Stefanos Geroulanos: Why would anyone want a paleo diet? We’re desperate for half-truths about human origins

posted in: News | 0

Can anyone offer a compelling, accurate story that explains the nature of humanity from its earliest origins? Scientist-intellectuals have tried to do so at least since the sci-fi author H.G. Wells struck gold in 1919 with “The Outline of History,” his influential attempt at telling “the whole story of man.” This effort endures as a trend. Jared Diamond, E.O. Wilson, Yuval Noah Harari, and David Graeber and David Wengrow are just some of the more recent authors to attempt grand accounts that veer from their professional training — and presume to explain human nature itself.

Offering as much entertainment as scientific truth, these books are often hits, met with breathless claims that they radically transform all we knew about humanity. Harari’s “Sapiens: A Brief History of Humankind” has sold some 25 million copies, counting Barack Obama and prominent Silicon Valley bros among his apostles. It argues that cognition and language produce beliefs that are shared across large groups to enable cooperation. The book imagines humanity as simply conceiving a picture and acting to make it true — like a developer designing and releasing an app — and it ignores individuals’ divergent problems, societies, thoughts and lives.

More recently, Graeber and Wengrow sought in “The Dawn of Everything” to take down the myths of endless progress (exemplified in Steven Pinker’s unshakeable belief in it ). Their book frames the anarchic lives of early human groups, who survived by moving among different kinds of social organization, as a celebration of biodiversity and flexibility against social hierarchies.

The question isn’t whether such tales are correct. Perhaps the clearest picture they produce is that our origins are complex enough that we can pick just about any guiding idea and find enough evidence to sustain it across the “human journey.” The real question is why we have such a gluttonous appetite for these stories. What makes us needy for half-truths in this genre?

Some of it has to do with the difficulty we face in understanding our world and answering basic questions about our existence: When was humanity born? What in particular made humans human? Were the early millennia a gruesome hellhole we were fortunate to escape, or a warm-hearted, halcyon era that we should strive to re-create? For a long time, our answers to these questions have used the past to guide our present and further contemporary agendas.

European and American archaeologists significantly shaped these efforts in the decade around Darwin’s “On the Origin of Species,” published in 1859. They got famous from the tools and skulls they dug out, and from the way they compared societies distant in space or time, concluding that humanity’s ancestors resembled today’s Indigenous peoples. By comparison, they thought themselves to be the pinnacle of human achievement. Then, after World War I, much of Europe went into a racial panic that colonial populations would rise up and overwhelm civilization. So they pushed a historical narrative that defined Indigenous peoples as “primitives” — vestiges of the oldest years of humanity.

But the real obsession with prehistory began after World War II, when the collapse of Nazi Germany breathed life into three conflicting social goals that influenced public intellectuals. The first, in the wake of the Holocaust, was the desire to end racism. Organizations like UNESCO, relying on anthropologists, sociologists and geneticists, published histories explicitly aimed at emphasizing human unity and equality. Intellectuals across Europe, the U.S. and the Soviet bloc agreed: Science had to be wielded against the racism that had dominated recent decades and lived on. By 1970, prehistory was being taught around the world, in Poland, Kenya and Texas. Time-Life published lushly illustrated books telling a common human story, while the BBC and other channels beamed shows such as ” The Ascent of Man” into living rooms.

The second goal was to explain violence. When Africa was recognized as the site of humanity’s origin, this came at a cost. Some scientists treated australopithecine ancestors — the evolutionary links between apes and humans — as savage creatures with an unslakable blood thirst. Robert Ardrey and other popular writers drew a straight line from that brutality to make the atom bomb almost inevitable. Humans were wired for destruction — violence supposedly hid inside everyone, just beneath a thin veneer of civilization. Neurologists and animal ethologists sought the bodily headwaters from which our natural aggression sprang forth.

