Weeknight dishes: A quick stew with slow weekend vibes

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We were snowed in over the weekend, like millions of others, and cooking anything quickly was very far from my mind.

Instead, I loaded up my shopping list with the ingredients for chili made with dried beans, a long-burbling pork ragù, skillet chicken with harissa and dates, buttermilk waffles. It brought to mind something I think often about both cooking, the act, and Cooking, the New York Times app: There’s a place for recipes for rushed cooks on a busy Tuesday and for leisurely cooks on a languid Sunday, and sometimes that’s the same person, just on different days.

You shouldn’t eat less well just because you have stuff to do. But don’t forget about that gentle weekend-cooking energy, the dog-eared cookbooks, the waffle iron that may or may not be gathering dust in its sticky pockets. I’ve got great recipes for you below.

1. Chicken and White Bean Stew

As gentle to make as it is to eat, this soup brings together the soothing properties of chicken soup and braised beans and greens. The soup is sweet and smooth from onions, garlic and herbs softened in butter, chickeny from poaching boneless breasts in chicken broth and silky from smashed beans. Feel free to top bowls with a squeeze of lemon, grating of Parmesan or slice of crusty bread. You could also add cooked rice or pasta to bowls. This is a soup that’s there for you.

By Ali Slagle

Yield: 4 servings

Total time: 45 minutes

INGREDIENTS

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 yellow onion, finely chopped

5 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled

1 rosemary or 2 sage sprigs

Salt and black pepper

1 pound boneless, skinless chicken breasts

4 cups chicken broth

2 (15-ounce) cans white beans, such as cannellini, drained

1 bunch kale, escarole or another dark leafy green, stems removed and leaves coarsely chopped

DIRECTIONS

1. In a large pot or Dutch oven, melt the butter over medium. When foaming, add the onion, garlic and herb sprig and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring often, until softened and golden, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove the herb sprig.

2. Add the chicken, broth and white beans. Bring to a simmer over medium, then reduce heat to low, cover the pot and simmer until the chicken is cooked through (165 degrees in the thickest part), 10 to 14 minutes.

3. Transfer the chicken to a bowl and smash some of the beans on the side of the pot. Stir the greens into the soup. Increase heat to medium and simmer, uncovered, while you shred the chicken.

4. Use two forks to shred the chicken. Stir the chicken back in the soup and season to taste with salt and pepper.

2. Ravioli With Roasted Red Pepper Sauce

Ravioli with roasted red pepper sauce. Inspired by the base flavors of jollof rice, Kiano Moju swaps out standard tomato sauce for a slightly fruitier version made with roasted red bell peppers, and finishes the ravioli with a dollop of tangy goat cheese. Food styled by Brett Regot. (Armando Rafael/The New York Times)

Sometimes the best pasta sauces do start with a jar. Inspired by a classic flavor combination found in Nigerian jollof rice (red bell peppers, habanero, stock and tomato), this recipe starts off with a jar of roasted red bell peppers, and blends them with habanero and stock until creamy. The chile is used more for its flavor than its heat. By removing the seeds and the white membrane, the spice level drops significantly, leaving you with a wonderful fruity pepper note. The pasta, tomato paste and a topping of creamy goat cheese bring everything together. As with any prominent ingredient, be sure to taste the cheese first. Some goat cheese brands can be more tangy than others, so you may need to use less.

By Kiano Moju

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

Total time: 25 minutes

INGREDIENTS

1 (16-ounce) jar roasted red peppers, drained

1 cup chicken or vegetable broth

1 habanero chile, halved and seeded

3 tablespoons olive oil, plus more to serve

3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

3 tablespoons tomato paste

Kosher salt and black pepper

2 (9-ounce) packages cheese ravioli (or tortelloni)

4 ounces mild goat cheese

DIRECTIONS

1. Using a blender or an immersion blender, blend the drained roasted red peppers, broth and habanero until smooth. Set aside.

2. Coat the bottom of a large (12-inch) skillet with the olive oil. Add the garlic and set over medium heat. Once the garlic becomes fragrant and sizzles in the pan, add the tomato paste, stirring until it darkens to a brick red, 1 to 2 minutes.

3. Pour in the blended pepper mixture and stir until combined. Bring to a simmer and let cook for 2 to 3 minutes, until slightly reduced. Season with salt and black pepper to taste.

