Lest you think that restaurants are out of the woods because of the decrease in federal troops, I talked to one owner this week who is buying groceries for three employees and hasn’t paid themselves since November.
You don’t have to be particularly good at math to understand that this is not sustainable. And that eatery’s story is repeated throughout the Twin Cities.
So, if you want our fantastic culinary scene to survive, you have an assignment: Go out for a meal. Enjoy yourself. Tip generously. That’s it! Easy, right?
I’m still trying to support immigrant-owned restaurants, but please know that nearly every restaurant owner I have talked to recently is a few bad weeks away from closure. So follow your cravings. It just so happens that many of mine tend to lead me toward global cuisine.
Coconut Thai
Thai Basil stir fry at Coconut Thai on St. Paul’s Grand Avenue. (Jess Fleming / Pioneer Press)
It had been a while since I visited this Grand Avenue spot, so some friends and I stopped in on a recent weeknight.
The pretty, modern dining room was only about half full, but a steady stream of people came in to pick up takeout, which is another great way to support restaurants right now.
Like King and I in Mendota Heights, Coconut Thai boasts a matriarchal chef who grew up in Thailand. And like at King and I, the food here is incredibly fresh and flavorful.
We shared a smattering of dishes, from chewy-crisp gyoza and fried tofu to three tasty main dishes.
The drunken noodles, which were described as having a “distinct spiciness,” were not spicy at all, but the deeply umami, slightly sweet sauce sure was tasty. If you like spice, I’d recommend asking for more.
The masaman curry was pretty classic — potatoes and meat bathed in a coconutty red curry. It’s up there with others I’ve tried in the cities and I’d totally order it again.
Finally, we ordered the Thai basil stir fry to add some roughage (my grandma used this word frequently and it cracks me up) to our meal. Turns out, it was the dish we liked the most! Tons of bright, fresh veggies in a mildly spicy, salty and floral sauce kept our forks coming back for more.
A decent wine list made this girlfriend-dinner approved, too.
Coconut Thai: 720 Grand Ave., St. Paul; 651-348-7250; coconutthaimn.com
Taco n Madre
The Taco n Madre taco at Taco n Madre on St. Paul’s West Side. (Jess Fleming / Pioneer Press)
I’m embarrassed to admit I hadn’t been to this Mexican restaurant, in the former Jerabek’s Bakery location on the West Side, until a few weeks ago.
I have friends who live a few blocks away, so I suggested it for a recent dinner. It did not disappoint.
The funniest friend in our group thought it essential that we order the restaurant’s signature taco, the Taco n Madre, described as a 12-inch flour hard-shell taco, with your choice of meat, French fries, cheese, lettuce, pico de gallo and chipotle sauce.
This thing is comically large, so my friend definitely got the laughs he craves, as well as a pretty delicious dinner (and lunch the next day, and maybe dinner again). The crisp, flaky tortilla is fried in-house, and the inside is as described. As entertaining as it was to watch my friend try, picking this thing up and eating it like a regular taco is pretty difficult.
Another friend was very happy with her birria and fish tacos, and we loved that you can order them a la carte, making it easy to try a few kinds.
I’m almost never in a burrito mood, but the Burrito Bandera sounded really good to me. It’s also a giant thing, filled black beans, lettuce, pico, sour cream, cheese, guacamole and meat. It’s topped with white queso, green and red sauce, representing the colors of the Mexican flag, and is adorably served on a heart-shaped plate. I managed to eat about half of it, and that was a feat.
As positive as our experience at Taco n Madre was, there was also a bit of a dark cloud hanging over the whole thing. We had to knock at the locked door to be let in. And beyond the wall of the main dining room, the second dining area has been turned into a giant food pantry, with neighbors bringing everything from toilet paper to beans to ramen to help feed people who are afraid to leave their homes. I hope someday soon I can return and it’ll just be a really great taco place.
Taco n Madre: 63 Winifred St., St. Paul; 651-340-4614; taconmadremn.com
Rosedale Burger Dive
Left to right, the Peppero, Dilla and Ollie martinis at Burger Dive in Rosedale Center. (Jess Fleming / Pioneer Press)
Ever since watching the “Parks and Recreation” episode where the ladies on the show celebrate Galentine’s Day, I have wanted to get my gal pals together to raise a glass.
Unfortunately, it never seems to work out for me.
But this year, I happened to see that the new Burger Dive location in Rosedale Center had some briny martini specials, and my martini-loving ladies could not say no!
It was our first time at this Burger Dive, and we were surprised by how huge the space, which has been outfitted with wood paneling and beer signs to look like a dive bar, was. The bar is enormous, too, if you’re the type who likes to belly up, and there’s an old-school pull-tab booth, which was manned (womanned?) by someone named Lucille the night we were there. I mean, it doesn’t get more authentic than that.
Your average ladies might be interested in chocolate martinis or cosmos, but we are dirty martini, extra olives, fans, and these martinis fit the bill. There are three options: the Dilla, made with house pickles and vodka; the Peppero, made with Covalle Tomato Water Gin, vodka, vermouth, brine and Calabrian chili; and the Ollie, a pretty classic dirty martini.
All three of them were excellent, though the clear winner in my eyes was the spicy, umami Peppero, so much so that I’m trying to find that tomato water gin.
Since we were there, we had some burgers for dinner, and they were as delicious as the burgers at their other locations.
If you are in the area, especially to see a movie at the AMC theater that’s just steps away, I recommend a stop for a burger and a martini, or whatever drink floats your boat. The beer selection is great, and there are lots of nonalcoholic options, too.
Rosedale Burger Dive: 1595 Minnesota 36, Roseville; 651-340-2389; burgerdivemn.com
How to help
Looking for a way to help restaurants besides eating out? Some local industry insiders have launched the Salt Cure Restaurant Recovery Fund (thesaltcurefund.org) to help struggling eateries.
The fund helps cover things like payroll and lease payments and prioritizes restaurants that don’t have a digital footprint or access to fundraising support.
It’s administered by the Minneapolis Foundation, which has 110 years of experience in getting resources to those who need it most.
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