Portugal is certainly trending right now.
My Instagram feed, which is heavily populated with travel and food posts (go figure), seems to feature the adorable yellow funiculars of Lisbon and the little pastel de nata cream tarts found all over Portugal on repeat.
Traveling to Portugal, I assumed, would be great — just like my favorite country, Spain, which shares the Iberian Peninsula with the small country.
I could not have been more wrong about Portugal, which has its own distinct and amazing identity, as does the northern portion of Spain, in particular Basque Country.
I learned so much about both of these areas on an epic, 15-day, food-filled, wine-soaked trip with Pioneer Press readers earlier this month.
Here’s a rundown of what we saw and ate and drank on our tour, which was arranged by Collette Travel.
Lisbon
A funicular in Lisbon, Portugal. (Jess Fleming / Pioneer Press)
After a relatively quick flight — from Boston, we were in the air a little more than six hours — we arrived in this lively city ready to explore. We were greeted by our guide and Portugal native Dória Canário, who immediately donned us family, and she our mother for the next two weeks.
Our hotel was on Avenida da Liberdade, aka the Avenue of Liberty, which is the heart of the city, and its most posh shopping street. The avenue is in a valley, and on either side of it are Lisbon’s famously steep hills. You can either take a funicular (yes, those cute yellow ones I was seeing all over Instagram) to the top, or, if you’re feeling brave (and don’t have a heart condition), you can walk to the top.
The first time, my husband and I, along with our neighbors, who joined us on this trip, walked. It took about 10 minutes but was a vigorous workout. We saw lots of people walking down, but we were some of the few braving the uphill climb.
After catching our breath, we were rewarded with an excellent view of the city from Miradouro Sao Pedro de Alcantara, a park at the top of the hill. Later, we would discover a pop-up night market there, filled with adorable wooden huts selling jewelry, mixed drinks, wine, sandwiches and more. But this first day, a Monday, it was quiet with a few street art vendors (we bought a sweet painting of a funicular for just 10 Euro) selling their creations.
Our welcome dinner was at O Nobre, where I had a scrumptious sea bass en croute. It was a wonderful introduction to Portugal’s culinary scene.
Colorful tiles adorn many of the buildings in Lisbon, Portugal. (Jess Fleming / Pioneer Press)
The next morning, it was time to head out on a walking tour of Lisbon, with a local guide offering us information about many aspects of local culture, including all the fabulous tiled buildings. Tiles, first hand-painted and later manufactured, were a result of Moorish influence in the Iberian Peninsula, particularly southern Spain. But manufacturing en masse was perfected by the Portuguese, who also noted that the tiles helped resist fire and regulate the temperature inside buildings. Even the churches and cathedrals here sport intricate tile work, in addition to the gold-plated chapels and altars that the Iberian Peninsula is known for. If only the tiles would last through a Minnesota winter, I’d be adorning my own abode.
Adding to Lisbon’s charm are the patterns in the cobblestone sidewalks, made from limestone and black and white basalt. Though they can be difficult to traverse for those with mobility issues, the beauty of the patterns found beneath your feet makes up for the inconvenience.
We ended our tour at the Praça do Comércio, a giant square on the port of the Tagus River, where we would catch a boat to cruise the river. From there, we had excellent views of the Sanctuary of Christ the King (the iconic, enormous statue of Jesus with his arms outstretched, inspired by the Christ the Redeemer statue in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil), castles, other public buildings and art. It was a perfect, sunny day and some of the vitamin D-deprived in our bunch got sunburned, so here’s your reminder to always wear sunscreen!
That evening, during our free time, we meandered up to São Jorge Castle, which we had been eyeing all day, as it is on a hill overlooking the city.
The city of Lisbon from São Jorge Castle. (Jess Fleming / Pioneer Press)
I can’t recommend enough a dusk/sunset exploration of this amazing place, the beginnings of which date to before Christ. We wandered through its walls, imagining a time when soldiers shot arrows through narrow openings and royals roamed its gardens. Just as the sun was about to set, we grabbed a glass of wine at the terrace restaurant and watched as it bobbed below the skyline.
For dinner, we strolled the Alfama neighborhood below the castle, the city’s oldest and most charming. We ended up in a below-ground place offering Fado music and seafood. We split some fresh, briny shrimp, drank a liter of dry, fruity local wine for $10 and listened to a young woman, baby on her hip, emote via song. I had no idea what she was singing about, and maybe it was the jet lag, but I cried.
