Other voices: Imagine how well the economy would be doing without these tariff tax increases

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The U.S. economy has been marked this year by the paradox of a rising stock market but a slowing labor market. Could the explanation be a productivity boom, led in part by artificial intelligence? That seems possible given last month’s report that the economy grew a robust 4.3% in the third quarter.

The report, delayed by the government shutdown, came in well above most forecasts. Consumer confidence is down in surveys, but you wouldn’t know it from the healthy 2.4 percentage-point contribution to third quarter GDP. Healthcare, prescription drugs and international travel were leading contributors, with healthcare accounting for a third of the increase. Is this an Ozempic boom?

Airlines have reported that wealthier customers are traveling abroad more, and a buoyant stock market lifted by AI may make them feel richer. If your stock portfolio is up 20% over the year, why not holiday in Rome?

One concern is that spending is uneven, with many companies reporting a pullback by lower- and middle-income consumers. General Mills said last month that consumers earning less than $100,000 a year are buying more food at price promotions. Chipotle in October reported a slowdown in spending among younger and less affluent customers.

Another concern is inflation. The core personal consumption expenditure price index (less food and energy) rose 2.9% in the third quarter, versus 2.6% in the second. Yet disposable personal income increased only 2.8% and the savings rate fell to 4.2%. People aren’t going to feel better about the economy until their incomes keep up with rising prices.

An increase in net exports supplied 1.6 percentage points to growth. Much of this owes to a decline in imports, following the import boom early in the year as businesses tried to front-run tariffs. A decline in imports isn’t healthy if it means higher prices for consumers or U.S. businesses that become less competitive because they pay more for components. Business investment in equipment continued its healthy growth (AI?), though overall private investment was down owing to declines in residential housing and business structures.

Trumponomics boils down to a bet that the pro-growth impact of deregulation and tax reduction can offset the damage from tariffs, which are tax increases. Imagine how well the economy would be doing without tariffs.

— The Wall Street Journal

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F.D. Flam: Experimenting on dogs is getting harder to defend

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Medical experiments on research dogs could be phased out soon — a change that’s based as much on science as ethics. Pressure is coming from within the scientific community as well as from activists, following a string of scandals involving inhumane living conditions. It follows a similar phase-out in the last decade of the use of captive chimpanzees, which was driven by growing recognition of chimpanzee intelligence and the close evolutionary kinship between our species and theirs.

Two areas of science are precipitating change. Scientists are developing new types of human cell cultures and other alternatives that may mimic human disease at least as well as animals, while new research has revealed the depth of animal cognition and the richness of their emotional lives.

Scientists in government, universities, hospitals and private companies use thousands of dogs a year, often subjecting them to isolation, confinement in small, barren cages, and painful procedures. Some are force-fed high doses of pesticides, fungicides, or other hazardous chemicals.

Ethics should inform what scientists are permitted to do and how animals should be treated, but science informs our ethical guidelines.

A common argument in favor of animal research is historical: animals were used to develop insulin, organ transplantation and blood transfusions. That justification rests on an untestable assumption — that these discoveries could not have been made in other ways, even if progress would have been slower.

In an opinion column that ran earlier this year in the Washington Post, Jane Goodall and evolutionary biologist Marc Bekoff detailed the ways dogs suffer from the research itself, as well as from the isolation, boredom and confinement that accompany being a lab dog. This is no longer just a projection of the way we’d feel under those circumstances. A growing body of research has shown that being caged and isolated causes stress in dogs. Similar studies have revealed stress and self-harm among caged research monkeys.

Bekoff and Goodall wrote that most research dogs are beagles, which are bred to be obedient and trusting. The scientists call this a “betrayal of man’s best friend.” The general public’s attitude is also shifting. A Gallup poll this year showed Americans split evenly on the morality of experimenting on any animal, with disapproval of animal research slowly increasing across the board.

One reason is growing visibility. In 2018, a panel assembled by the National Academies of Sciences, Engineering and Medicine reviewed dog research at four Veterans Administration facilities after activists released footage of apparent inhumane treatment. The panel was led by urologist, flight surgeon and Gulf War veteran Rhonda Cornum.

