There’s real tenderness in a show like “Hacks.” Real cruelty, too, and that’s separate from its insult comedy sensibility. Back for its third and strongest season on Max, the Joan Rivers-esque showbiz veteran Deborah Vance (Jean Smart) and her semi-obnoxious Gen-Z writer Ava Daniels (Hannah Einbinder) have a new goal: To land Deborah the job hosting a late-night talk show.

It’s the same quasi-“Tonight Show” gig show that she lost earlier in her career — a crushing letdown that left her bitter and shellshocked for decades — so this feels personal: “I have been waiting over 40 years for a second chance. This is it. I want that chair.” Does the premise feel somewhat behind the times considering late-night TV has lost much of its cache in recent years? Yes! Don’t tell “Hacks” that, but maybe it doesn’t even matter. As a framing device, it gives the season a much-needed shape and a compelling narrative destination.

The pair have been estranged for months, with Deborah busy (if bored) doing a victory lap after the massive success of her comedy special. Ava is on the upswing as well, writing for a show that’s a riff on John Oliver’s “Last Week Tonight.” Technically, they don’t need each other anymore. But clearly, in some metaphysical sense, they do. This is the cycle they’re trapped in and the show’s guiding principle: A gradual, somewhat grudging bond is formed between two prickly personalities, lulling you into the belief that their friendship has progressed beyond its transactional, sharp-elbowed origins and then — zing — betrayal. It’s a true Hollywood story.

Ava remains the kind of annoying person who rear-ends a city bus and apologizes profusely as the passengers disembark — “I want to commend you for using mass transit!” — before she unironically hightails it back to her car.

Old habits die hard for Deborah, as well. She still relies on her accumulation of stuff to compensate for her disappointments and insecurities. Her secondary closet isn’t just located somewhere in her mansion, it’s an entire warehouse at a separate location. None of this can fix whatever is gnawing at her soul, but it’s such an insightful detail.

From left, Jean Smart, Megan Stalter and Paul W. Downs in Season 3 of “Hacks.” (Jake Giles Netter/Max/TNS)

Rooting from the sidelines are the various members of her team, including her agent (a terrifically beleaguered Paul W. Downs, who is also one of the show’s co-creators along with Lucia Aniello and Jen Statsky) and his overeager, can’t-read-a-room-to-save-her-life assistant (Megan Stalter, who gets more nuance this season, making her less of a one-joke construct).

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The quips are funnier this time out, too. You know nothing about fashion, Deborah informs Ava: “You look like you’re dressed to have lunch on a steel girder.” Another line is such an obvious but funny joke, I can’t believe we haven’t heard it sooner: “I can’t be woke, I’m exhausted!” Schmoozing and shilling are second nature to Deborah because she’s a warhorse in this business and willing to play the game if the price is right. Ava brings more awkward vulnerability and skepticism to the mix. Sexism and ageism remain the show’s core themes. But also the neediness of people who are drawn to fame and talk show stardom, and the way failure and neuroses can infect everyone around them. Roger Ebert clocked this in his review of the 2011 documentary “Conan O’Brien Can’t Stop,” noting that after he lost “The Tonight Show,” everyone around him paid a price: “He relentlessly nibbles away at his support system, picks on his personal assistant, needles his sidekick Andy Richter and dominates his writers.” There’s a lot of Deborah and Ava in that description.

It’s a real relationship, twisted and sad, but also weirdly supportive and meaningful — and far more intimate than any bond with their immediate family members. Despite the 40-year age gap, this is probably the most important connection either has ever had.

“Hacks” is more or less doing variations on the same story each season, but it’s doing it in interesting ways, and the brass ring of a late-night talk show gig is a juicy arc onto which this toxic pattern can play out once again. Nobody self-sabotages their way to success like these two. Wariness gives way to trust. And then inevitably the entire floor gives way, every time.

“Hacks” Season 3 — 3.5 stars (out of 4)

Where to watch: Max

Nina Metz is a Tribune critic.

People check out vehicles in Low Rider show at the Cinco de Mayo celebration in St. Paul’s West Side neighborhood on Saturday, May 6, 2023. (John Autey / Pioneer Press)

The 2024 West Side Cinco de Mayo celebration will take place Saturday and feature a parade, car show, food live music as well as other events.

The event will start at 10 a.m. and run until 5 p.m. at Cesar Chavez Street — between Robert Street and U.S. Highway 52 — in St. Paul’s West Side.