Later, after sharing a steak cooked on a stone (excellent) in an alleyway restaurant, our server, Hugo, took us to a little bar where the locals hang out, and we ran into the singer and her baby. I was able to thank her for her beautiful songs, and we both got a little teary-eyed.
Hugo bought us shots of ginjinha, the local cherry liqueur, which made for a bit of a rough morning, but it was worth it.
The next day, we took a short coach ride to the coastal cities of Ericeira, a tiny fishing village now popular with local vacationers and surfers (and also where our guide Canário grew up), and Sintra, a tourist-heavy mountain town known for its elaborate, pastel-colored palaces, the most famous of which was closed during our visit because of a recent storm. We did visit the sprawling National Palace of Sintra, which was occupied by royals pretty much continuously from the early 15th century to the late 19th century. The tile work, chapels and massive kitchen, complete with wood-fired ovens, warming hutches and two giant chimneys, make it worth a visit.
Back in Lisbon for the evening, we wandered back up to the Bairro Alta neighborhood we explored on the first day for cocktails in Pavilhão Chinês, a wacky antique-filled tavern with chamber-like rooms filled to the brim with oddities. It was a great way to say goodbye.
Porto
The circular chapel in Templar Castle in Tomar, Portugal. (Jess Fleming / Pioneer Press)
On our way to Porto, we made a pit stop in Tomar, home of the Templar Castle. Our local guide, João Fiandeiro, who moonlights as an expert on Portuguese history documentaries, gave us an in-depth understanding of the Knights Templar, a military order founded in 1118 to defend pilgrims on their way to Jerusalem.
The knights’ headquarters were in Jerusalem, but the wealthy order had offshoots in many places, including Tomar. The castle is fairly austere from the outside, but filled with ornate Gothic architecture and gilded chapels inside. It’s definitely worth a stop if you’re in the area, but a guide to put everything in context is advisable.
The next day began with a walking tour of the charming city of Porto, situated at the point where the Douro River meets the Atlantic Ocean.
We first visited the city’s excellent market, filled with fruits, vegetables, fish — fresh and of the tinned variety, which is having a giant moment worldwide — meat, olives, spices, cheese and so much more.
I picked up some peri peri pepper and shawarma seasonings and my husband three flavors of tinned sardines.
We also visited Palácio da Bolsa, which our guide explained is more of a civic-use building than an actual palace, but it is just as beautiful. It’s a must-see, if only for the Moorish Revival Arab Room, a ballroom gilded to within an inch of its life in the exotic Moorish style. When we walked through the doorway, our group audibly gasped at its magnificence.
The view of Porto, Portugal, from Gaia, a city across the Douro River. (Jess Fleming / Pioneer Press)
Afterward, we crossed the river to neighboring Gaia on the Dom Luis Bridge, which was designed by a protege of Gustave Eiffel (of Eiffel Tower fame). The ornate arched metal bridge has two decks, one for pedestrians and one for regular traffic.
Port wine at Cálem winery in Gaia, Portugal. (Courtesy of Lisa Antony-Thomas)
In Gaia, we had a tour and tasting of the region’s specialty, port wine, at Cálem winery. We learned about the history of the drink, which is made by interrupting wine’s usual fermentation process by adding grape spirits, which makes it sweeter, and also more potent, than regular wine.
I discovered, to my surprise, that I actually liked the wines, especially Cálem’s ruby port. At our next winery stop, I found a tawny that knocked my socks off.
We took a gondola back to the bridge to get back into Porto where we wandered for hours, taking in the bustle of the city. A highlight of our many stops was a hot dog. Yes, a hot dog. Gazela, a hotspot for tourists and locals alike, serves these little delights (called cachorrinhos) on a crusty roll, smothered in cheese and drizzled with piri piri pepper sauce and cut into little pieces perfect for sharing. It was popular before Anthony Bourdain’s visit there aired in 2017, but now it’s quite likely you’ll have to wait a bit for a table.
Many of the others in the group took an optional excursion to a family’s home in Porto, where they were treated to a home-cooked meal and some wonderful Portuguese hospitality. I have to admit, I was a little jealous after seeing their photos, but I really wanted another night out in the city. We all have to live with our choices, I guess.
