Gregory Scruggs | (TNS) The Seattle Times

If you’re visiting Craters of the Moon National Monument and Preserve in its centennial year — as I was recently — or making a road trip that extends as far as Wyoming or Utah, it’s easy to consider breezing through southern Idaho en route to your destination.

Instead, take the scenic route through this corner of the Gem State, which offers some real diamonds in the rough. There are immaculate hot springs, delightfully odd museums, occasional good eats, hikes with uninterrupted summit views and a breathtaking canyon to explore.

Along the way, you’ll never be too far from the Snake River, which defines this part of Idaho as it winds a whopping 1,080 miles from its headwaters in Grand Teton and Yellowstone national parks until it merges with the Columbia River in the Tri-Cities. The Snake carves canyons through a swath of southern Idaho that offers big sky vistas of mountain peaks towering over plains and deserts.

Dotting the rural landscape of small towns and farmland, meanwhile, are some decidedly quirky roadside attractions befitting the region that served as the setting for 2004 cult comedy “Napoleon Dynamite.”

Pocatello: Eat, climb, soak

Elmer’s is a classic greasy spoon diner in Pocatello, across the street from Idaho State University, and serves up a mean breakfast – like the “looking for the sun” omelet pictured here – that will hold any road tripper over until lunchtime and beyond. (Gregory Scruggs/The Seattle Times/TNS)

Among southern Idaho’s small cities, I made a detour to Pocatello, curious to check out the college town home to Idaho State University which also claims to be the “U.S. Smile Capital.” I didn’t stick around long enough to vet the friendliness of the locals, but two attractions made me smile.

First was a hearty breakfast at Elmer’s, the midcentury greasy spoon diner of my dreams. The Pocatello location is one of only two in Idaho for this Oregon-based mini-chain (there are also locations in Tacoma and Vancouver, Wash.). The “looking for sun” omelet ($15) laden with cheese, salsa, avocado and sour cream started my day on a decidedly bright note.

Second was the plethora of hiking trails that rise right out of this college town nestled in the mountains. I found plenty of sun, and vistas across the Bannock Range, on the 8-mile round-trip, nearly 2,000 vertical feet climb to the summit of Scout Mountain.

Nothing beats a posthike hot springs soak, a combination Idaho offers in spades. Pocatello was also attractive because it’s just 35 miles from Lava Hot Springs, a small but bustling resort town centered on a clutch of hot mineral pools.

The hot springs facility, beautifully set against a rocky outcropping, was clean and uncrowded on my visit — a solid value at just $3-$12 per session depending on the day of the week and your age.

The waters range from 102 to 112 degrees and, a rare treat, have no sulfurous odor. Try the gravel-bottom pools for a gentle foot massage, or take a break from the mineral baths and stroll through the adjacent sunken garden. With summer hours until 11 p.m. nightly through Sept. 30, a soak under the stars comes highly recommended.

Peckish or thirsty? Lava Hot Springs welcomed Eruption Brewery & Bistro in October, a solid choice for a meal before a soak and a beer for after. (Alcohol consumption before entering a geothermal pool is not recommended.)

Small-town hotels

The Harkness Hotel, located in a historic bank building built in 1906, is an unexpected boutique hotel in otherwise blink-and-you’ll-miss-it McCammon, Idaho. The town is conveniently located for visiting Lava Hot Springs, Pocatello and the nearby mountains. (Gregory Scruggs/The Seattle Times/TNS)

I’m a sucker for a touch of luxury in an unexpected setting, so I swooned at the prospect of staying at The Harkness Hotel, a bank built in 1906 and converted to a boutique hotel 10 years ago (rooms $134-$279 per night). It’s likely the only reason you’ll stop in McCammon, a speck of a town halfway between Pocatello and Lava Hot Springs.

While the rooms, each with a distinctive decorative style, looked dreamy in photos, I was less enamored upon arrival with the quality of the furniture and finishings in The Ebony. The spartan amenities — an airport lounge-style coffee machine in the lobby and a gift shop in the former bank vault — didn’t encourage me to linger. But in this sparsely populated part of the country, The Harkness is still a cut above a chain motel. On my next swing through the region, I hope to check in at The Drift Inn in Rupert.

Offbeat museums

Pocatello wins the “most unexpected museum award” as the home of the baffling Museum of Clean, a massive brick building from 1916 turned into a multipurpose shrine to hygiene and children’s museum by the so-called “dean of clean” Don Aslett in 2011. (Gregory Scruggs/The Seattle Times/TNS)

Antique mops, vintage washing machines and the world’s largest collection of vacuum cleaners are among the exhibition highlights at the Museum of Clean in Pocatello ($5-$10 admission).