The 2020 report concluded that only a small number of dog experiments might still be necessary for certain research programs. The report also deemed justifications based on historical breakthroughs to represent “circular reasoning” since we don’t know what’s possible with other methods. The study also noted that some data relevant to human health can be obtained by enrolling sick dogs in clinical trials, which might benefit them.

Adding to the pressure to change the way dogs are treated were scandals exposing inhumane conditions at several industrial facilities that breed thousands of lab dogs. In 2021, USDA inspectors found 70 violations of the Animal Welfare Act at the major facility called Envigo in Cumberland, Virginia. The inspectors documented puppy deaths, untreated illness and injury, and dogs kept in cramped cages in extreme heat amid a stench of urine and feces. Under pressure, the facility shut down in 2022.

Another breeding facility, Ridglan Farms in Wisconsin, was the subject of a criminal investigation into inhumane conditions. In October, the owners agreed to stop supplying beagles for research as part of a settlement with federal authorities.

It’s still hard to get good data on the number of dogs used for different kinds of experiments — whether for basic science aimed at understanding physiology, medical research aimed at particular diseases, or toxicology to test chemicals. USDA data show more than 40,000 research dogs are used annually.

There’s also no scientific basis for the view that lab dogs are inherently different from pets, or that they were somehow not meant to be companion animals. People who’ve adopted the small fraction of lab beagles set free have found they’re just like any other dog. This reminded me of the science fiction novel “Never Let Me Go,” about human clones who serve as organ donors for “normal” people.

Today, some organizations opposing animal research have found allies on the political right, such as the White Coat Waste Project, which has highlighted numerous abuses. Support from both sides of the political divide could help create the impetus for real change. Researchers are actively developing human alternatives, including various configurations of human cells and tissues. But developing and testing those takes money.

Being pro-science doesn’t have to include a belief in progress at all costs. It can mean accepting — and being guided by — the findings of existing science, including what they tell us about our kinship with other animals.

F.D. Flam is a Bloomberg Opinion columnist covering science. She is host of the “Follow the Science” podcast.

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Minnesota receives $193M from federal rural health program

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The Centers for Medicare & Medicare Services will award $193 million to the Minnesota Department of Health to be used on bolstering rural health care, the state agency announced Tuesday.

It’s the state’s first year of funding through the Rural Health Transformation Program, a five-year funding program that President Donald Trump signed into law in July.

MDH applied for the funding in November, asking for $1 billion over five years.

“With rural Minnesota facing unprecedented access and funding challenges, this award comes at a crucial time,” said Minnesota Commissioner of Health Dr. Brooke Cunningham. “It is an important investment in our rural communities, and we are excited to begin working with our partners to advance access to high-quality care, improve outcomes and ensure sustainable services in Greater Minnesota for years to come.”

The funding “will support strategic investments” in technology-enabled care delivery, growing the rural health care workforce and improving outcomes for those who have or are at risk of diabetes, chronic kidney disease and cardiovascular disease, MDH said in a news release.

“Minnesota’s approved plan,” MDH said, “was built on extensive collaboration with rural community stakeholders, hospitals and health systems, safety net clinics, Tribes and local public health agencies.”

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Our favorite dishes and drinks from 2025

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It’s hard to believe that 2025 is over.

Before we move on, we thought we’d take one more look back at the year that was. Here, in no particular order, are our favorite bites and sips from last year.

RELATED: 2025 restaurant openings and closings (and coming soon)

Our 10 favorite dishes

Sticky Jicama Ribs from Khue’s Kitchen

Sticky jicama ribs at Khue’s Kitchen on St. Paul’s Raymond Avenue. (Jess Fleming / Pioneer Press)

If you haven’t been to this Vietnamese-American gem on Raymond Avenue, I can’t recommend it highly enough. While everything on the menu is awesome, it’s these sticky jicama ribs that I can’t get out of my brain.

They are not ribs at all, but a combo of jicama and tofu that is so texturally perfect and punch-you-in-the-mouth flavorful that I’d eat them over a plate of real ribs any day.

