It’s a funny time of year to be writing to you about fast and simple cooking. Is this not the moment for luxury, pageantry and scale, for projects like tamales or lumpia that require a gathering of home cooks and many hands; or Caribbean black cake, with its jeweled dried and candied fruit soaked for up to a year; or a perfect prime rib roast, a grand and true statement piece?
In that spirit, I’ve picked five recipes for you that are fancy but still weeknight-easy, ideal for this week and anytime you want to take dinner up a notch.
1. Chile Crisp and Honey Roasted Salmon
Chile crisp and honey roasted salmon. Food Stylist: Barrett Washburne. (David Malosh/The New York Times)
Roasting a large salmon fillet that’s been covered with a sweet and spicy paste of chile crisp, mayonnaise and honey makes for a dish that’s worthy of a celebration, but also can make a weeknight feel like a special occasion. Use your favorite jar of chile crisp or make your own. Using one large piece of salmon (rather than several smaller fillets) makes it easier to spread the paste over the fish, helps it bake more evenly, and makes for a dramatic presentation. For a lighter meal, serve with a simple arugula salad; or round it out with a side of roasted potatoes or rice.
By Naz Deravian
Yield: 6 servings
Total time: 30 minutes
INGREDIENTS
1 (2-pound) salmon fillet (skin on or off), preferably center cut
Salt and pepper
1/4 cup mayonnaise
2 tablespoons chile crisp
2 tablespoons honey
Grated zest from 1 medium lemon
DIRECTIONS
1. Heat oven to 375 degrees with the rack set in the center position.
2. Place the salmon in a baking dish that fits the salmon snugly (about 8 by 12 inches or 9 by 13 inches) and season the salmon on both sides with salt and pepper. Place the salmon skin-side down (if it has a skin) and set aside.
3. In a small bowl, combine the mayonnaise, chile crisp, honey and lemon zest. Taste the mixture and add more chile crisp to taste, or honey to balance the heat. Spread the mayonnaise mixture evenly on top of the salmon.
4. Place the salmon in the oven and bake until the thickest part of the salmon flakes easily when tested with a paring knife and the topping is bubbling a little along the edges, 15 to 25 minutes, depending on the thickness of the salmon. Spoon any glaze that has run off back onto the salmon and serve.
2. Garlicky Beef Tenderloin With Orange Horseradish Sauce
The allure of beef tenderloin pulls hard. When properly cooked until the surface is seared to a glistening mahogany and the center is tender and running with beefy juices, it is one of the most regal, festive and delectable things a cook can serve. As a finishing touch, serve the meat with a pungent, creamy horseradish sauce that is shockingly easy to prepare.
By Melissa Clark
Yield: 8 to 10 servings
Total time: 40 minutes
INGREDIENTS
(4-pound) beef tenderloin
1 tablespoon kosher salt, more to taste
1 teaspoon black pepper, more to taste
1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary
1 fat garlic clove, coarsely chopped
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 cups crème fraîche
1/4 cup white horseradish
Grated zest of half an orange
DIRECTIONS
1. Season the tenderloin all over with the salt, pepper, rosemary and garlic. Cover the meat and refrigerate for at least two hours and preferably overnight. Let it come to room temperature for 1 hour before roasting.
2. Heat oven to 450 degrees. Wipe off as much garlic as possible. (It tends to burn.)
3. In a large, ovenproof skillet over high heat, heat the oil. Add the meat and thoroughly brown all over, 4 to 5 minutes per side. (If your skillet isn’t large enough, cut the meat in half.)
4. Place the skillet on the oven’s middle rack and roast until an instant-read thermometer shows 120 degrees (for rare), 10 to 20 minutes. Let the meat rest for 10 minutes before carving.
5. In a small bowl, whisk the crème fraîche, horseradish and orange zest. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve alongside the tenderloin.
3. Shrimp Pasta
Shrimp pasta. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews. (Christopher Testani/The New York Times)
Consider this the shrimp version of vongole rosso, the classic Italian dish of clams tossed with pasta, tomatoes, garlic and white wine. Swapping the shellfish makes for an easy weeknight dinner. The shrimp’s briny sweetness is the star here, and cherry or grape tomatoes add a burst of acidity as well as a pop of color. Any long pasta shape will work well — just be sure to cook the noodles to al dente to give the dish great texture. Serve with the rest of the white wine and a simple green salad.
By Lidey Heuck
Yield: 4 to 6 servings
Total time: 45 minutes
INGREDIENTS
Kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal)
1 pound long pasta, such as linguine, fettuccine or spaghetti
1 pound large peeled and deveined shrimp (18 to 20 count), tails on or off
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 cup thinly sliced garlic (about 7 cloves)
2 pints cherry or grape tomatoes
1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper, plus more to taste
1/2 cup dry white wine, such as Pinot Grigio
1/3 cup chopped fresh parsley, plus more for serving
Lemon zest, for serving
DIRECTIONS
1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook according to the package instructions until al dente. Scoop out 1/2 cup of the cooking water, then drain the pasta in a colander and return it to the pot.
