At new St. Paul Andiamo, fresh, comforting Italian is on the menu

In Italian, andiamo means “let’s go!”

That’s pretty much what I said to a group of girlfriends on a recent weeknight — all of whom gleefully signed up for a night full of pasta, red wine and other Italian delights at the new St. Paul version of longtime suburban favorite Andiamo.

Even though I haven’t visited a certain wildly popular Italian-American chain restaurant in years, Andiamo, in the former Buffalo Wild Wings spot, definitely gives off “When you’re here, you’re family” vibes, right down to the cheesy Italian music piped into the dining room.

(The restaurant also offers all-you-can-eat salad and soup during the lunch hour for a very reasonable $12. And yes, they have breadsticks.)

Happily, though, the food here is fresh, scratch-made, perfect for sharing and affordable.

Short ribs at Andiamo’s new St. Paul location. (Jess Fleming / Pioneer Press)

Prosciutto, pear and gorgonzola pizza at Andiamo’s new St. Paul location. (Jess Fleming / Pioneer Press)

The chopped salad at Andiamo’s new St. Paul location. (Jess Fleming / Pioneer Press)

Chicken Andiamo at Andiamo’s new St. Paul location. (Jess Fleming / Pioneer Press)

Lasagna Bolognese at Andiamo’s new St. Paul location. (Jess Fleming / Pioneer Press)

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Our group of five started with a chopped salad, and we immediately appreciated the care with which the components were prepared — all uniformly chopped, fresh and lightly dressed with a tasty vinaigrette.

Dinner comes with a bread basket, too, which features fresh, crusty Tuscan bread or, you guessed it, breadsticks.

The smattering of other dishes we tried were all satisfying and well-executed, from a lovely, creamy spaghetti carbonara, studded with crisp, smoky bacon pieces and peas to tender short ribs swimming in a bright tomato sauce.

In between, there was a decadent lasagna bolognese that disappeared so fast I barely got a bite, a pizza topped with pears, prosciutto and gorgonzola and chicken Andiamo, which consisted of tender breast meat seared and topped with a lemon butter sauce, prosciutto, capers and artichokes.

The space is large and clean, with an attractive, square bar front and center, and there are a few Italian wines on their list along with a full bar. Basically, it’s a great place for families and groups, and while the food isn’t breaking any new ground, it is as comforting as a warm hug.

Small Bites are first glances — not intended as definitive reviews — of new or changed restaurants.