In the morning, we set out for a day trip to Braga, a gorgeous city known for having the most churches per capita in Portugal. The city abounds with flower gardens and Baroque architecture, but the highlight was a visit to the Bom Jesus de Monte, a Catholic hilltop sanctuary built in the 1700s, notable for its stunning stairway that climbs more than 350 feet. There are chapels and five fountains, representing the five senses, to be found along the way. You can take a water-powered funicular, the first to be built in Portugal, to the top and walk back down to view all the features.
At the top, though, it’s worth a lunch stop at the sanctuary hotel where we enjoyed traditional Portuguese green soup (it’s mostly potatoes and kale, with a slice of sausage for flavor) and duck rice, which reminded me of Cajun dirty rice, but a little more subtle.
The sun sets in Porto, Portugal. (Jess Fleming / Pioneer Press)
On our last night in Porto, I was on a mission to find bifanas, the pork sandwiches that are famous in Portugal, and we struck gold at Taxca, a little local hangout a few blocks from our hotel. The sliver of a tavern was packed to the brim, but it was worth a little table stalking to score a sandwich, assembled by the two guys working behind the bar, which was simply braised slices of pork on a delicate, crusty roll, dipped in a slightly spicy jus before serving. It was honestly one of the best sandwiches I’ve ever eaten.
Douro Region
Our group of travelers in Pinhão, Portugal. (Courtesy of Dória Canário)
On our way out of town, we stopped in the tiny village Pinhão to take a trip in a traditional wooden boat down the Douro River. The views of the terraced vineyards were spectacular.
Our relaxing stay at the Quinta de Pacheca Wine House Hotel in the heart of the Douro wine region came just at the right time during the tour, when everyone was a little tired from city exploring and ready to wind down.
Travelers had two options — to stay in the well-appointed hotel building, or to be a bit more adventurous and book a wine barrel converted into a hotel room.
The author’s husband, Ed Fleming, in a wine barrel that serves as a hotel room at Quinta de Pacheca in Portugal’s Douro wine region. (Jess Fleming / Pioneer Press)
We chose a wine barrel the first night and a hotel room the second. It worked out great, because although the novelty of sleeping in the adorable barrels — which each have their own balcony, bathroom and working shower — was fun, they were also a tight squeeze with our luggage, which had to be large enough for a two-week tour.
Peacocks — which are quite popular in this region; we saw them at the Castle in Lisbon, too — wandered the grounds outside our barrel and even tried to get inside a few times.
We had a short tour of the winery, which was founded in 1738. I think we were all shocked to learn that they still stomp grapes the old-fashioned way! The winery pays people, mostly locals, to high-step through vats of grapes during harvest season. Apparently, human feet do an extraordinary job of squishing the fruits without breaking the seeds, which can cause bitterness in wine.
The winery, like all those in the stunning Douro region, is required by law to make a certain percentage of port wine. We tried theirs after a tour and preferred their 20-year tawny, which was around $45 a bottle — a pittance compared with what similar-quality ports sell for in the U.S.
That night, a very special welcome dinner in the hotel’s private dining room left us all stuffed, a little buzzed on the winery’s fantastic red, white and port wine, and ready for a great sleep.
A chef lights his wine- and beer-braised beef on fire in during a cooking class at Quinta de Pacheca winery in the Douro wine region of Portugal. (Jess Fleming / Pioneer Press)
After sleeping in, we attended a cooking class at the winery, where the restaurant’s chef showed us how to make Portuguese favorites, including wine- and beer-braised beef, octopus salad, cod salad and leite de creme, a custard topped with a crunchy creme-brulee-type sugar topping. They even let us all use the blow torch!
Many in our group enjoyed a second night of dining at the winery, but we chose to take a taxi across the river to the small town of Peso da Régua, where we had an exceptional dinner at Aneto & Table, in a renovated train station. The squid-ink pasta with mussels that my husband ordered was one of our favorite meals of the trip, and the wines, all made in-house, were wonderful.
Salamanca and La Rioja
Saying goodbye to Portugal was bittersweet, though a night in Salamanca, Spain, a busy university town with gorgeous architecture and a fabulous, typical Spanish plaza, was a great way to do it.
Our hotel, which looked like a palace from the outside, was just across from the late-Gothic Convent of San Esteban, which wasn’t a bad view to behold while sipping wine on the front patio.
Plaza Mayor in Salamanca, Spain. (Jess Fleming / Pioneer Press)
That night, we wandered the city and snacked on patatas bravas and Jamón ibérico, the fabulous ham of Spain, washing it down with plenty of local wine.