Chef Eric Pham, whose family owns Minneapolis Vietnamese restaurant Quang, took his own path to owning a restaurant, cutting his teeth in the Spoon and Stable kitchen. Pham has created something special here, with the quality, beauty and cravability of his food transcending the less-than-perfect atmosphere of Mid City Kitchen, a commissary kitchen that operates in the space during the day.

Khue’s Kitchen: 693 Raymond Ave., St. Paul; 612-600-9139; khueskitchen.com

— J.F.

Dark Horse cheeseburger

The Dark Horse Burger at Dark Horse Bar & Eatery in St. Paul. (Jess Fleming / Pioneer Press)

I passed the baton for our annual burger story to Jared this year — a 50-something woman simply cannot eat that many burgers — but that doesn’t mean I don’t love a good one.

And this one was good enough that I ate it twice this year. Chef Shane Oporto, who has brought one of our favorite bars back from the dead with a brand-new and better-than-ever menu, is grinding brisket, sirloin and chuck fresh every day for this stunner. It’s a smash burger so it has those crispy edges, but it’s still incredibly juicy. And the cheese! It’s a slow-melted combo of Taleggio and two-year Vermont cheddar that envelops the patty in the very best way. There are caramelized onions for a little sweetness and tasty burger sauce, all on a pillowy brioche bun.

It’s a don’t-miss dish, for sure.

Dark Horse Bar & Eatery: 250 E. Seventh St., St. Paul; 651-313-7960; darkhorsestp.com

— J.F.

Tortelloni bolognese at DeGidio’s

Tortelloni bolognese at DeGidio’s on St. Paul’s West Seventh Street. (Jess Fleming / Pioneer Press)

For many years, I tended to stick to anything with red sauce at this fantastic, old-school Italian-American restaurant.

That all changed this year when I ordered the tortelloni bolognese on a whim.

What a smart whim that was! The tortelloni are house-made, with the tender pasta giving way to a creamy, cheesy inside, and the bolognese is silky, meaty, tomatoey perfection.

Now I’m on a mission to try more of the menu.

DeGidio’s: 425 W. Seventh St., St. Paul; 651-360-1905; degidios.com

— J.F.

Wild rice porridge at Demi

Wild rice porridge is served at Demi, a tasting-counter restaurant from chef Gavin Kaysen in Minneapolis, on March 26, 2025. (Jared Kaufman / Pioneer Press)

For my birthday dinner this year, we shelled out for a meal at Demi, chef Gavin Kaysen’s tasting-counter spot in downtown Minneapolis. Several of the nine courses had a Japanese twist, which was fun, but the springtime menu was at its most interesting when the restaurant’s talented chefs played with up-north ingredients like venison, black walnut and wild rice.

Along these lines, the highlight of the evening was a wild rice porridge with crispy duck confit and charred broccolini all atop an airy, nutty, oniony parmesan soubisse sauce. The dish may not have been the evening’s sexiest-looking offering, but it was certainly the most texturally marvellous. Every bite was a discovery. (But watch out where you park: A trip to retrieve a towed car was unexpectedly also on the evening’s menu.)

Demi: 212 N. Second St., Minneapolis; demimpls.com

— J.K.

Gyro at Skyway Grill

If you don’t work downtown nor regularly wander the skyways, Skyway Grill might not be on your radar — and that’s too bad. Scott Johnson makes an Italian beef sandwich that’s a meat-lover’s dream and nearly a dozen burgers named for St. Paul spots, but my go-to is the gyro. The meat is ground and griddle-fried, rather than shaved from a rotisserie, so it stays juicy as all get-out. Most of the toppings are classic (tzatziki, cucumber, tomato, onion) and the “feisty feta” spread is a kicky topper to a great lunch.

Skyway Grill: 401 Robert St. N. No. 223; 651-243-4578; skywaygrillanddeli.com

— J.K.

Fawaffle at Baba’s

The Fawaffle at Baba’s, a new food at the 2025 Minnesota State Fair. (Jess Fleming / Pioneer Press)

As an avowed scholar of Minnesota State Fair food, I notice some clear formulas that vendors use to concoct their new foods at each year’s Get-Together. One classic route is to smash two seemingly unrelated items together; sometimes it works (the much-missed Tot Dog) and sometimes it doesn’t (the Uncrustaburger). A similar emerging strategy involves putting a cultural twist on a recognizable favorite, as Yia Vang does so well at Union Hmong Kitchen.