Racism, supposedly banished, reared its head as the story circulated that humans’ innate propensity for violence survived in faraway peoples — far away from the West, that is. Explanations to justify existing social power structures multiplied: the “Man the Hunter” theory, for example, which proposed that early men led testosterone-filled hunts and war while the women (surprise!) did the gathering and hearth-keeping. Well-intentioned ethnographic films about “primitive warfare” made things worse. Audiences across the Global North could celebrate anew how far they had come from that life and view people of the Global South fighting for independence from colonialism as murderous, just like our human ancestors.

The third goal of the era’s fixation on prehistory was the most selfish. Every new science since the mid-century, including sociobiology and neuroscience, has claimed to answer the big questions about humanity’s meaning. No matter how controversial the research that supports them, such answers raise a field’s profile in the public sphere dramatically. And even after philosophers had discarded concepts like “human nature” as ill-defined and passé, the public had not.

Paleontologists usurped the place other intellectuals had left empty and became the go-to speakers for these ideas. The more religious conservatives fought against Darwin, the more TV stations gave airtime to scientists who offered answers for the fundamental questions of human existence. Audiences learned to link modern art to prehistory and inquire about Neanderthal DNA. The harder it was to come up with a strict definition of humanity, the more narratives about origins filled the void.

How much more do we know today about our ancient past? In terms of details, a lot more, such as the actual Neanderthal genome. But grand theories respond less to details than to other theories of the human experience that their proponents dislike.

Feminist archaeologists in the 1970s, for example, shaped their scientific findings to battle the sexist “Man the Hunter” story. By the 1990s, the notion that prehistoric life was harmonious was criticized as condescending. Diamond responded to these pressures in “The World Until Yesterday” by reveling in tales of Native brutality and discarding specific ethnographic explanations of that violence. Graeber and Wengrow, like political scientist James Scott, instead blamed early state formations (and modern European biases) for violence. Paleozoologists still wrestle with outdated conceptions of brutish Neanderthals. And so on: The deep past becomes a plaything for us to endlessly debate our own political ideas.

The steady stream of scientific discoveries reaching our screens makes us yearn ever more for a complete explanation. Yet the explanations we get will have little to do with the emergence of humanity itself. Meanwhile, we ignore the question we should be asking: Do we really share that much with cave-and-savannah-dwelling hominids from long ago? Or have we destroyed the Earth so irrevocably that we are desperate for our ancestors to tell us how to live?

Stefanos Geroulanos, the director of the Remarque Institute and a professor of history at New York University, is the author of the forthcoming “The Invention of Prehistory.” He wrote this column for the Los Angeles Times.

Related Articles

Opinion |


Lawrence K. Zelvin: Fraudsters have artificial intelligence too

Opinion |


David French: Israel is making the same mistake America made in Iraq

Opinion |


Palma Joy Strand: Unlocking the power of difference, on purpose

Opinion |


Lynn Schmidt: A ‘grave counterintelligence threat’ aided Trump in 2016. He wants him back.

Opinion |


Tyler Cowen: How can countries make immigration work? Ask Canada

Crepes with asparagus, ricotta and lemon give the taste of spring

posted in: News | 0

Slender asparagus and fresh ricotta are easy to find in spring, and these savory crespelle offer a winning combination of the seasonal favorites.

Adapted from a recipe from Tuscan food writer and chef Giulia Scarpaleggia, the two ingredients are paired in a fresh and creamy filling for lacy, tender homemade crepes that can either be rolled up like burritos, or folded into elegant handkerchief-like triangles.

The asparagus is first simmered in boiling water until just tender and then pureed in a blender. The bright green puree then goes into a bowl with ricotta, grated Parmesan and just enough lemon zest and mint to cut through the richness of the dairy.

I baked the filled crepes on a parchment paper-covered cookie sheet, but you also could line them in a buttered casserole dish.

These are topped with a super-simple Bechamel sauce, but if you’re feeling adventurous, you also could drizzle the crepes with Hollandaise sauce. The chopped pistachios add a slightly crunchy, salty finish.