4. Add the ravioli and stir until coated. Shake the pan so that it’s in a flat layer, then spoon the goat cheese on top. Let cook for 2 to 3 minutes, until the pasta is cooked to your liking and the cheese is slightly melty. Finish with more black pepper if you like. (For a golden cheesy top, once the pasta is cooked, you can broil the dish on high for 4 to 5 minutes, until lightly browned.) Drizzle with a bit of olive oil before serving.

3. Spicy Roasted Shrimp and Broccoli Raab

Spicy roasted shrimp and broccoli rabe. Melissa Clark’s shrimp with broccoli rabe roasts in 10 minutes flat. Food styled by Spencer Richards. (Rachel Vanni/The New York Times)

By Melissa Clark

Yield: 2 to 3 servings

Total time: 20 minutes

INGREDIENTS

3/4 pound broccoli raab, tough bottom stems removed

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 teaspoon toasted sesame oil, optional

1/2 teaspoon coarse kosher salt

1/4 teaspoon crushed red chile flakes, or to taste

3/4 pound large shrimp, peeled

1 teaspoon orange zest

Orange wedges, for serving

DIRECTIONS

1. Heat oven to 425 degrees. In a large bowl, toss broccoli with 2 tablespoons olive oil, the sesame oil if using, 1/4 teaspoon salt and 1/8 teaspoon chile flakes. In a separate bowl, combine shrimp, remaining 1 tablespoon oil, the orange zest, remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt and remaining 1/8 teaspoon chile flakes.

2. Spread broccoli and shrimp in a single layer on a baking sheet. Roast, tossing once or twice halfway through, until shrimp are just opaque and broccoli is tender and golden around the edges, about 10 minutes. Serve with orange wedges.

4. Huevos Enfrijolados (Eggs in Spicy Black Beans)

Huevos enfrijolados (eggs in spicy black beans). You simmer and smash beans with garlic and chipotle chiles in adobo to make Rick Martinez’s recipe for this beloved egg dish, a true any-time-of-day, any-time-of-year meal. Food styled by Barrett Washburne. (Ghazalle Badiozamani/The New York Times)

Eggs nestled in a spicy, smoky black bean sauce, huevos enfrijolados are a staple of Mexican home cooking. It’s a quick way to make a meal from what’s already in the kitchen: leftover frijoles de olla, chiles and fresh eggs. In this version, canned black beans are cooked with chipotles and garlic until rich and creamy, then eggs are gently dropped into the simmering beans to poach. Served with crunchy tostadas, queso fresco and avocado, it’s a deeply comforting, pantry-friendly meal that comes together in under 45 minutes — perfect for a weeknight dinner or a quick and hearty brunch.

By Rick Martinez

Yield: 4 servings

Total time: 40 minutes

INGREDIENTS

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

1/2 medium white onion, chopped (about 1/2 cup)

3 garlic cloves, crushed

3 to 5 canned chipotle chiles in adobo (to taste), chopped, plus 2 tablespoons adobo sauce

2 (15-ounce) cans black beans, rinsed and drained

1 1/4 cups vegetable or mushroom broth

Kosher salt

6 to 8 large eggs

3 ounces queso fresco or cotija cheese, crumbled

Cilantro leaves with tender stems and sliced avocado, for serving

8 corn tostadas

DIRECTIONS

1. Heat oil in a large skillet over medium and add half of the onion, all of the garlic and the chopped chipotles, and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender and beginning to brown, 6 to 8 minutes. Add the beans, adobo sauce and broth and bring to a boil. Cook, stirring occasionally, until liquid has reduced slightly, about 5 minutes. Off the heat, use a potato masher to smash beans until no whole beans remain. Taste and season with salt.

2. Return the pan to medium-high.Use a spoon to make wells in the beans, gently crack the eggs into the simmering bean mixture and season each with salt. Reduce heat to medium and cook until the eggs are just set, 5 to 7 minutes. If you prefer hard-cooked eggs, cover the skillet and cook for 8 to 10 minutes.

3. Serve huevos enfrijolados with the queso, cilantro and remaining chopped onion sprinkled over the top, with sliced avocado and tostadas alongside.

5. Pork Schnitzel With Quick Pickles

Pork schnitzel with quick pickles. Schnitzel is a perfect dinner when paired with quick pickles. (Andrew Scrivani/The New York Times)

When most people think of schnitzel, they default to veal. But pork has its merits. Pork schnitzel is not only more economical than veal, it’s also richer in flavor and easier to cook (you’ve got a bigger margin of error when it comes to timing because pork isn’t as apt to dry out). This recipe calls for panko, which are fluffy Japanese-style breadcrumbs that make the coating particularly light. But any breadcrumbs will work. If you don’t want to make the quick pickles, serve this with a sliced up cucumber or two and/or fennel bulb with some lime wedges on the side. And if you happen to have lingonberry jam on hand, this is a great time to use it.