At the 2025 Fair, we got a masterclass on nailing both these strategies from Baba’s, the hummus shop in Minneapolis that slings Palestinian food from an Airstream on the Fairgrounds. Sweeter than classic Middle Eastern falafel and more herbaceously hearty than a waffle, the Fawaffle made for an unexpectedly perfect breakfast or lunch or snack or dessert. Although the Fawaffle is a State Fair exclusive, the rest of Baba’s year-round menu makes the Minneapolis cafe a worthwhile drive.

Baba’s: year-round at 2220 Lyndale Ave. S., Minneapolis; 612-254-8884; lovebabas.com

— J.K.

Ahi tuna from Meritage

Ahi tuna ribbons at Meritage in St. Paul. (Jess Fleming / Pioneer Press)

My husband and I had a perfect pre-concert meal on the lovely terrace at this French restaurant downtown this summer.

While everything we ate (as usual) was fantastic, I can’t stop thinking about this beautiful dish, which consisted of ribbons of fantastic ahi tuna, bathed in a spicy Thai vinaigrette and topped with a beautiful, tasty peanut tuille. It took raw fish to a whole new level, and it’s the kind of thing I’ve come to expect from chef Russell Klein and his best-in-class staff. We are so lucky to have Meritage.

Meritage: 410 St. Peter St., St. Paul; 651-222-5670; meritage-stpaul.com

— J.F.

Lao smash burger at Soul Lao

The Lao Smash Burger, served by Soul Lao on Oct. 16, 2025, is inspired by a spicy Lao sausage that contains lemongrass, galangal and fish sauce. (Jared Kaufman / Pioneer Press)

While researching this year’s burger guide, I ate an ungodly amount of ground beef between buns. This is not a complaint, of course — meatiness is next to godliness, as they say — but the most transcendent was the Lao Smash Burger at Highland Park strip mall spot Soul Lao. The all-beef patties are inspired by sai oua, a classic spicy Lao sausage containing lemongrass, ginger-like galangal and fish sauce, and the whole thing is topped with caramelized onions and sticky American cheese that cuts through the spice a bit. The result is a super-umami bite that pushes the boundary of what a burger can be.

Soul Lao: 2465 W. Seventh St.; 651-363-3469; soullao.com

— J.K.

Johnny Cake at Altera

Sometimes, the simplest things are the best. This cornbread/pancake is browned and crispy on the outside and light and fluffy on the inside. It’s good with regular maple syrup, but if you enjoy spice, the jalapeno maple syrup is definitely the move. It adds heat, but also subtle vegetal goodness.

I went to the restaurant twice this spring, and both times, my dining companions and I devoured the entire plate, swooning the entire time.

Altera: 721 S. Cleveland Ave., St. Paul; 651-788-7009; alterarestaurant.com

— J.F.

Fish fry from St. Paul Brewing

The perch and sunfish fish fry at Saint Paul Brewing. (Jess Fleming / Pioneer Press)

If you’ve been around these parts for a while, you know how much I love a perch fish fry. And you also know how hard it is to find in Minnesota — land of 10,000 lakes! I have never understood it.

Anyway, St. Paul Brewing added a perch and sunfish fish fry this year, and I could not be more pleased. It’s breaded, not battered, which means the fish are super crisp, unlike the beer-battered fish that is so popular at restaurants here. Just writing this makes me look forward to Lent.

St. Paul Brewing: 688 E. Minnehaha Ave., St. Paul; 651-698-1945; stpaulbrewing.com

— J.F.

Five favorite drinks

Wondrous Punch at Dark Horse Bar & Eatery

Wondrous Punch at Dark Horse Bar & Eatery in St. Paul’s Lowertown. (Jess Fleming / Pioneer Press)

Friends and I sampled our way through a bunch of drinks on the menu at this Lowertown gem, and they are all seriously delicious.

But the one that really lands the cocktail program at Dark Horse among our favorites is this reimagination of the noxious drink from Red Dragon in Minneapolis. Chef Shane Oporto told us that he’s pretty sure the restaurant used a commercial tropical punch as the base for the drink, but Dark Horse makes the drink upscale and delicious while still bringing back all the memories.