Cleaning magnate Don Aslett collected thousands of artifacts in his career preaching the gospel of cleanliness, like these vintage vacuum cleaners on display at the Museum of Clean. The museum claims to have the world’s largest collection of vacuums — nearly 1,000, the oldest dating to 1869. (Gregory Scruggs / The Seattle Times)

The haphazardly curated museum is the bizarre brainchild of Don Aslett, who while a student at Idaho State University started a cleaning company in 1957 that he turned into a national brand. Along the way he authored dozens of books on housecleaning — all of which are on prominent display near a larger-than-life statue of a janitor nicknamed “Big Don.”

Evergreen State science and history buffs surely know of our state’s role in the Manhattan Project at the Hanford site in Eastern Washington. But did you know that southern Idaho is arguably the birthplace of atomic energy, the world’s first nuclear power plant to produce in-house electricity?

Experimental Breeder Reactor-I (EBR-I) was erected at the Idaho National Laboratory along a lonesome stretch of highway. The facility lasted for a decade before it was replaced by a more advanced reactor. Today it operates as a free museum that feels like an “Oppenheimer” film set, with tours led by national lab docents. Twenty more miles west on Highway 26 and you’ll end up in Arco, the world’s first city powered by nuclear energy.

Views and brews

Quench your thirst on a southern Idaho road trip with a stop at Koto Brewing Co, which serves up tasty food and libations in downtown Twin Falls inside a historic property built by Japanese immigrant Tojiro Koto in 1920. (Gregory Scruggs/The Seattle Times/TNS)

Daredevil Evel Knievel tried and failed to jump the majestic Snake River Canyon in 1974 (stuntman Eddie Braun pulled it off in 2016). There’s a monument to Knievel’s legendary attempt at the foot of the Perrine Memorial Bridge, which crosses the canyon just outside of Twin Falls, another of southern Idaho’s bigger (albeit still quite small) cities — but well worth the detour off I-84.

The bridge is open to pedestrians on both sides and offers sweeping upriver and downriver views. The middle is a popular site for BASE jumpers to launch into the abyss 486 feet above the Snake River (tandem jumps $250). For a river-level view, hike the steep Pillar Falls Trail — just remember, never swim near the falls, where dangerous undercurrents lurk — or rent a kayak or paddleboard from AWOL Adventures and paddle as far as 8 miles upriver from Centennial Park to Shoshone Falls ($40-$45 for six-hour rental).

After ogling the canyon high and low, retreat to downtown Twin Falls for a well-earned refreshment at Koto Brewing Co. A roomy, inviting gathering space with a steady roster of live music and events, the brewery also serves up tasty food and drink. Order an Easy Rider Pilsner done up michelada-style ($6) and tuck into a koto steak sando with housemade miso vinaigrette ($17).

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If you go

Lava Hot Springs; 430 E. Main, Lava Hot Springs, Idaho; 208-776-5221; lavahotsprings.com; $3 for ages 2 and under, $7.50-$10 for ages 3-11, $8-$12 for ages 12-59, $7.50-$10 for ages 60-plus

The Harkness Hotel; 206 Center St., McCammon, Idaho; 208-254-4340; theharknesshotel.com; room with queen bed from $134

Elmer’s Restaurant; 851 S. Fifth Ave., Pocatello, Idaho; 208-232-9114; eatatelmers.com; breakfast items from $10-$20

Koto Brewing Co.; 156 Main Ave. N., Twin Falls, Idaho; 208-933-2570; koto.beer; 16-ounce beer $5.50-$7, appetizers $10-$18, burgers and sandwiches $13-$17

Museum of Clean; 711 S. Second Ave., Pocatello, Idaho; 208-236-6906; museumofclean.com; $5 for age 1, $8 for ages 2-15, $10 for ages 16-plus

Experimental Breeder Reactor-I Atomic Museum; Highway 20/26, 18 miles southeast of Arco, Idaho; 208-526-0050; inl.gov/ebr; free

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©2024 The Seattle Times. Visit seattletimes.com. Distributed by Tribune Content Agency, LLC.

Why save snorkeling for a cruise ship excursion or a resort stay when we have world-renowned snorkeling destinations right here in our own backyard?

Reefs and trails await underwater explorers just beneath the surface of the ocean’s warm, blue waters off the shoreline in Broward and Palm Beach counties.

Need an escape from the daily stresses of life? Grab a snorkel and mask, wade into the surf and submerge yourself in a world in which the only traffic you’ll encounter is a vibrant school of fish swimming by, or a graceful sea turtle crossing your path.