By Melissa Clark

Yield: 4 servings

Total time: 30 minutes

INGREDIENTS

For the pickles:

2 limes

3 small Kirby cucumbers or 1 large cucumber, peeled if you like and thinly sliced

1/3 cup very thinly sliced fennel bulb (save the fronds for garnish)

1 large shallot or 1/2 small red onion, thinly sliced

1 tablespoon light brown sugar

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

For the pork cutlets:

1/2 cup flour

1/8 teaspoon cayenne

1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

2 eggs, beaten

1 1/2 cups panko or other unseasoned breadcrumbs

1 1/4 pounds boneless pork cutlets, pounded to 1/8-inch thick

Coarse kosher salt and ground black pepper

Safflower, peanut or vegetable oil, for frying

1 scallion, thinly sliced, including greens

Lingonberry jam, for serving (optional)

DIRECTIONS

1. Prepare the pickles: Grate the zest from one of the limes and juice them both. Add zest and juice to a shallow bowl along with the remaining pickle ingredients and toss well. Let sit for at least 30 minutes and up to 3 days. Chill if letting them sit for longer than 4 hours.

2. Meanwhile, prepare the pork: Mix flour with cayenne and nutmeg. Place flour mixture in one shallow dish, place eggs in a second dish, and place breadcrumbs in a third dish. Season pork cutlets generously with salt and pepper.

3. Heat 1/8 inch oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. While oil heats, dip cutlets one by one into flour (shake off any excess), then into eggs (ditto) and finally into the breadcrumbs, taking care not to handle pork more than necessary (hold meat by ends).

4. When oil sizzles when a pinch of breadcrumbs is thrown in, add as many cutlets as comfortably fit in one layer, leaving plenty of room around them. Swirl and tilt pan so oil cascades over top of cutlet in waves. When bottom is golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes, flip and brown the other side, swirling pan (swirling helps create air pockets, giving you lighter schnitzel). Transfer to a paper-towel-lined baking platter or baking tray and sprinkle with more salt. Repeat with remaining pork.

5. Serve pork sprinkled with scallion and drizzled with a little of the pickle juice, accompanied by the pickles and the lingonberry jam, if you like.

AND TO DRINK: Think Austrian. Either grüner veltliner or good dry Austrian riesling will go beautifully with schnitzel. If you prefer red, you could try a fresh, lithe zweigelt. Beyond Austria, many dry whites with substance and body will do: chardonnay, as long as it’s not oaky; Savennières, herbal sauvignon blancs, Soave, ribolla gialla from northeast Italy, a godello from Spain. And don’t forget sparkling wines, particularly Champagne, great with many fried foods. — ERIC ASIMOV

Dining Diary: Inexpensive eats, and a pop-up that could become a permanent restaurant

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This week’s dining adventures include a mish-mash of places.

I’m still doing my best to support local immigrant-owned restaurants, but I also checked out a cool St. Paul pop-up that might become its own thing if all goes well.

Mr. Mustacheo

Left to right, chicken tinga and al pastor tacos and a citrus salad at Mr. Mustacheo in West St. Paul. (Jess Fleming / Pioneer Press)

On a recent Taco Tuesday, my family decided to check out this little quick-service spot on Robert Street in West St. Paul, in the former Hamburguesas El Gordo space.

The branding is bright and modern, as is the restaurant, which was pretty empty save a couple of clergy members enjoying their tacos.

We ordered a good smattering of the menu, from street tacos to a burger to a burger quesadilla.

Macha wings at Mr. Mustacheo in West St. Paul. (Jess Fleming / Pioneer Press)

But the thing that really intrigued us were the Mexi-wings, which appear to be their signature dish. We got a dozen — and if you do so, you can choose three different flavors, which is pretty cool!

The wings are big and meaty, and there are some seriously fun flavors that we have not seen elsewhere, from macha (a smoky, oily salsa made from dried chile) to pipan (described as a creamy ancestral blend of pumpkin seeds, herbs and chile) to mole, which they were unfortunately out of. We ordered the macha, pipan and limon (lime) pepper dry rub for my youngest, who loves wings but isn’t crazy about getting his hands all saucy.