The drink contains several rums, tropical juices and banana oleo, a kind of sweetener made by macerating banana peels in sugar. It’s served in a recycled soy sauce bottle — you pour it yourself over a giant ice cube. And surprise! The drink also comes with a mini-order of delicate cream-cheese wontons.

Dark Horse Bar & Eatery: 250 E. Seventh St., St. Paul; 651-313-7960; darkhorsestp.com

Pink Pony Club at Emerald Lounge

The Pink Pony Club at Emerald Lounge in St. Paul. (Jess Fleming / Pioneer Press)

My Gen X friends and I very much enjoy the Gen Z stylings of Chappell Roan, and particularly this sweet sing-along-friendly song, so when I saw that Emerald Lounge had a drink named for it, we had to go try it.

And though creamy, sweet drinks are usually not my jam, this pretty, pale pink concoction is a happy exception. It’s fruity, smooth and not too sweet at all. The base liquor is trakal, a Patagonian spirit made from crab apples and pears. It’s married with framboise raspberry beer, dry vermouth, lemon and a touch of cream. My friend said it reminded her of sherbet, and that is totally the vibe, but with a little herbaceous backbone.

Emerald Lounge: 455 W. Seventh St., St. Paul; 651-410-1650; emeraldstpaul.com

Le Gimlet at The Commodore

There was a time in my 20s when I was obsessed with gimlets — made with Rose’s Lime Juice. Listen, it was a different time.

Anyway, the classic gimlet at this newly reopened Art Deco bar on Cathedral Hill employs Dampfwerk London Dry Gin, freshly squeezed lime juice and a dash of absinthe to make a simple, perfect drink. It goes great with the beautiful atmosphere at The Commodore, too. We’re so happy the space is open again.

The Commodore: 79 N. Western Ave., St. Paul; 651-842-9098; thecommodorebar.com

Black Duck Old Fashioned at Black Duck Spirits and Hearth

The Black Duck Old Fashioned cocktail is served at Black Duck Spirits and Hearth in Minneapolis on Oct. 8, 2025. The drink contains duck fat-infused rye whiskey and Mexican Nixta corn liqueur. (Jared Kaufman / Pioneer Press)

Old-fashioned might not be the best name for the Black Duck Old Fashioned, a standout beverage at Black Duck Spirits and Hearth in Minneapolis. Sure, it’s modeled after that classic cocktail, but this version is completely newfangled in the best way.

Foremost, infusing the rye whiskey with duck fat gives the whole thing a silky, roasty-earthy richness that’s accentuated by the complex Mexican Nixta liqueur. The sweet/smoky edge from burnt agave syrup is slight but welcome. It’s as if a Corn Nut dreamed of becoming a cocktail, which is right up my alley.

Black Duck Spirits and Hearth: 2900 Johnson St. N.E., Minneapolis; 612-331-1421; blackduckmpls.com

— J.K.

Devil’s Egg at CrowBar

CrowBar, the new lounge at the Voliere Spirits distillery in the Hamm’s Brewing complex on the East Side, is quickly becoming one of my favorite cocktail spots. Although both businesses just opened after Thanksgiving, vintage touches give the bar a lived-in, nostalgic vibe, and, like other old-school Midwestern dives, there’s a deviled egg on the menu — sort of.

The Devil’s Egg, a tropical coconut and passion fruit Jell-O shot, is served at CrowBar on the East Side on Dec. 19, 2025. (Jared Kaufman / Pioneer Press)

The Devil’s Egg, despite its deceptive look, is not a real deviled egg. It’s a Jell-O shot, and one of the most creative bar snacks I’ve tasted all year. The “egg white” is basically a firm coconut and white rum panna cotta, the “yolk” is a passion fruit creme and the “herbs” on top are made from sun-dried black Persian lime. The lime seasoning gives it a tart and almost vegetal depth, but at its core, it’s an adult dessert, sweet and tropical and unmistakably spiked.

CrowBar: 704 E. Minnehaha Ave., St. Paul; 651-571-9276; crowbarstp.com

— J.K.

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