Asparagus and Ricotta Crepes

INGREDIENTS

For crepes:

1 1/3 cups whole milk, room temperature
1 cup all-purpose flour
3 large eggs
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
Generous pinch fine sea salt

For filling:

1 pound asparagus
2 cups fresh ricotta
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese
Zest of 1/2 lemon
3 or 4 mint leaves, finely chopped
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

For Bechamel sauce:

1-3/4 tablespoons butter
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
1-1/4 cups milk
Salt and pepper
Grated nutmeg

For garnish:

2 tablespoons pistachios, chopped
Fresh mint leaves
Olive oil

DIRECTIONS

Prepare crepe batter. Mix milk, flour, eggs, melted butter and salt in blender just until smooth. (It will be thin.) Cover batter and chill at least 15 minutes while you prepare filling, and up to 1 day.
Prepare filling. Remove woody ends from asparagus, then cook in a saucepan with 1 inch of boiling, salted water until just tender, 2 to 4 minutes depending on thickness of spears. Remove from hot water into a bowl of ice water to blanche, then remove and allow to dry on a paper towel.
Cut off and set aside tips. Place the rest of the asparagus into a food processor or blender and add just enough water (a teaspoon or 2) to blend until smooth.
Add puree to bowl with the ricotta, grated Parmesan, lemon zest and chopped mint. Season to taste with salt and pepper. If it’s too bland, add more Parmesan or a bit more lemon.

Prepare crepes:

Heat a large nonstick saute pan over medium heat. (I used a 9-inch shallow saute pan.) Brush pan with a little melted butter or paper towel soaked with olive oil.
Whisk crepe batter to combine, then pour about 1/4 cup into the pan, swirling it to cover the bottom of pan with a thin layer. Cook for 2 minutes, or until the crepe is golden brown on the edges. Carefully flip with a spatula and cook on the other side for 1 more minute. Remove to plate. (The first crepe might not be perfect, but that’s okay! It will ready the pan.)
Continue process until you have 12 crepes set aside and stacked. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Make Bechamel sauce:

Melt butter in saucepan on medium heat. Spoon in flour and whisk until golden brown and toasted.
Pour in cold milk in a thin stream, stirring to avoid lumps. Cook over medium-low heat until thickened, then season with salt, pepper and ground nutmeg.

Compose crepes:

Spread each crepe with the asparagus and ricotta filling, then roll them up as cannelloni or fold them as a handkerchief, first in half and then in half again.
Arrange in a casserole pan or on a rimmed baking sheet on top of parchment paper.
Drizzle the crepes with the Bechamel sauce, then decorate each with cooked tips of asparagus, chopped pistachios and a drizzle of olive oil.

Final steps:

Place pan in oven and bake for about 15-20 minutes, or until golden brown and bubbling on the sides.
Serve hot out of the pan, with more chopped mint as a garnish. You also can warm any leftovers in 350-degree oven.

Makes 10-12 crepes.

— adapted from julskitchen.com

Related Articles

Restaurants, Food and Drink |


A quick skillet turkey dinner you’ll make over and over again

Restaurants, Food and Drink |


A sneak peek of Diane’s Place, now open in Northeast Minneapolis

Restaurants, Food and Drink |


Quick Fix: Moroccan Burgers with Cucumber Slices and Tomatoes

Restaurants, Food and Drink |


A creamy, dreamy soup to make in the Instant Pot

Restaurants, Food and Drink |


Alary’s Bar in downtown St. Paul to reopen with new owner

A quick skillet turkey dinner you’ll make over and over again

posted in: News | 0

Bunches of fresh mint and piles of sugar snap peas are still weeks away from showing up at my local farmers market, but April’s lengthening days and warming temperatures already have me craving that classic spring pairing. Luckily, they can also be foraged right now at the supermarket down the street.

Usually, I toss my mint and sugar snaps into a big, ebullient salad, but I was more in the mood for something substantial that could be rounded out with a protein. So, I also picked up a package of ground turkey to turn everything into a satisfying and colorful skillet dinner.