The parade will be from 10 to 11 a.m. A car and bike show will follow from 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. And, there will be a dog show from 11 a.m. until 5 p.m. Local restaurants will also host specials and entertainment throughout the weekend.

For more detailed information on events go to westsidecincodemayo.com/

The event celebrates the community’s Mexican heritage and Mexico’s victory over the French at the Battle of Puebla in 1862.

This festival began in 1985 to recognize the community and local businesses as well as serving as a way to preserve the area’s rich culture and history.

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A 25-year-old man has been charged with stabbing to death his mother’s boyfriend Wednesday during an early morning fight at their Coon Rapids home.

Romelle Flowers’ mother called 911 just before 3:30 a.m. and said he had cut her boyfriend, who was bleeding and unconscious in the home along Jay Street, just north of Coon Rapids Boulevard, according to charges filed Friday.

Romelle Flowers (Courtesy of the Anoka County Sheriff’s Office)

Officers found the man, identified in the complaint as DEP, unconscious on the floor with several stab wounds, including ones to his right leg and chest. He was pronounced dead at a hospital.

According to the criminal complaint, Flowers’ mother said her son and DEP had been arguing all day and that it turned physical. Flowers swung at DEP and missed. DEP then punched Flowers in the face.

She said they were separated and that she and DEP went to bed a short time later at about 2:30 a.m. Her son was making a lot of noise in the house, she said.

About an hour later, she woke up to the sound of her son and DEP fighting. She found DEP bleeding profusely, and saw her son running out of the house.

Officers arrested Flowers near the home. He had blood on his face, shirt and hands.

In an interview, Flowers told police he had been drinking and watching TV in the living room all day. He said DEP attacked him twice, the second time after DEP became mad at him for making noise. Flowers said he “just took it” the first time, but fought back the second time, the complaint says.

Flowers, who was charged with one count of second-degree murder, remained jailed Friday in lieu of $1 million bail.

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It is time for celebration …Cinco de Mayo is here. The day is a double celebration for me since it is also my birthday. When asked for my birth date throughout the year at the doctor’s office, pharmacy or wherever, Cinco de Mayo is quite often the topic of conversation.

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The day celebrates Mexico’s victory over France at the Battle of Puebla on May 5, 1862. The day is sometimes thought as being Mexico’s Independence Day, which it is not. Mexico’s independence from Spain is celebrated on Sept. 16.

What I find interesting is that it is believed the day is celebrated with more gusto here in the United States than in its native country, although it is a big celebration in Puebla. Here, it has become a celebration of Mexican heritage, culture and of course, food and drink; like how we recognize Irish culture on St. Patrick’s Day.

May 5 is a day on which many prepare Mexican-inspired fare for a party, and a batch of margaritas to wash it all down. This year, since it falls on a weekend, the celebration can start early! To help you make this year’s fiesta unique and mouth-watering, the party-perfect recipes below will do the trick.

For those who wish to go out and enjoy Mexican food and have some fun, restaurants, and not only Mexican ones, are planning festivities and menus that go beyond guacamole, chips and margaritas.

This title of an article (https://bit.ly/3Wiytxt) on Upworthy.com caught my attention: “Sorry Italian food lovers. America is about to have a new favorite ethnic food.”

It states, “According to Datassential, a Chicago-based market research firm, millennials (ages 27 to 42) rank Mexican food as their favorite ethnic cuisine over Italian, and Gen Z (ages 8 to 23) agrees, with Chinese in second and Italian in third.”

It is not true that all Mexican cuisine is very spicy and hot. I can attest to that, being very sensitive to both. The approach with any spice is to carefully add it to allow the flavors of the proteins and vegetables to shine.

Mexican food has evolved over the centuries with many influences, especially from the Aztec and Mayan civilizations. Mexico’s influence on the American food scene cannot be denied.

Tex-Mex is what many Americans believe authentic Mexican cuisine is because that’s what they have experienced in many chain restaurants, the usual suspects, tacos, fajitas and burritos. And yet, the cuisine goes way beyond these well-known delights.

My cooking inspiration comes from blogs, food manufacturers’ websites and, of course, cookbooks.

To help in my search for a Mexican dish or two to prepare, I perused my collection and selected “The Best Mexican Recipes: Kitchen-Tested Recipes Put the Real Flavors of Mexico Within Reach” by the editors of America’s Test Kitchen (2015, $29.99).