Though our stay in Salamanca was too short, we were excited to head to another wine region — La Rioja!
On the way, we stopped in Burgos, a breathtaking city known for its intact medieval architecture and its cathedral, founded in 1221 and finished in 1567. It’s a beautiful church, but interest in it is perhaps outsized because the remains of 11th-century hero El Cid (Rodrigo Díaz de Vivar) rest in the center of the chapel.
Hollywood memorialized the hero in a 1961 movie starring Charlton Heston and Sophia Loren. Because Canário wanted us to be well-informed, we watched “El Cid” on the motorcoach on our way to the city.
For lunch, we got our first taste of pinchos, or pintxos (Basque spelling), which are the northern Spain version of tapas, at Meson Los Herreros. Pinchos are generally smaller than tapas and often served on a slice of baguette. Ordering is organized chaos — you belly up to a bar where the pinchos are displayed behind glass and point to what you want. Somehow at the end, the server knows exactly what you ate and drank and gives you a bill.
We arrived in Logroño, Spain, in the afternoon and set out to find a nibble in what appeared to be a sleepy city. Being afternoon, most in Spain were partaking in siesta time, but we found a little spot just off the main square serving drinks and a few snacks. We ordered piparras, skinny little hot peppers, fried in a tempura batter. They were so good we returned the next day for another bowl. Charmingly, our gin and tonics also came with a little bowl of local gummy candies, sold at a shop a few doors down.
Our welcome dinner was a little further from the main square at a restaurant called La Tavina, which served some delicious dishes, but was more notable for our gregarious server who was happy to egg on those in our group who were enjoying the fabulous wines he was serving.
As we were leaving, I noticed that the street the restaurant is on was coming alive, and I vowed to return the next night.
The interior of Café Iruña in Pamplona, Spain. (Jess Fleming / Pioneer Press)
In the morning, we set out for a fascinating tour of Pamplona, the little city best known for the running of the bulls, which happens in July.
Our local guide offered us a glimpse into a world where bulls are let loose and free to gore or trample those brave enough to participate in the spectacle. We also learned that other local towns also hold the running of the bulls, but Pamplona is the most popular because it was made famous by Ernest Hemingway in his masterpiece “The Sun Also Rises.”
The path the six chosen bulls take is relatively short at 957 yards, and takes an average of two minutes and thirty seconds. The festival is such a source of local income that residents agree to pay for medical expenses for tourists gored in the run, which includes a harrowing 90-degree turn and ends with the bulls’ deaths in a bullfighting ring.
We visited a little private museum full of bullfighting memorabilia, including the ornate uniforms worn by the fighters and the banderillas, or harpoons, used to subdue the bulls in the ring. The proprietor answered our many questions and served us a few lovely pinchos.
After, we had coffee at the ornate, busy Café Iruña, where Hemingway, long a literary hero of mine, began to write “The Sun Also Rises.” I raised my coffee cup to him, knowing full well that his glass would probably be full of rum.
Frank Gehry designed the hotel at Marqués de Riscal Winery in the La Rioja region of Spain. (Jess Fleming / Pioneer Press)
On our way back to the hotel, we stopped at Marques de Riscal winery, which is known for its delicious Rioja wines. It’s a sprawling campus, punctuated by a colorful Frank Gehry building that serves as its hotel. We toured the fermentation and barreling areas with a guide before tasting three fantastic wines.
It was a long day, and the four of us were tempted to find a snack and go to sleep, but I couldn’t stop thinking about that busy little street we glimpsed the night before, so we took some disco naps and headed out.
We were shocked to see that once we reached Calle del Laurel, the streets were packed with people! Apparently, there was a pinchos crawl taking place — a ticket allowed you a snack from many dozens of restaurants lining this street and the next one over.
We didn’t have tickets, but instead stopped where the crowds were, trying whatever appeared to be the specialty. One spot served nothing but hen of the woods mushrooms, perfectly cooked on a flat top. I peeked into another window and saw a chef turning little skewers of meat and sausages over a bed of charcoal. Of course, we had one of each. Each spot we stopped at offered small portions of wine or beer to go with the snack. Most Spaniards stand outside at little tables attached to the eateries, socializing with friends and moving on when their drinks are empty. It was the most fun I’ve had eating dinner since a similar experience in Madrid.
