In today’s restaurant culture, between breakfast cafes and neighborhood dinner joints, a good lunch can be hard to come by. But if there’s one place that’s arguably designed around serving lunch, it’s the downtown skyways.

Over the past six months or so, I’ve endeavored to eat at every independent lunch spot in the skyways, and many of them several times over. (I skipped the chains. Sorry to all the Subway-heads out there.)

There are, of course, plenty of worthwhile meals to be had at street-level restaurants and cafes that can be accessed via the skyways (see: 1881 Eating House at Union Depot; HepCat Coffee at Osborn370; the Saint Paul Grill at the Saint Paul Hotel), and longtime skyway staple Pino’s Pizzeria has since moved down to the street level and remains very much worth a visit.

However, this guide focuses specifically on the skyway level, organized by building.

Securian Financial 401 Building

Skyway Grill: No funny business: It’s a grill in the skyway. The wide variety of burgers are all top-notch, as is the gyro, which was one of my favorite lunches of 2025. Two of owner Scott Johnson’s favorite menu items are technically breakfast foods, but he serves breakfast all day, so I think it counts: He recommends The Boss (sausage, egg, jalapeño bacon, pepperjack and chipotle cream cheese on an everything bagel) or The Scoots, an potato-and-egg scramble he used to make at home when his son was younger. Good stuff. (Suite 223; 651-243-4578; skywaygrillanddeli.com)

A pesto chicken panini is held up in front of the sign for Maison Darras, a restaurant in the downtown St. Paul skyways, on June 11, 2025. (Jared Kaufman / Pioneer Press)

Maison Darras: After nearly two decades as a daily presence behind the counter, founding owners Xavier and Dee Darras quietly sold their longtime French lunch spot last month, but the new owners plan to keep things consistent. And lucky for us, because this has been one of our favorite skyway lunch spots for years now. Just on the well-curated panini menu alone, there’s something for everyone; not to mention the salads and soups. (Suite 205; 651-666-7463; facebook.com/maisondarras)

Pizza Deliciosa: Sometimes it’s a pizza or pasta day, you know? And at $3.99 for a quite large slice, it’s one of the best values around, too. (Suite 207; 952-297-0005; pizzadeliciosa.com)

A bowl of pho from Mai Lam Vietnamese Restaurant in the St. Paul skyways is served on Nov. 4, 2025. (Jared Kaufman / Pioneer Press)

Mai Lam: There’s no shortage of Asian options in the St. Paul skyways, and Mai Lam has some staples like General Tso’s chicken, but you should skip to their Vietnamese menu. Go for a banh mi, stir-fried noodles or a bowl of pho: The broth is sweeter and more onion-forward than many others I’ve tried around town at street level; it’s a chilly day go-to. (Suite 203; (651-330-7965; mai-lam.com)

Town Square

Mi Mexico Querido: If there were a prize for the most colorful skyway lunch spot, Mi Mexico Querido would have it in the bag. A brief closure in early 2025 was worrisome, but they’re once again going strong with bold entrees that, I think, rival sit-down Mexican spots. (Suite 202; 651-237-3770; mimexicoquerido.com)

Steven D’s: Sadly we’ve lost more skyway restaurants than we’ve gained recently, so it’s delightful to see a new kid on the block. A couple months ago, Kim Reid and Steve Fiebiger spun off their food truck into a full-fledged lunch counter in the old Cassie’s Deli location, a sizable space in a prime corner. Their menu is classic American (think burgers, grilled chicken, salads and the like) but the real move is the soup selection Fiebiger makes every morning. If vegetable beef barley is on the menu, it’s going to be a good day in my world. (Suite 227; 651-399-7459; facebook.com/StevenDsmn)

Entree options await hungry customers at Ho Fan, a restaurant in the St. Paul skyways, on July 31, 2025. (Jared Kaufman / Pioneer Press)

Ho Fan: When lunchtime hits, this spot is always fast and always friendly. The black bean chicken, with green beans and mushrooms, is a favorite. There are some misses — I found the kung pao chicken a bit too soft and too sweet, and the breading on the orange chicken a bit too tough — but their vegetable entrees don’t skimp, which I love. (Suite 225; 651-347-4895; hofanmn.com)

The signature chicken masala dish from Skyway New Masala in downtown St. Paul is served on July 31, 2025. (Jared Kaufman / Pioneer Press)