Ground turkey is ideal for all manner of impromptu cooking. Not only is it economical and convenient, it’s also mild and adaptable, a chameleon-like ingredient that blends in wherever you use it. It can anchor almost any skillet meal when you sear it until golden and crisp, especially if you throw in enough vegetables and vivid seasonings to bring out its best.

Still, I wanted a pungent sauce to spark the sweetness of the peas and the easygoing turkey, blazing them out of their quiet complacency. For that, I borrowed some of the zesty, spicy flavors of larb.

Popular in Thailand and Laos, larb is at once crunchy and soft, fiery and cooling. It’s a dish of thrilling contrasts that shift from bite to bite — just the thing to perk up a turkey and snap pea meal.

As the turkey sputtered and crisped in the pan, I mixed together a simple larb-inspired sauce of lime juice, fish sauce and chile flakes, which I drizzled onto the meat once it was browned. Then I added the sugar snaps and covered the pan so they could steam in those savory juices.

Not wanting to add a step to my dinner, I skipped toasting and grinding rice into a powder (which is typical of most larb recipes), and finished the dish instead with some chopped roasted nuts to add richness and crunch. Then I folded in the mint.

In Thailand and Laos, larb is considered a hot-weather dish. But mint and sugar snap peas make this larb-inspired meal perfect for the chilly spring nights that herald their arrival.

Spicy Skillet Ground Turkey and Snap Peas

By Melissa Clark

Inspired by the bold and zesty flavors of a Thai larb, this easy skillet meal pairs nuggets of golden ground turkey with sugar snap peas and a mound of fresh herbs. The sauce, a combination of fish sauce, lime juice and red-pepper flakes, makes everything taste both bright and deep, while an optional sprinkling of chopped nuts adds richness and crunch. Serve over rice or rice noodles, or with flatbread.

Yield: 4 servings

Total time: 35 minutes

INGREDIENTS

3 tablespoons olive oil
1 red onion, halved and thinly sliced into half-moons
1 pound ground turkey
Salt, as needed
1/4 cup fresh lime juice (from 2 to 3 limes), more to taste
2 tablespoons fish sauce (or coconut aminos or soy sauce), more to taste
1/2 teaspoon red-pepper flakes
1/2 cup torn mint leaves, more for topping
1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro or basil, more for topping
3 scallions, thinly sliced, dark green parts saved for topping
1 pound sugar snap peas, trimmed
2 tablespoons chopped roasted cashews or peanuts (optional)

DIRECTIONS

Heat a large skillet over medium-high. Add the oil and red onion slices to the skillet and cook until soft and deeply brown, 7 to 10 minutes. Crumble in the ground turkey and a pinch of salt, breaking up the meat. Cook until crisp and dark brown, about 8 minutes.
While the turkey is cooking, whisk together the lime juice, fish sauce, red-pepper flakes, torn mint leaves, cilantro and scallion whites and light green parts. Pour the sauce into the skillet and add the sugar snap peas. Toss until combined. Cover and let the snap peas steam until tender and cooked through, about 3 to 5 minutes.
Taste and add more fish sauce, salt and lime juice as needed to make everything bright and savory. Stir in the chopped cashews or peanuts, if using. Top with more torn mint leaves, chopped cilantro and dark green scallion slices.

Related Articles

Restaurants, Food and Drink |


A sneak peek of Diane’s Place, now open in Northeast Minneapolis

Restaurants, Food and Drink |


Quick Fix: Moroccan Burgers with Cucumber Slices and Tomatoes

Restaurants, Food and Drink |


A creamy, dreamy soup to make in the Instant Pot

Restaurants, Food and Drink |


Alary’s Bar in downtown St. Paul to reopen with new owner

Restaurants, Food and Drink |


St. Paul brewery Burning Brothers to celebrate 10th anniversary with — what else? — beer and a fire-breathing show

Wild officially eliminated from postseason with 5-2 loss at Colorado

posted in: News | 0

It’s been a rough season for the Minnesota Wild, full of injuries to key players, big victories despite those injuries, and inexplicable losses that ultimately kept the team from making its fourth straight postseason tournament.