San Sebastian and Bilbao
La Concha bay in San Sebastian, Spain, seen from the amusement park above the city. (Jess Fleming / Pioneer Press)
Though we were sad to say goodbye to Logroño, we were also excited for the last leg of this epic journey — three nights in fabulous San Sebastian, Spain.
The city, built around a nearly circular bay known as La Concha, is a popular vacation destination, with good reason. Pristine beaches stretch the length of La Concha, and waves are big enough to surf.
We started our day with a trip up to the amusement park at the top of Monte Igueldo, the mountain that overlooks the bay, so we could get a bird’s-eye view of the sparkling topography. The amusement park, which is privately owned, charges admission just for the views — the quaint, antique roller coaster and other attractions were not running during our shoulder-season visit.
After, we wandered the charming seaside old town, running into a television show shooting in the middle of a cobblestone street, featuring actress and comedian Anabel Alonso. Alonso, clad in a bright orange outfit, mugged for selfies with tourists and locals alike.
After our tour, the four of us stopped for lunch at La Viña, the restaurant that started the Basque Cheesecake craze in the 1980s (revived by social media in the past few years). We had shatteringly crisp outside, ridiculously tender inside calamari, some fresh artichokes topped with jamón and slices of that creamy, crustless cheesecake, distinguished by its charred surface. We paired the cheesecake with the local txakoli wine, a tart, refreshing white characterized by its slight effervescence.
That night, we walked the promenade of La Concha from nearly beginning to end, about three miles, to get back to old town, where we feasted on more pinchos, refreshing local beer and of course, more txakoli.
The scenery on the Camino of St. James — a walking pilgrimage that is popular with many Catholics — included some farm animals. (Courtesy of Ed Fleming)
The next morning, my feet were pretty sore, so I chose to take the “lazy tour” of the coastal villages of Zumaia and Getaria, but after seeing my husband’s photos of the hike many of the rest of the group took along the Camino of St. James — a walking pilgrimage that is popular with many Catholics — I was regretting my decision. The villages were cute, but the views from above, which did require a fair amount of climbing, according to other travelers, were spectacular.
The beach in Zumaia, Spain, that was used as a backdrop for a few “Game of Thrones” episodes. (Jess Fleming / Pioneer Press)
In Zumaia, we all visited the dazzling beach where a few episodes of “Game of Thrones” were filmed. Long before the TV show made the beach famous, geologists were interested because it features some of the longest continuous rock strata. Geologists can see back in time through the stunning layers, and have even pinpointed the extinction of the dinosaurs in the rock.
On our last full day, we visited the city’s outpost of the Guggenheim museum, again designed by Frank Gehry (who also designed the Weisman Art Museum on the University of Minnesota campus). The building itself is a masterpiece, but it also houses some stunning modern art, including some mind-bending sculptures by American artist Richard Serra.
It was a Sunday, and after the museum visit, we wandered among the crowds of locals out socializing to the square, where we saw children and adults trading soccer cards and just generally being together. Basque culture, explained our guide, dictates that families gather at restaurants or the square on Sundays — everyone from babies on up to grandmothers get dressed up and go out to be among the community.
Basque culture is infinitely fascinating. The strong, proud people managed to keep their language through many conquerors and even a fascist dictator. Now, the vast majority of children learn the language in immersion schools and are fluent in Basque as well as Spanish.
That night, we had an outstanding farewell dinner at Restaurante Urepel. I had the meaty monkfish, but many others enjoyed veal cheeks in a rich gravy. We went back to the hotel, full of all the food, culture and history this spectacular region has to offer. Leaving was bittersweet, but I know I’ll be back.
Obrigata (Portuguese), gracias (Spanish) and eskerrik asko (Basque) to the kind, friendly people of this peninsula, and also to my fellow travelers, for making this an unforgettable trip.
Interested in traveling with Jess?
We have two upcoming trips with space!
First, in the spring of 2026, we are going to Ireland. I love this country dearly and cannot wait to return! We visit Dublin, Kilkenny and Killarney, kiss the Blarney Stone (kissing optional!), view the Ring of Kerry, hike the Cliffs of Moher, wonder at Giant’s Causeway and so much more.
For more information, the trip website is here: gateway.gocollette.com/link/1293829
And in the fall of 2026, we’ll be cruising the Rhine and Moselle rivers through France and Germany, hitting all kinds of historic spots along the way and sleeping and eating in style.
That trip website is here: gateway.gocollette.com/link/1302938
As always, if you have any questions, email me at eat@pioneerpress.com
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