Of course, before you dive in, there are several things to figure out: the right location for your skill level, the necessary equipment, access points, cost, safety factors, and parking and other amenities.

We’ve taken all of this into account when compiling our list of must-snorkel spots that are easily accessible right from the beach — no boat required — and are either free or, in some cases, involve only parking or park fees.

SAFETY FIRST

Before anything else, let’s talk safety. Here are some important tips for snorkelers, courtesy of the Palm Beach County Parks & Recreation department’s website:

Know your personal swimming limitations and snorkeling abilities.
Always snorkel with a buddy so you can share your experiences and have somebody to help if needed.
Check the ocean conditions, including waves, currents, wind, water visibility and weather.
Decide on entry and exit points.
Keep in mind that the best time to snorkel is within two hours before or after high tide.

“If unsure of skills, stay within lifeguarded areas,” Fine said. “Look but don’t touch is the slogan to follow with snorkeling, and keep feet and hands off coral and marine life.”

EQUIPMENT CHECKLIST

Next, we asked marine biologist and Master Scuba Instructor John Christopher Fine — who calls Boynton Beach home when he’s not traveling around the world exploring shipwrecks and studying ocean pollution — about the equipment first-time snorkelers need before heading out into the water.

He said to start with the basics: a mask, snorkel and pair of fins (or swim shoes). Also, “wear a dive skin or nylon tights and top to protect from sun as well as stings,” he added. “Skins are inexpensive online, last a long time and are far less expensive than coral-killing sunscreens.”

A dive flag and float are required for safety and to comply with Florida law, he said.

“For beginners, I suggest a car inner tube on a yellow (polypropylene) line with a weight at the end, so the line can be dropped and the tube not float away,” he said, adding that a dive flag can be tied to it or secured with a special device.

“A tube is great to rest, holding on to it,” but it should be made of strong materials, not a typical pool float.

PLACES TO SNORKEL

Ready to jump in? We’ve gathered six snorkeling spots where you can meet marine life and experience the serenity of the sea.

And if you want a snorkeling sneak peek beforehand, just search YouTube.com for underwater videos by divers and snorkelers featuring the locations on our list below.

A guarded swimming area under the Blue Heron Bridge leads to the snorkel trail at Phil Foster Park in Riviera Beach. (Carline Jean/South Florida Sun Sentinel)

PALM BEACH COUNTY

Phil Foster Memorial Park Snorkel Trail 900 E. Blue Heron Blvd., Riviera Beach

HOURS: Sunrise to sunset

PARKING: Free

INFORMATION: discover.pbcgov.org/parks

An underwater paradise awaits snorkelers of all levels on the south side of the Blue Heron Bridge, just beyond a guarded swimming area. Venture out about 200 feet to explore submerged structures and shark sculptures while keeping an eye out for some of the trail’s residents, including squid, octopuses, spotted rays and starfish. Six hundred tons of rock were used to build the artificial reef, made of limestone boulders and prefabricated reef modules that span 2 acres in 6 to 10 feet of water, according to the county. Need to take a break? Cool off in the shade on the beach under the bridge. To the south, you’ll see Peanut Island, another popular snorkeling location accessible by boat or ferry.

Ocean Inlet Park/Lofthus shipwreck6990 N. Ocean Blvd., Boynton Beach

HOURS: Sunrise to sunset

PARKING: Free

INFORMATION: discover.pbcgov.org

Whether you park and walk across Ocean Boulevard or under the road by the jetty, when you see the shoreline rocks along the guarded beach on the south side of the inlet, you’ve found the entry point to another popular snorkeling spot. Suit up with your equipment and wade into the ocean. Sea turtles, nurse sharks, reef fish and corals have all been spotted in the waters. For intermediate to advanced snorkelers who swim beyond the guarded area, be aware of boat traffic.

For those looking for a challenge, the Lofthus shipwreck is 1.1 miles north of the inlet, about 150 yards offshore in about 10 to 18 feet of water, Fine said. Park at Ocean Inlet Park and make the trek along the beach before the high-tide mark. He has seen guitar fish, a nurse shark and spiny lobsters hanging around the wreckage.

“Watch the weather. When the ocean is rough, waves break in shore and the shipwreck remains are not safe to dive,” he said. “Calm ocean and little wind make it a fun place to explore.”

Red Reef Park Snorkel Trail 1400 N. Ocean Blvd., Boca Raton

HOURS: 8 a.m. to 10 p.m.