Skyway New Masala: This Indian/Middle Eastern spot is tucked away near the now-shuttered bridge to the Alliance Bank Center, so it’s a bit hard to find and it’s on the pricier side for skyway lunches, but the hefty portion size makes it worth both the time and money. Their signature dish, the tomato-roasted chicken masala, is delightfully spicy. Oh, and I would buy their cilantro chutney by the bottle. (Suite 216)

U.S. Bank Center

Kitchen 601: Every time I’ve eaten here, the dining room is busier than every other skyway restaurant and business I pass on the walk over. This is inexplicable to me; my experiences here have consistently been characterized by bland food on unnervingly greasy plates, but it is one of the skyway’s most comfortable, airy lunch spots with a wide-ranging menu that’s ideal for groups. (Suite 220; 651-245-9171; kitchen601.com)

Bambú: Tragically, this Asian spot is also tucked in a back hallway en route to the now-abandoned Alliance Bank Center, so what was once a central thoroughfare is now desolate. For this reason, as I have learned, you should order something from the menu board on the wall rather than one of the pre-prepared entrees held hot under the glass; the menu is more creative, anyway. (Suite 285; 651-602-7960; bambuonline.com)

Wells Fargo Place

A meal from Lee’s Express in the downtown St. Paul skyways is served Oct. 30, 2025. (Jared Kaufman / Pioneer Press)

Lee’s Express: Arguably the most hidden-gem of all the hidden gems. You’ll have to head up the escalators toward the third-floor Children’s Museum skyway for some of the best classic beef and broccoli around. The fried rice has a nice smoky edge, too. The hunt is worthwhile. (Suite 318; 651-493-3341; leesexpress.square.site)

First National Bank Building

Catrina’s: Build your own tacos, burrito, bowl, quesadilla or torta sandwich; I personally love the smoky chicken tinga, but you do you. Keep an eye out for their rotating daily specials, too; those enchiladas rock. (Suite 233; 651-330-2418; catrinasgrill.com/skyway)

Bonus: Pioneer Endicott

Legacy Chocolates: The downtown chocolatier makes delightful chocolate- and coffee-based beverages and great pastries. I know this guide focuses on lunch spots, so maybe this is more of a breakfast or dessert option, but — hey, I can eat chocolate for lunch! Who are you, my mother? (Suite 229; 651-340-5252; legacychocolates.com)

More from Double-Decker Downtown

Read our deep dive into the past, present and future lives of the St. Paul skyways, and explore more profiles of skyway businesses:

After 43 years, Paul Hartquist’s personal service keeps skyway jewelry store shining

At Skyway Grill, owner Scott Johnson feeds everyone

Blue Hummingbird Woman brings native culture and wellness to the skyways

Paper is hotter than ever at skyway print shop Cedar Printing

At skyway barbershop, Mr. B aims to empower through haircuts

Through clothing, skyway tailor Patricia Caldwell aims to beautify the world

Cycling Museum of Minnesota brings over a century of two-wheeled history to the skyway

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Especially in an increasingly digital age, printed materials often fall to the bottom of people’s to-do lists, said Tyler Hjeltness, the owner of Cedar Printing, a skyway print shop in Securian Financial’s 401 Building.

But then, suddenly, a major event or deadline or project presentation is a few days away, and you’ve forgotten to order your programs or marketing brochures or public signage.

“That’s part of our secret to success, is we cater to emergencies,” Hjeltness said. “Five to seven days is a typical lead time for a shop like ours, but we turn ‘em around tight, and we do it with a smile. It makes an impression on people when you can get the impossible done for them when at every other turn they’re told no.”

Hjeltness started working for Cedar Printing’s previous owner, Andy Flamm, in 2016 and bought the now-43-year-old business in 2019. Since then, Hjeltness has expanded the shop’s focus from primarily everyday business printing — think business cards, letterhead, invoices — to additionally incorporate more colorful marketing materials, wide-format banners and storefront graphics.

And interestingly, Hjeltness said he’s seeing a resurgence in how customers value printed objects, to the extent that the company is busier than ever. Currently, Hjeltness and his team are juggling about 60 active projects in various stages, from just-ordered to ready for pickup, and ranging in price from about $40 to several thousand.

“If you get a nice physical piece that somebody really obviously put some time and effort into, it seems to stand out,” he said. “There are things that digital media will never achieve. This is a cliche, but you can’t wrap a candy bar in a PDF.”

On an autumn Thursday afternoon, production manager Justin Kron completed final quality checks on an order of about 700 oversized postcards for a Minneapolis nonprofit. After they’re printed and cut to the right dimensions, he’ll apply a postage stamp to each one by hand.

