’s win at the Americas Division this fall qualifies the team to once again compete at the Coppa del Mondo del Panettone, the world championships, in Milan next fall. Martinez and Morán also qualified to bring Cossetta’s panettone to the World Cup in 2024 but did not earn a medal. In March, Ton Cortés, the renowned Barcelona baker who won the 2024 World Cup, spent about six days at Cossetta’s, helping Martinez and the team test batches and refine recipes.

Traditionally, panettone is only served around Christmas. Cossetta’s sells a smaller pound cake-sized version of the treat year-round, but Dave Cossetta hopes the high quality of Cossetta’s classic panettone will turn the domed cakes into a regular treat, too. And if you ask the people who make it, the plan seems to be working.

“Panettone is getting more demand now than ever,” Morán said.

Panettone is on sale now at Cossetta’s in St. Paul (211 W. 7th St.; 651-222-3476) starting at $42.95 and is set to be priced for e-commerce at $79.95, including shipping and a gift box.

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Dining Diary: We checked out four holiday pop-up bars in the Twin Cities

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It’s that time of year when twinkle lights and tinsel bring folks through the door of local restaurants.

The bar at Nico’s Tacos in Uptown, transformed for the restaurant’s holiday pop-up Nico’s Navidad. (Jess Fleming / Pioneer Press)

To that end, holiday pop-ups are springing up like daisies throughout the Twin Cities, and I had a chance to check out a few of them over the past week.

Hitting one of these decked-out bars is a great excuse for a holiday friends’ get-together or a festive date night, but they are popular, so I recommend reservations if you can get them.

Nico’s Navidad at Nico’s Tacos

This local taqueria and tequila bar has expanded its over-the-top Nico’s Navidad to all three locations (St. Paul, Uptown, and 50th and Penn) this year.

My daughter, who loves Christmas, was in town, and I wanted to meet up with a friend who lives in Uptown, so we hit the Hennepin Avenue location.

We were greeted by lights and greenery outside, giving way to a life-sized Grinch on the porch of the historic home the restaurant is in.

The restaurant takes advantage of its numerous rooms, with each sporting a different vibe. The upstairs bar was probably my favorite, with cotton-candy clouds over blinking lights, red and white garland, candy canes, and Santa hats everywhere.

The food menu is the same as always, but the drink menu has been updated to include tons of holiday flavors and cute names like Sleigh Queen, Claus’ Kiss and Grinch Guzzler. I tried all three of those, and can highly recommend any of them. They’re served in adorable ceramic Christmas-themed tiki mugs, too.

Nico’s Tacos: 2516 Hennepin Ave. S., Minneapolis; 2260 Como Ave., St. Paul; and 4959 Penn Ave. S., Minneapolis; nicostacobar.com

Jingle Giles at Earl Giles Distillery

Earl Giles Distillery in Northeast Minneapolis, all decked out for its Jingle Giles holiday pop-up. (Jess Fleming / Pioneer Press)
Rick’s Pickle Dip at the Jingle Giles pop-up at Earl Giles Distillery in Northeast Minneapolis. (Jess Fleming / Pioneer Press)

Every inch of this cavernous distillery has been covered in lights, garland, inflatable Christmas characters, bows, snowflakes and more.

And the food and drink menu have both been been transformed. Glittery drinks infused with all the flavors of the season — evergreen, gingerbread, candy canes, cranberries and more — are as tasty as they are Instagrammable.

And the fairly extensive food menu is like a Midwestern potluck holiday table and a trendy eatery had a baby. We loved Rick’s Pickle Dip, loaded with pickles, dill and bacon, and the fried Brussels sprouts, dressed for Christmas with dried cranberries and an airy walnut crema.

And no Minnesota holiday menu would be complete without Swedish meatballs, which are served in a little cast-iron skillet.

Earl Giles: 1325 Quincy St. N.E., Minneapolis; 612-345-5305; earlgiles.com

King Coil

A cocktail at King Coil Distillery in St. Paul. (Jess Fleming / Pioneer Press)

The decor here might be a little sparse compared with some of the Christmas-threw-up-in-here aesthetics on this list, but there’s plenty of sparkle, and the drink menu is fully festive, featuring flavors ranging from burnt cookies to cranberries to blue-cheese-washed vodka to sugar plums.

In addition, King Coil is hosting a variety of holiday events, including “Elf” and “The Muppets Christmas Carol” trivia, ornament painting, and a last-minute holiday market. Check their website for details.