The pipan was truly a new flavor for me — nutty, spicy, herbaceous — but I honestly think I liked the tangy, zippy dry rub best (the apple doesn’t fall too far from the tree there, apparently).

Tacos are a la carte, which I appreciate because it makes it easier to try more than one. My husband and I shared four of them — al pastor, zucchini con queso, asada and tinga. They were all excellent, especially the juicy al pastor and zucchini. And if you have a normal appetite and are getting a side or wings to start, one or two tacos is probably plenty, because they are stuffed to the absolute brim. If you order a combo, you get two tacos and two sizable sides, which include a couple of bright, crunchy salads.

My son devoured his giant burger quesadilla, and the chilaquiles burger (chips, sauce and egg atop a burger patty) was messy, tasty fun.

It took me too long to try Mr. Mustacheo, but I know my family will be asking to go there again soon.

Mr. Mustacheo: 1731 S. Robert St., West St. Paul; 651-313-5099; mrmustacheo.com

Shish

Chicken shawarma at Shish on St. Paul’s Grand Avenue. (Jess Fleming / Pioneer Press)

I was craving Middle Eastern food after thinking about late-night shawarma orders from Santana Foods near the University of Minnesota when I was a student there. (It’s now called Mr. Santana, and sadly does not have shawarma on the menu.)

A quick internet search found that Shish, another college mainstay near Macalester, did have it, so my husband and I trekked over.

The counter-service operation has a large menu, which includes gyros, falafel, kebabs, curry and even burgers. I got the shawarma I was craving, in bowl form. Tender, sliced chicken thighs, thick, flavorful tzatziki and fresh lettuce, cucumbers and tomatoes fulfilled my craving.

My husband ordered the chicken curry, though, and on that cold, dark night, I have never been so jealous of someone else’s order. Soup-like, deeply spiced and full of chicken and vegetables, this steaming bowl of goodness is served with a side of unnecessary but delicious turmeric-infused rice.

If you haven’t been to Shish, you should go. And get that curry.

Shish: 1668 Grand Ave., St. Paul; 651-690-2212; shishongrand.com

Steak Frites by Meritage

Steak frites at the Steak Frites by Meritage pop-up in January, 2026. (Jess Fleming / Pioneer Press)

Reservations were booked almost the minute this pop-up was announced, so I don’t feel too bad writing about it even though you can’t go.

Chef Russell Klein is trying something new here — serving just a few dishes and doing them well. The concept serves steak frites, but also moules (mussels) frites. Dinners come with warm bread, a salad and bottomless fries for $32 per person. Drinks, which are limited to a red wine, a white and just a few pre-mixed cocktails, are just $11 apiece.

What’s not to love about that? You can also swap the salad for a little crock of the restaurant’s famous-for-a-reason French onion soup for an upcharge, so of course one of us had to do that. The other stuck with the crisp, supper-club-esque salad with a kicky vinaigrette. My husband ordered the mussels and I ordered the steak, which is a great move if you get the chance to go. Meritage has always had some of my favorite mussels, in a tasty white-wine sauce, and the steak is beefy and tender and comes with a rich, salty house-made steak sauce. And those hand-cut, deep-golden, crispy fries? The best I’ve tasted, and that includes nibbling my way through Paris. My only complaint about the whole operation is that they did not serve the fries with the restaurant’s fantastic bearnaise sauce, which is how they usually come.

Considering the popularity of this three-Wednesday stint, my guess is that Klein’s search for a space to run this as an independent restaurant will be swift. Let’s hope it’s in the east metro.

If he decides to run the pop-up again, I’ll be sure to let you know — after I make a reservation.

Meritage: 410 St. Peter St., St. Paul; 651-222-5670; meritage-stpaul.com

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Today in History: February 5, White separatist convicted of murdering civil rights leader 31 years later

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Today is Thursday, Feb. 5, the 36th day of 2026. There are 329 days left in the year.

Today in history:

On Feb. 5, 1994, white separatist Byron De La Beckwith was convicted in Jackson, Mississippi, of murdering civil rights leader Medgar Evers in 1963 and was sentenced to life in prison.

Also on this date:

In 1917, the U.S. Congress passed the Immigration Act of 1917 over President Woodrow Wilson’s veto, an act that severely curtailed Asian immigration and mandated immigrant literacy testing.