“A lot of people want their stuff physically stamped because it shows someone cared enough to physically handle it,” Hjeltness said. “It wasn’t just a machine that just spit out a billion things and you’re just one in a billion.”

Meanwhile, print specialist Armand Clark kept an eye on a huge glossy banner for an upcoming event at the Minnesota Children’s Museum that was slowly emerging from a large-format printer. That morning, Minnesota Public Radio “Morning Edition” host Cathy Wurzer swung by to pick up an order. Recently, a renewable energy company based in Chicago hired Cedar Printing to produce and send a multi-state marketing push. Even the signage at the nearby Skyway Grill came out of Hjeltness’ shop.

“So we can be hyperlocal and also national,” Hjeltness said.

Running a print shop requires plenty of heavy, noisy machinery. The guillotine-style paper cutter in the corner weighs about as much as a sedan. An industrial paper folding machine is so loud when it’s running that Hjeltness keeps it in its own small room to reduce how disruptive it would be. So it’s not uncommon, he said, for print shops to be located in industrial parts of town or in out-of-the-way warehouses.

But for him, staying in the skyways is non-negotiable.

“I could technically run this out of a garage somewhere for cheaper rent, but no,” he said. “Being seen and being part of the community is what makes this enjoyable, honestly.”

More from Double-Decker Downtown

Read our deep dive into the past, present and future lives of the St. Paul skyways, and explore more profiles of skyway businesses:

After 43 years, Paul Hartquist’s personal service keeps skyway jewelry store shining
At Skyway Grill, owner Scott Johnson feeds everyone
Blue Hummingbird Woman brings native culture and wellness to the skyways
At skyway barbershop, Mr. B aims to empower through haircuts
Through clothing, skyway tailor Patricia Caldwell aims to beautify the world
Cycling Museum of Minnesota brings over a century of two-wheeled history to the skyway
Your guide to every lunch spot in the St. Paul skyways

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When Juston Anderson was growing up, the bus stop was right in front of his house. Kids from around the neighborhood would ride their bikes over, and while they waited for the bus, they’d tinker with the mechanics.

“When I learned how to ride a bike, it didn’t take me long to figure out that having a bike equals freedom,” Anderson said. “Later, I was going to school in Winona and I thought, when I graduate and get a job, I’m going to buy a historical bike. And then it just never stopped.”

Anderson amassed a significant enough personal collection that, in 2013, he exhibited some of his antique bikes at the State Fair. It caught the attention of the owners of Recovery Bike Shop in Minneapolis, who invited him to bring the exhibit to the second floor of their shop. Early the next year, the nonprofit Cycling Museum of Minnesota was officially born.

After a couple moves throughout the years, the museum opened an exhibition space in the St. Paul skyways, within Securian Financial’s 401 Building, with support from the Downtown Alliance’s Grow Downtown program. Because the museum is still a small, volunteer-run operation, the skyway exhibition space is currently open by appointment only.

 

A variety of historical bicycles are exhibited in the front window displays of the Cycling Museum of Minnesota in the St. Paul skyways on Nov. 4, 2025. (Jared Kaufman / Pioneer Press)

Today, the museum’s collection consists of more than 100 bicycles, including significant designs from the 19th and early 20th centuries. The collection also places a particular emphasis on Minnesota-made bikes and cycling artifacts, including vintage bike license plates and race medals.

Walking through the museum’s collection with Anderson, both his love of bicycles and his encyclopedic knowledge of cycling history immediately become clear.

The oldest bicycles in the collection are high-wheel bikes, sometimes called penny-farthings, from the 1880s. These bikes have what, to modern riders, appears to be a comically large front wheel, but Anderson explained its practical purpose: Because modern gear-and-chain drivetrain systems had not yet been invented, a larger wheel circumference meant more distance traveled with one pump of the pedal.

However, because of the way the seat was attached directly over the large wheel, it was unsettingly easy to accidentally take a “header,” or spin over the large front wheel and smash into the ground head-first, Anderson said. So when the modern bicycle design came around — with two equally sized wheels and a seat situated between them — it was aptly called a “safety bicycle.”

From there, he explained, various bells and whistles were added, literally and figuratively. Real noise-making devices were a crucial safety feature, so bikes would not spook nearby horses. Other add-ons that can be seen on bikes in the museum’s collection include acetylene gas headlamps, map cases, tool-carrying attachments and, for ladies’ bicycles, a skirt guard so the fabric would not become tangled in the wheel spokes.