King Coil Spirits: 550 Vandalia St., St. Paul; 651-243-0380; kingcoilspirits.com

Dorit’s Tavern at Surly Brewing

The 3 Rules pizza at the Surly Brewing holiday pop-up, called Dorit’s Tavern. (Jess Fleming / Pioneer Press)

The creative minds at Surly have transformed the Pizza Upstairs space into a Gremlins-inspired dive bar (the name is a play on Dorry’s Tavern, where Kate works).

Besides the over-the-top Christmas decor and Gremlins decals, there is a stellar 1980s playlist, the movie playing on a loop, and some special holiday drinks. Green and red seltzers (this is a brewery, so in Minnesota, they can’t serve actual cocktails) can be served in a single serving or in a giant tin can and lit on fire — the cost is $84, because the movie was made in 1984. That concoction serves 6-8 people. But I prefer the Grinchy Jell-O shots, topped with a little dollop of whipped cream.

Food-wise, there’s a special 3 Rules pizza (named for the three rules that must be followed when caring for mogwai), topped with soppressata, pepperoncini, red sauce, garlic, basil and cheese, a jalapeno popper dip, a trio of pickle roll-ups and house-made pork rinds. We tried the pizza (fabulous) and the pickle rolls (just like grandma made).

The brewery doesn’t usually take reservations, but they do for this pop-up.

Surly Brewing: 520 Malcolm Ave. S.E., Minneapolis; 763-999-4040; surlybrewing.com

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Today in History: November 26, President Nixon’s secretary says she caused Watergate tape gap

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Today is Wednesday, Nov. 26, the 330th day of 2025. There are 35 days left in the year.

Today in history:

On Nov. 26, 1973, President Richard Nixon’s personal secretary, Rose Mary Woods, told a federal court she’d accidentally caused part of the 18 1/2-minute erasure of a key Watergate tape. The gap was in a 1972 recording of a conversation between Nixon and his chief of staff.

Also on this date:

In 1791, President George Washington held his first full cabinet meeting; in attendance were Secretary of State Thomas Jefferson, Secretary of the Treasury Alexander Hamilton, Secretary of War Henry Knox and Attorney General Edmund Randolph.

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In 1864, English mathematician Charles Dodgson presented the illustrated manuscript “Alice’s Adventures Under Ground” to his friend Alice Pleasance Liddell, 12, a book later published under the pen name Lewis Carroll as “Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland.”

In 1917, the National Hockey League was founded in Montreal, succeeding the National Hockey Association.

In 1941, U.S. Secretary of State Cordell Hull delivered a note to Japan’s ambassador to the United States, Kichisaburo Nomura, setting forth U.S. demands for “lasting and extensive peace throughout the Pacific area.” The same day, a Japanese naval task force of six aircraft carriers left the Kuril Islands, bound for Hawaii, days before the attack on Pearl Harbor.

In 1942, the film “Casablanca,” starring Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman, premiered at the Hollywood Theater in New York City.

In 1998, two trains collided in the northern town of Khanna, India, killing 210 people in one of that country’s deadliest rail disasters.

In 2000, Florida Secretary of State Katherine Harris certified Republican George W. Bush the winner over Democrat Al Gore in the state’s presidential balloting by a 537-vote margin. The U.S. Supreme Court ultimately stopped recounts of the vote, and Bush won Florida’s 25 electoral votes and the presidential election.

In 2008, teams of heavily armed militants from the terrorist group Lashkar-e-Taiba stormed luxury hotels, a popular restaurant and a crowded train station in Mumbai, India, leaving at least 175 people dead (including nine of the attackers) in a rampage spanning four days.

In 2011, a rocket carrying NASA’s Mars Science Laboratory Curiosity rover lifted off from Cape Canaveral, Florida.

In 2019, a 6.4-magnitude earthquake struck Albania, killing at least 49 people, injuring some 2,000 others and leaving at least 4,000 homeless.

Today’s Birthdays:

Impressionist Rich Little is 87.
Football Hall of Famer Jan Stenerud is 83.
Author Marilynne Robinson is 82.
Bass guitarist John McVie (Fleetwood Mac) is 80.
Football Hall of Famer Art Shell is 79.
Sen. Shelley Moore Capito, R-W.Va., is 72.
Football Hall of Famer Harry Carson is 72.
NASCAR Hall of Famer Dale Jarrett is 69.
Country singer Linda Davis is 63.
Actor-TV personality Garcelle Beauvais is 59.
Actor Peter Facinelli is 52.
DJ-music producer DJ Khaled (KAL’-ehd) is 50.
Country musician Joe Nichols is 49.
Pop singer Natasha Bedingfield is 44.
Actor-singer-TV personality Rita Ora is 35.