The book tells the story of Mexican cooking, considering the home kitchen and American supermarkets. What I found useful is the title’s recipes that include Mexico’s regional dishes, highlighting the ingredients from the varied climate and topography of the country.

For example, there are spicy fish preparations of the Yucatan as well as more rustic dishes from the north and complex moles of Puebla and Oaxaca. Don’t fret, in addition to the authentic dishes you probably haven’t seen in restaurants, there are many recipes that have been a part of what most think of as Mexican cuisine.

The introduction lists, and shows, the types of fresh and dried chilies, describes their appearance and flavor, provides substitutions and how to prepare them. The use of corn in its many forms (fresh corn, corn husks, corn meal, masa), a staple ingredient in Mexican cooking, is discussed.

How to use herbs, spices, fruits and vegetables plus other ingredients in Mexican cooking is explained. In the “Building Blocks of Mexican Cooking” pages, tips such as making sauces, using marinades and rubs, cooking with tortillas and finishing and serving are helpful in preparing the recipes.

This Cinco de Mayo, why not recreate some of your favorite Mexican dishes at home, and while you’re at it expand your repertoire to include a little-known authentic and tantalizing dish you rarely see north of the border. Check out these recipes from the book to help prepare your Cinco de Mayo celebration.

For the recipe for beef taco salad, visit https://bit.ly/2yEDlo4.

Seared Shrimp With Tomatoes and Avocado

Serves 4

Ingredients:

1 pound tomatoes, cored, seeded and cut into ½-inch pieces
6 scallions, white and green parts separated and sliced thin
¼ cup minced fresh cilantro
3 garlic cloves, minced
1-2 teaspoons minced canned chipotle chile in adobo sauce
Salt and pepper
1 ½ pounds extra-large shrimp (21 to 25 per pound), peeled and deveined
1/8 teaspoon sugar
2 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided
1 tablespoon lime juice, plus lime wedges for serving
1 avocado, halved, pitted, and diced

Directions:

Toss tomatoes, scallion whites, cilantro, garlic, chipotle and ¾ teaspoon salt together in a bowl. In a separate bowl, toss shrimp with sugar, ¼ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper.

Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch skillet over high heat until just smoking. Add half of shrimp to pan in single layer and cook, without moving them, until spotty brown on 1 side, about 1 minute. Transfer shrimp to large bowl (they will be underdone).

Repeat with remaining 1 tablespoon oil and remaining shrimp.

Return now-empty skillet to high heat, add tomato mixture and lime juice and cook until tomatoes are slightly softened, about 1 minute. Stir in shrimp along with any accumulated juices and cook until shrimp are cooked through and hot, about 1 minute. Transfer shrimp to large platter and sprinkle with avocado and scallion greens. Serve with lime wedges.

Serve Shrimp and Lime Ceviche as an appetizer with crunchy tortilla chips or use as a topping for tostadas. (Courtesy of America’s Test Kitchen)

Shrimp and Lime Ceviche

Serves 6

Ingredients:

1 tomato, cored, seeded, and chopped fine
½ cup lemon juice (3 lemons)
1 jalapeño chile, stemmed, seeded and minced
1 teaspoon grated lime zest plus ½ cup juice (4 limes)
1 garlic clove, minced
Salt and pepper
1 pound extra-large shrimp (21 to 25 per pound), peeled, deveined, tails removed, and halved lengthwise
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
4 scallions, sliced thin
3 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro
½ teaspoon sugar

Directions:

Combine tomato, lemon juice, jalapeño, lime zest and juice, garlic and ½ teaspoon salt in medium bowl. Stir in shrimp, cover and refrigerate until shrimp are firm and opaque throughout, 45 minutes to 1 hour, stirring halfway through refrigerating.

Drain shrimp mixture in colander, leaving shrimp slightly wet, and transfer to serving bowl. Stir in oil, scallions, cilantro and sugar. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.