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In 1918, more than 200 people were killed during World War I when the Cunard liner SS Tuscania, which was transporting over 2,000 American troops to Europe, was torpedoed by a German U-boat off the coast of Ireland.

In 1971, Apollo 14 astronauts Alan Shepard and Edgar Mitchell stepped onto the moon’s surface in the first of two lunar excursions.

In 1973, services were held at Arlington National Cemetery for U.S. Army Col. William B. Nolde, the last official American combat casualty in the Vietnam War before a ceasefire took effect.

In 1993, President Bill Clinton signed the Family and Medical Leave Act, granting workers up to 12 weeks of unpaid leave for family emergencies.

In 2008, an outbreak of 87 tornadoes fired up across nine states, killing 57 people in Arkansas, Tennessee, Kentucky and Alabama during a span of 12 hours. One Arkansas twister left a 122-mile path of damage along the ground.

In 2017, Tom Brady led one of the greatest comebacks in NFL history, highlighted by a spectacular Julian Edelman catch that helped lift New England from a 25-point deficit against the Atlanta Falcons to the Patriots’ fifth Super Bowl victory, 34-28; it was the first Super Bowl to end in overtime.

In 2020, the Senate voted to acquit President Donald Trump in his first impeachment trial. Most senators expressed unease with Trump’s pressure campaign on Ukraine that prompted the impeachment, but just one Republican, Mitt Romney of Utah, broke party ranks and voted to convict. In 2021, the Senate acquitted Trump in a second trial for allegedly inciting the violent Jan. 6 siege of the Capitol.

In 2023, Beyoncé won her 32nd Grammy to become the most decorated artist in the history of the award.

Today’s birthdays:

Tony-winning playwright John Guare is 88.
Football Hall of Famer Roger Staubach is 84.
Film director Michael Mann is 83.
Racing Hall of Famer Darrell Waltrip is 79.
Actor Barbara Hershey is 78.
Actor-comedian Tim Meadows is 65.
Actor Jennifer Jason Leigh is 64.
Rock musician Duff McKagan (Guns N’ Roses) is 62.
Golf Hall of Famer Jose Maria Olazabal is 60.
Actor-comedian Chris Parnell is 59.
Actor Michael Sheen is 57.
Country singer Sara Evans is 55.
Actor-singer Darren Criss is 39.
Actor Henry Golding is 39.
Soccer star Neymar is 34.

Boldy hat trick sends Wild to break on a high note

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In a game filled with crazy swings in momentum, the final one swung the Minnesota Wild’s way.

When it was all over, Jared Spurgeon scored in overtime, lifting the Wild to a 6-5 win over the Nashville Predators after both teams led and trailed at various points.

The Wild got a first-period hat trick from Matt Boldy, who set up the overtime winner, along with 30 saves from goalie Filip Gustavsson to head to the Olympic break with a 34-14-10 record. They have gone 8-1-1 in their past 10 games.

It was the third game between these Central Division rivals this season, and the third time they have needed overtime to reach a decision.

Predators coaches Andrew Brunette and Darby Hendrickson —  well-known for their on-ice work in Minnesota two decades ago — likely spent considerable time with their team going over detailed tactics on how to slow down the red-hot Wild.

Boldy needed less than 13 minutes to leave those plans in shambles with his 30th, 31st and 32nd goals, tying him for the team lead.

He completed the fastest hat trick from the start of a game in Wild franchise history, helping the visitors to 2-0 and 3-1 leads in the opening period. But a pair of power-play goals by the Predators, and a bank shot off the arm of Gustavsson by former Gophers standout Erik Haula had the teams knotted 3-all after the initial 20 minutes.

Nashville scored to take the lead, and hit the post, within the opening minute of the middle frame, pushing the Wild back on their heels and getting the raucous crowd back in the game. But the second period would end tied as well, when Yakov Trenin chipped in a loose puck from the top of the crease for his fifth goal of the season.

After Vladimir Tarasenko gave the Wild a late lead, banking a long-range shot off a Nashville defender and over the line, the Predators answered 34 seconds later on a similar play, when a cross-ice puck deflected off a skate and into the net. Minnesota had 19 shots in the third but could not get another go-ahead goal until the 3-on-3 extra session.

Juuse Saros had 38 saves for the Predators, who are back in the hunt for the playoffs after a rough start to the season. It was Minnesota’s NHL-leading 23rd game of the season that has required overtime.

The Wild’s next game is Thursday, Feb. 26 at Colorado.

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