2. Meanwhile, pat the shrimp dry with a paper towel and season with 1/2 teaspoon salt. In a large (12-inch) skillet, heat the butter and olive oil over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook until lightly golden, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes, crushed red pepper and 1 teaspoon salt; cook, stirring occasionally, until most of the tomatoes have burst, 6 to 8 minutes.
3. Add the wine and reserved pasta water, bring to a simmer and cook for 2 minutes, until slightly reduced. Stir in the shrimp and cook until they are just starting to turn opaque, about 3 minutes. Pour the sauce and the shrimp over the pasta and toss well. Add the parsley and toss again.
4. Transfer the pasta to bowls. Top with the lemon zest and more parsley. Sprinkle on more crushed red pepper, if desired. Serve immediately.
4. Butter Paneer
Butter paneer. Food Stylist: Cyd Raftus McDowell. (Armando Rafael/The New York Times)
Paneer cubes are cooked in three types of fat here: ghee, butter and cashew butter for a luxurious vegetarian main. Traditionally, roasted and crushed cashews are puréed with cooked onions and tomatoes, but this version skips the hassle and achieves the same creamy, nutty richness. Red chile and fresh Thai green chiles layer in a touch of heat.
By Zainab Shah
Yield: 4 servings
Total time: 30 minutes
INGREDIENTS
1 1/2 pounds paneer, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
2 tablespoons ghee or vegetable, canola or other neutral oil
1 teaspoon freshly grated ginger or ginger paste
1 teaspoon freshly grated garlic or garlic paste
1 small white onion, finely chopped
1 teaspoon Kashmiri red chile powder
1 teaspoon garam masala
1 (14-ounce) can of crushed tomatoes, or 6 plum tomatoes, chopped
2 tablespoons cashew butter
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 Thai green chiles, chopped (optional)
1 tablespoon chopped cilantro (optional)
Rice or roti, for serving
DIRECTIONS
1. If using store-bought paneer, soak the cheese in hot tap water for 10 minutes; drain.
2. In a medium pot, heat ghee on high until it melts, 30 to 90 seconds. Stir in ginger and garlic and cook until the smell of raw garlic dissipates, about 30 seconds. Add onion and continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until onion is translucent, 5 to 7 minutes.
3. Add chile powder and half of the garam masala and cook until deliciously fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in the tomatoes and cashew butter. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes start to break down, 5 to 7 minutes.
4. Adjust heat to medium and add the butter. Cook until butter has melted into the mixture, about 30 seconds. Stir in 1 teaspoon salt and add water if a thinner sauce is desired. Taste and add more salt if necessary. Stir in the paneer cubes. Simmer for 5 minutes on low, until the flavors have melded. Top with the rest of the garam masala and the green chiles and cilantro, if using. Serve with rice or roti.
5. Chicken au Poivre
This playful take on steak au poivre features chicken thighs that are pan-fried until golden then simmered in a peppery pan sauce until tender and juicy. The caramelized browned bits left on the bottom of the skillet from searing the chicken add deeper flavor to the sauce. Although cognac is often used in classic au poivre, there is no booze in this version. Instead, a kick of lemon juice brightens the rich, velvety sauce. Serve the chicken over egg noodles or with crusty bread to sop up all that sauce. Tuck any leftovers into sandwich rolls with lettuce and tomato, or chop and toss with pasta and grated Parmesan for a quick lunch.
By Kay Chun
Yield: 4 servings
Total time: 45 minutes
INGREDIENTS
1 tablespoon whole black peppercorns
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
8 boneless, skinless chicken thighs (about 2 pounds)
Salt
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons minced shallot
1 cup low-sodium chicken broth
1/2 cup heavy cream
3 thyme sprigs
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley, plus more for garnishing
Crusty bread or egg noodles (optional), for serving
DIRECTIONS
1. Place peppercorns in a small resealable bag. Using a mallet or the bottom of a saucepan, gently crush the peppercorns until coarsely cracked. (Alternatively, you can use a mortar and pestle.) Set aside.
2. In a 12-inch cast-iron or other heavy skillet, heat oil over medium. Season chicken with salt. In two batches, sear chicken until light golden all over, about 5 minutes per batch. Transfer to a plate. Pour off any remaining oil in the skillet.
3. Add butter and shallot to the skillet and cook, stirring, until butter is melted and shallot is softened, 1 minute. Add broth, heavy cream, thyme sprigs and cracked peppercorns and mix well, stirring to lift up any browned bits on the bottom of the pan.
4. Add chicken (and any accumulated juices), bring to a simmer and cook, turning and basting occasionally with the sauce, until cooked through and an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the thigh registers 165 degrees, 6 to 8 minutes.
5. Divide chicken among 4 serving plates and discard thyme.
6. Add lemon juice to the skillet and stir until sauce is slightly thickened, about 2 minutes. Season with salt and stir in parsley.
7. Spoon the sauce over the chicken and garnish with more parsley. Serve with crusty bread or egg noodles, if desired.
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