The museum’s ethos, Anderson said, is preservation, not restoration. To illustrate this point, he noted some very faint ornate stenciled decoration along the frame of a bike from the early 20th century.

“When you strip it down, take off all the paint, you are getting rid of a lot of the history of the bike,” he said. “Any type of corrosion, we want to get that stopped. But if we were to restore this bike and repaint it, you would lose the original stenciling. I’m not into restoring bikes, because it just eliminates all the history that the bike had.”

“Every bike tells a story as it is,” he said.

Information about the museum, including contact information to set up a group tour of the exhibition space, can be found online at www.cmm.bike.

More from Double-Decker Downtown

Read our deep dive into the past, present and future lives of the St. Paul skyways, and explore more profiles of skyway businesses:

After 43 years, Paul Hartquist’s personal service keeps skyway jewelry store shining

At Skyway Grill, owner Scott Johnson feeds everyone

Blue Hummingbird Woman brings native culture and wellness to the skyways

Paper is hotter than ever at skyway print shop Cedar Printing

At skyway barbershop, Mr. B aims to empower through haircuts

Through clothing, skyway tailor Patricia Caldwell aims to beautify the world

Your guide to every lunch spot in the St. Paul skyways

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When you’ve been in the jewelry business as long as Paul Hartquist has, you end up making a lot of couples’ engagement rings. And then engagement rings for the children of those couples.

And when you’ve been in the jewelry business as long as Paul Hartquist has — which, to be clear, is more than 43 years — you realize it’s not the rings themselves that are important but the people wearing them.

“It’s not so much doing the work, working on rings; I burned out on that long ago,” he said. “I’m helping people with jewelry that I met literally 40-plus years ago. …I’ve met a lot of wonderful people. Many of my customers have become friends.”

After apprenticing for seven years under Robert Moeller at his eponymous jewelry shop in Highland Park, Hartquist opened his own shop in what would become the Alliance Bank Center in 1989. When the building abruptly closed this spring, with tenants initially given just 48 hours to vacate, Hartquist hopped across the skyway to the Town Square building.

It was not ideal timing. Hartquist plans to retire at age 70, in a few years. He wasn’t interested in being forced to shutter his business before that point — especially not on such short notice — but he also doesn’t plan to be working for as many more years as it would take to reestablish himself sustainably elsewhere.

“It was a little chaotic and disturbing at first, but I landed on my feet,” he said. “If I was 10 or 20 years younger, I probably would have moved out into the suburbs.”

In Hartquist’s early days, the flow of people through the skyways was constant. But it’s been a steady decline since then, he said. Among his concerns: Too much street-level parking has been removed to make way for bike paths and the light rail. Some large companies have moved their headquarters out of downtown. Foot traffic is down substantially since the pandemic.

Hartquist is of two minds about the state of the skyway system today. On the one hand, his shop is tucked away at the end of a hallway, the final storefront before a “condemned” sign blocks what would’ve been the bridge to his old stomping grounds in the Alliance Bank building.

“Being here, it’s difficult for customers to access me,” he said. “They have to go out of their way; they have to want to see me.”

On the other hand, his business model is no longer one that relies on passersby. Decades ago, he said, women might stop in during their lunch hour and buy a necklace or a pair of earrings. But gold prices have jumped substantially over the years and people wear less jewelry than they once did, he said.

So now, he relies more on repeat customers and personal referrals than the daily walk-in business that sustains — or is unable to sustain — lunch counters and cafes around the skyways.

“Let’s say someone wants something done for a ring,” he said. “If they only come into work one day a week, well, that’s fine. They’ll come see me that one day. But if you’re in a food court, something like that, they need to sell food every day of the week in order to survive. So a lot of the vendors are suffering.”

More from Double-Decker Downtown

Read our deep dive into the past, present and future lives of the St. Paul skyways, and explore more profiles of skyway businesses:

At Skyway Grill, owner Scott Johnson feeds everyone

Blue Hummingbird Woman brings native culture and wellness to the skyways

Paper is hotter than ever at skyway print shop Cedar Printing

At skyway barbershop, Mr. B aims to empower through haircuts

Through clothing, skyway tailor Patricia Caldwell aims to beautify the world

Cycling Museum of Minnesota brings over a century of two-wheeled history to the skyway

Your guide to every lunch spot in the St. Paul skyways

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MN Supreme Court reopens Keith Ellison’s wage theft case against Madison Equities

Crackdown on social service providers leaves some without housing assistance