PARKING: $35 on weekdays and $50 on weekends/holidays (day pass); $3 per hour at metered lot across State Road A1A

INFORMATION: myboca.us

Twenty artificial reefs just offshore and a jetty that extends from the beach into the water make up the snorkel trail. Walk directly into the ocean from the guarded beach and be on the lookout for sergeant major, parrotfish, bar jack and spottail pinfish. Snorkelers also have reported seeing a small reef shark, eels, lobsters, crabs, stingrays, barracuda and a sea turtle on their adventures.

Fourteen of the reefs were installed in late 2021, which extended the snorkeling trail. They are constructed from native limestone boulders sourced from a quarry near Fort Pierce, according to the city.

“Creating an artificial-reef snorkel trail offers residents and visitors another unparalleled outdoor experience in the city,” said recreation services director Greg Stevens. “This unique attraction not only provides a stunning adventure for snorkelers but also fosters a thriving and sustainable habitat for local marine life.”

It’s the ideal location for children to learn to snorkel and get up close with ocean life as well.

“I was able to view beautiful sea life such as turtles, colorful and bigger fish,” said 12-year-old Boca Raton resident Shea Ferris, who snorkels there. “It’s a safe and peaceful place for them, and I was able to enjoy everything around me.”

BROWARD COUNTY

Shipwreck Snorkel TrailDatura Avenue and El Mar Drive, Lauderdale-by-the-Sea

HOURS: Sunrise to sunset

PARKING: Metered parking on side streets or at South Ocean Lot, 4324 State Road A1A

INFORMATION: discoverlbts.com/diving-snorkeling

Just south of Anglin’s Fishing Pier, one of Broward County’s most popular dive and snorkeling areas provides a trail in 10 feet of water and three coral reefs just off the beach.

“Recognized as ‘Florida’s Beach Diving Capital,’ Lauderdale-by-the-Sea’s quaint Florida town is teeming with beautiful marine life in the calm, clear waters less than 100 yards off the white sand beaches, making it one of the best beaches in Florida to go snorkeling or diving with the little ones,” said town spokeswoman Aimee Adler Cooke. “The whole family can enjoy snorkeling, diving, kayaking and paddleboarding right off the beach.”

She said the town is a designated Blue Wave beach, a distinction given by the Clean Beaches Coalition to clean and environmentally responsible beach communities.

The Shipwreck Snorkel Trail, which includes an anchor, five concrete cannons and a ballast pile, was dedicated in 2002 by explorer Jean-Michel Cousteau (Jacques Cousteau’s son), according to the town.

The waters also are home to the SS Copenhagen, a British shipwreck in a Florida Underwater Archaeological Preserve, that is reachable by boat.

Walk from the parking lot to the beach and straight into the ocean at Vista Park in Fort Lauderdale to begin snorkeling. (Carline Jean/South Florida Sun Sentinel)

Vista Park Reef2851 N. Atlantic Blvd., Fort Lauderdale

HOURS: 6 a.m. to 9 p.m.

PARKING: Metered parking lot open from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m.

INFORMATION: parks.fortlauderdale.gov

Just steps from the parking lot at Vista Park, a hidden gem among snorkeling enthusiasts is bustling beneath the blue ocean waters. The reef line starts about 300 feet out from shore and extends past the buoys. The area is the midway point of the reef that runs north and south. More advanced snorkelers can head out to the deeper depths of the reef. What will you see? Hard and soft corals, tropical fish and sea fans. Go early when water clarity is at its best.

Dr. Von D. Mizell-Eula Johnson State Park in Dania Beach offers more than 2 miles of beaches and snorkeling spots offshore. (Mike Stocker/South Florida Sun Sentinel)

Dr. Von D. Mizell-Eula Johnson State Park/Erojacks6503 N. Ocean Drive, Hollywood

HOURS: 8 a.m. to sunset

ADMISSION: $6 per vehicle (up to eight people); $4 for a single-occupant vehicle or motorcycle; $2 for pedestrians, bicyclists, extra passengers, passengers in vehicle with holder of Annual Individual Entrance Pass

INFORMATION: floridastateparks.org/mizell

There are various places to snorkel along the 2.5 miles of beach in the park, but one of the unique areas is the Dania Beach Erojacks, an artificial reef that runs east to west made up of concrete jacks structures. To find it, drive north to parking lot #1, walk across the bridge and to the right, follow the service trail signs in the sand heading south. You will enter the beach area at the spot where the reef is less than 600 feet offshore. The Dania Beach Pier is visible just to the south. Put your dive flag out and look for eels, fish, coral, slipper and spiny lobsters, stingrays, puffer fish and starfish. Keep in mind that the northern end of the state park, including the jetty parking lot, Jetty Pier and beach access, is closed to the public for construction.