In the end, they were undone early by a 5-10-4 start from which they could never recover, but you can’t say they didn’t go down fighting. They’ve been playing winning hockey ever since, and were still a longshot to make the postseason.

That officially died on Tuesday in Denver, where the Wild rallied from an early two-goal deficit against playoff-bound Colorado before absorbing a 5-2 loss at Ball Arena that officially eliminated them from the playoffs with four regular-season games remaining.

Battling Tampa Bay’s Nikita Kucherov for the NHL points lead, Avalanche forward Nathan MacKinnon had a hat trick and assist as Colorado took a 5-2 second period lead and never looked back.

“Obviously, tonight’s tough,” Wild veteran blue liner Zach Bogosian told reporters who traveled to Denver for the game. “They’re a good team, and a player like MacKinnon — he can take over a game, and he showed tonight why he’s a world-class player.”

Kirill Kaprizov scored his 42nd goal of the season, and Matt Boldy scored his 27th to tie the game 2-2 after one period, but the Wild couldn’t stop the NHL’s best offense, which entered the game averaging a league-best 3.71 goals a game, or their best player.

MacKinnon beat Filip Gustavsson on three breakaways and had the first assist when Artturi Lehkonen opened the scoring with a power-play goal 4:34 into the game to give him 51 goals and 137 points this season. That’s two points behind Kucherov, who had three assists in Tampa Bay’s 5-2 victory over visiting Columbus to give him 139.

The Wild have four regular-season games remaining, on the road against Vegas, San Jose and Los Angeles, then the final at home against Seattle on April 18.

“Nothing changes,” coach John Hynes told reporters at Ball Arena. “An elite player made some elite plays tonight. I think with the other components of the game, that was a huge difference. I’m not down on the team.

“I don’t like the fact that we lost the game, but we’ve got to continue to compete hard and play and find ways to win.”

Gustavsson made 28 saves for the Wild. Cale Makar also scored a goal, and Alexandar Georgiev stopped 20 of 22 shots for the Avalanche, which swept the season series from their Central Division rival (0-3-1).

The Wild’s points ceiling is now 91, one fewer point than Vegas, holding the last playoff spot in the West, already has. Seventh-place Los Angeles had 93 points before their late game at Anaheim. They entered with a slim chance at the postseason because they were 7-3-3 since March 10, and 32-21-5 since Hynes replaced Dean Evason as head coach on Nov. 28.

But limited by $14.7 million in dead salary cap space, the result of buying out the contracts of Zach Parise and Ryan Suter in 2021, the Wild started the season with no margin for error or misfortune — and immediately had their share of both.

They lost captain Jared Spurgeon before the season started, getting him on the ice for only 16 games all season because of back and hip injuries, then had to weather injury absences by such key contributors as Kaprizov, Boldy, Gustavsson, Mats Zuccarello, Jonas Brodin and Marcus Foligno.

Despite that, they played some good hockey, twice beating Eastern Conference leader Boston with depleted lineups in December, and scoring seven third-period goals to rally past then-NHL points leader Vancouver, 10-7, in February.

But the Wild also lost some costly head-scratchers, most notably a 6-0 loss to Arizona and 3-2 setback against Anaheim, both at Xcel Energy Center, when they were making headway in January.

Asked why he thinks the Wild finished short this season after making the playoffs the past three seasons, veteran defenseman Brodin said, “I don’t know right now. I have no clue. I haven’t thought about that. We’ll see after the season. We’ll play hard the rest of the season and then see after.”

Related Articles

Minnesota Wild |


A bittersweet accomplishment for Wild’s Kirill Kaprizov

Minnesota Wild |


Wild stave off elimination with 4-0 victory at Chicago

Minnesota Wild |


Wild’s overtime gambit foiled in 2-1 overtime loss to Vegas

Minnesota Wild |


Kirill Kaprizov leads Wild in goals and points, and leading the way for rookie Marat Khusnutdinov

Minnesota Wild |


Wild beat Anaheim, 2-0, pull within 4 points of a playoff spot