Although not a traditional Mexican dish, the recipe for 7-Layer Dip uses many flavors and ingredients to create a party-worthy appetizer. (Courtesy of America’s Test Kitchen)

7-Layer Dip

Serves 8-10

Ingredients:

4 large tomatoes, cored, seeded and chopped fine
6 scallions (2 minced; 4, green parts only, sliced thin)
2 jalapeño chiles, stemmed, seeded and minced
3 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro
2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons lime juice (2 limes)
Salt
1 (15-ounce) can black beans, drained but not rinsed
2 garlic cloves, minced
¾ teaspoon chili powder
1 pound pepper Jack cheese, shredded (4 cups)
1½ cups sour cream
1 recipe Chunky Guacamole (recipe below)

Directions:

Combine tomatoes, minced scallions, jalapeños, cilantro, 2 tablespoons lime juice and ⅛ teaspoon salt in bowl. Let sit until tomatoes begin to soften, about 30 minutes. Drain mixture, discard liquid and return to bowl.

Meanwhile, pulse beans, garlic, chili powder, remaining 2 teaspoons lime juice and ⅛ teaspoon salt in food processor to coarse paste, about 15 pulses. Spread bean mixture evenly in 8-inch square baking dish or 1-quart glass bowl.

In a clean, dry food processor bowl, pulse 2½ cups pepper jack and sour cream until smooth, about 15 pulses. Spread pepper jack–sour cream mixture evenly over bean layer. Top evenly with remaining 1½ cups pepper jack, followed by guacamole and, finally, drained tomato mixture. (Dip can be refrigerated for up to 24 hours; bring to room temperature before serving.) Sprinkle with sliced scallion greens before serving. Serve with tortilla chips.

Chunky Guacamole

Makes about 3 cups

Ingredients:

3 ripe avocados
¼ cup minced fresh cilantro
1 jalapeno chile, stemmed, seeded and minced
2 tablespoons finely chopped red onion
2 tablespoons lime juice
2 garlic cloves, minced
Salt
½ teaspoon ground cumin

Directions:

Halve 1 avocado, remove pit and scoop flesh into medium bowl. All cilantro, jalapeno, onion, lime juice, garlic, 3/4 teaspoon salt and cumin and mash with potato masher (or fork) until mostly smooth.

Halve, pit and dice remaining 2 avocados. Add cubes to bowl with mashed avocado mixture and gently mash until mixture is well combined but still coarse. (Guacamole can be refrigerated for up to 24 hours with plastic wrap pressed directly against its surface). Season with salt before serving.

Corn and Black Bean Tortilla Tart

Serves 4-6

Ingredients:

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
2½ cups fresh or thawed frozen corn
2 large plum tomatoes, cored and cut into ¼-inch pieces
4 scallions, sliced thin
2 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro
1 teaspoon lime juice
Salt and pepper
1 onion, chopped fine
1 jalapeño chile, stemmed, seeded, and minced
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 (15-ounce) can black beans, rinsed
¾ cup vegetable broth
4 (10-inch) flour tortillas
1 ½ cups cheddar cheese, shredded
½ cup queso fresco, crumbled

Directions:

Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 400 degrees. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add corn and cook, stirring occasionally, until kernels begin to brown and pop, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer to large bowl and let cool slightly. Stir in tomatoes, scallions, 1 tablespoon cilantro, and lime juice and season with salt and pepper to taste.

Wipe skillet clean with paper towels. Add 1 tablespoon oil and onion to skillet and cook over medium heat until softened, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in jalapeño, garlic and cumin and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in beans and broth and cook until liquid has nearly evaporated, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer mixture to large bowl and mash beans with potato masher until mostly smooth. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Line rimless or inverted baking sheet with parchment paper. Lightly brush both sides of tortillas with remaining 2 tablespoons oil. Place 1 tortilla on prepared sheet. Spread one-quarter of mashed beans over top, leaving ½ inch border around edge. Sprinkle with one-quarter of corn mixture, one-quarter of cheddar, and one-quarter of queso fresco. Repeat with remaining tortillas, beans, corn, cheddar and queso fresco to make layered tart.

Bake tart until cheese is melted and slightly brown, 20 to 25 minutes. Let cool on sheet for 5 minutes, then slide onto cutting board using parchment; discard parchment. Sprinkle remaining 1 tablespoon cilantro over top. Cut into wedges and serve.

Recipes courtesy of America’s Test Kitchen

Stephen Fries is professor emeritus and former coordinator of the Hospitality Management Programs at Gateway Community College in New Haven, Conn. He has been a food and culinary travel columnist for the past 16 years and is co-founder of and host of “Worth Tasting,” a culinary walking tour of downtown New Haven. He is a board member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals. Email him at Stephen@stephenfries.com. For more, go to stephenfries.com.